Top Travel Tips-Downloadable E-Book

From reading my many posts, you've probably come away with some useful travel tips, including my secret packing tips, how to stay healthy on the road, and the best sites in my fave travel destinations. Since I'm on the road 90+ days a year, I've accumulated tips that help make my travels safe, healthy, efficient and worry-free. But now you can read travel tips from not just me but also over 150 other top travel bloggers? We've all contributed some of our top travel tips to a downloadable e-book. Aside from picking up a wealth of practical information, you'll be able to contribute to a charitable cause. That's because $1 from each sale goes to Charity: Water where as little as $20 is enough to help one person get clean drinking water for 20 years. Click on the Best Travel Tips icon on the right to download this e-book.

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Touring Civil Rights Sites

The 1950s and 1960s aren't so distant in our history as a nation. But when I recently told some colleagues that I was visiting civil rights national parks down south, they had no idea what I was talking about. After all, they asked, what do national parks have to do with civil rights? The National Park Service not only protects the grand scenic vistas that we typically associate them with, but also sites that need to be preserved because they are key in our American identity. And the civil rights sites in Atlanta and Alabama fall into this category. Here is what I found:

1. You could easily spend the day at the Martin Luther King Historic Site in downtown Atlanta. Probably, one of the most memorable parts of the visit was listening to his speeches in the half-hour video in the Visitor's Center as well as standing not far from the original mule-drawn wagon that transported his casket during the funeral. From there, you can gaze all the way to the King Center across the street where his tomb and that of his wife, Coretta Scott King, sit side by side above a reflecting pool.

The site also has a petite rose garden where you can see peace poems written by children. Make sure you have time to tour the adjacent preservation district in this neighborhood, Sweet Auburn that was once home to a very well-to-do African American population. One of the Queen Anne style houses is the birth home of MLK -- it's definitely worth making a reservation for the visit. You'll be able to roam from room to room and hear stories of what board games MLK liked to play in the living room -- it was Monopoly; learn that adults and children sat and talked together at meal time, something that was unusual at that time; and see MLK's favorite room, the kitchen, where he would sit and eat his grandmother's home cooking.


2. Anyone who loves airplanes will delight in the Tuskegee Airmen National Historic Site that honors the all-Black squadrons of Airmen who were active in World War II. At this time, only Hangar 1 is open, but there's a wealth of artifacts here to keep you occupied. And this place isn't just for adults. Kids will enjoy trying to fold a silk parachute into a pack.

There are plenty of audio displays to listen to, mostly of Airmen or their instructors -- something that really makes the place come alive. You'll hear how the instructors put the men through a closet cockpit flight simulator so that they could learn to fly by instruments only. As one instructor said, "I can introduce rough air and make him pretty miserable...You can crack that thing and he [pilot] just steps out."

3. The Selma to Montgomery National Historic Trail runs from Montgomery, Alabama to Selma with plenty of civil rights sites in both cities as well as a museum (The Lowndes County Voting Rights Trail Interpretive Center) in the middle and signs to other sites along the way. The 54-mile trail honors the African-Americans who sought their civil rights and, after two unsuccessful tries -- the first being the infamous Bloody Sunday -- finally made it to Montgomery to present their grievances to Governor George Wallace. Montgomery makes a good stop-over city to do the entire trail. And though the trail can be done in a day, to truly get the most out of it, you should spend a day doing all the sights just in Montgomery, and reserve an additional day to doing the Interpretive Center and the sites in Selma.


The woman who's most emblematic of civil rights movement may very well be Rosa Parks, who refused to give up her seat to a white person on a Montgomery bus. And, though most of us may think we know the story, the museum that pays tribute to her is a must-see. Not only does it provide a dramatic re-enactment of the bus incident that puts you right there, but the rest of the museum provides plenty of details that I know I didn't learn in high school history class. These include how, once Rosa Parks was arrested, the people had only 4 days to print off flyers to mobilize their people for the Montgomery Bus Boycott. (And it's wasn't done by xeroxing, either, but by mimeograph machines.)

Another stop that's mandatory is the Dexter Parsonage , the house where MLK and his wife lived when he was pastor of the Dexter Avenue King Memorial Baptist Church in Montgomery. You have to make a reservation but, again, the visit is memorable, especially because of the guide, Shirley Cherry, who knows plenty of what went on in this house, including on the porch where you can still see the damage from the bomb that exploded while Dr. King's wife and baby were in the house.

After all of these museums, you may think why visit yet another one: the Voting Rights Trail Interpretive Center. That would be a mistake. Again, a wealth of information awaits, with plenty of surprises. For example, the video here is extremely emotional as it provides interviews with actual participants of the marches. And I learned that the center is on land where many African-Americans were forced to camp because they were thrown out of their houses after they had registered to vote. The exhibits provide artifacts from the marches, including photos of Bloody Sunday. Outside you can walk a short loop where signage explains the spot where the marchers passed and what the harsh reality of daily life in the tent was like.

On the south side of the Edmund Petus Bridge that leads into Selma and where the state troopers and sheriff's deputies waited to assail the marchers with tear gas and batons, you'll find the new location for the National Voting Rights Museum. Yes, another museum and another must visit in my book because there is no redundancy among all these venues. They all add to the story. Here you'll see actual quotes written on the wall from participants as well as some of the threatening utterances from the troopers. You'll also find shoe prints from the foot soldiers, the marchers themselves, who were by far, not the leaders; they were the ordinary people that were firm in their commitment to the cause for equality.

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Cycling in Djerba, Tunisia

Many, including myself, have come under Djerba's spell. Perhaps even Ulysses. After all, this Mediterranean island has long been suffused with mythology. In Homer's Odyssey, Ulysses and his crew were said to have been seduced by the sweet fruit of lotus flowers -- most likely it was a fermented beverage that intoxicated them -- that they had difficulty heading back to their ships. No wonder this isle is sometimes dubbed the "Isle of Forgetfulness."


What I found was equally intoxicating from an atmospheric point of view. This petite lush Tunisian oasis that's trimmed with sandy beaches is a perfect place for bicycling: an almost year-round sunny land that's as flat as it can be, aside from a few minor hills. (For those not wanting to work up a sweat, the bus network is extensive or you can rent a scooter or a car.) But, for me, cycling allows for more of an intimacy with the land.

And though there are not the tantalizing lotus flowers -- or whatever fermented fruit they may have consumed -- that are said to have tempted Ulysses and his men, there is the sweet perfume of flowering fruit trees.


The golden swaths of sand is what attracts most everyone who steps on Djerba's shores. In fact, the northeast coast with its clutter of resorts and private beaches sees most of the tourist traffic. Instead, I headed further south towards the causeway where I found more solitude along the sandy stretches.


But, a much more magical landscape awaited inland where the scape is dappled with gnarled olive groves and tall date palms. Once I left the sandy coast, I found quiet country lanes where donkey carts rolled by, fields of grazing sheep, and even a young boy herding camels.


Djerba's villages dramatically sparkle in the sunlight, their whitewashed facades in stark contrast to their azure-blue trim and the colorful surrounding fields planted with a cornucopia of fruits, from pomegranates and apricots to mandarins and grapes. Each village displays the island's distinctive white-washed domed buildings. Even the mosques have an unusual architecture, more fortress-like than you might've expected if you're accustomed to the ornate Ottoman embellishments.


Many of the island's villages are noted for different artisanal goods: whether its hand-woven baskets from Fatou or straw hats from Sedouikech. And Saturday morning brings crowds to El May flocking to their colorful market. For generations, the village of Guellala in the south has been turning out pottery and ceramics that's still made the traditional way, on the potter's wheel, with the clay dug from small quarries just outside of town.


One morning, I wandered the vibrant souks in Houmt Souk, the island's picturesque capital that's brimming elaborate silver filagree jewelry, palm leaf-woven baskets, camel hide bags, boldly hued Bedouin belts.


My retreat was the snowy white village of Er Riadh with its network of narrow lanes. There I found the Hotel Dar Dhiafa, a boutique property that's fashioned from centuries-old houses. This is an idyllic place to walk through the tiled courtyards, past pools and niches where bougainvillea are draped and candles cast a warm glow. Plus, they have some of the best cuisine around, North African dishes with French accents.

One of the most surprising findings here is that a Jewish population has called this village home for some 2,000 years. In the modern-day synagogue, El Ghriba, North Africa's oldest, beyond the blue-trimmed white facade is a sun-speckled interior bedecked with ornate mosaics and painted pillars and archways.

Even if Djerba is mostly flat, it's nice to know that weary muscles can easily get some relief. That's because Djerba has become a center for thalassotherapy, spa treatments that revolve around sea water and seaweed treatments that are said to be especially rejuvenating. A firm massage or a soothing wrap could very well be as seductive as the beverage that once captivated Ulysses.

Things To Do

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My Secret Reykjavik Tips

Iceland is one of my specialties and I've blogged about it frequently.This endearing country, especially the tiny capital city of Reykjavik, is a wealth of treasures, though many tourists simply stop off at the Blue Lagoon after they arrive at Kevlavik Airport, spend barely a day in the city before heading off on the Golden Circle or other tours of pristine parks, gushing geysers and cascading waterfalls.


But Reykjavik has so much to offer. I've spend at least 4 to 5 days in the city each time I visit and I always find plenty of culturally interesting and active adventures as well as gourmet delights. These are some of my favorite little-known activities in Reykjavik. Check it out and next time you head for the land of fire and ice, save some time for these.

1. 871 +/- 2: The Settlement Exhibition, is a curious name for a museum. But it makes sense, considering that’s Iceland’s approximate settlement date. Located on the exact spot where they found the ruins of a 10th century longhouse, this archeological museum stands beside a major hotel. If you steer clear of archeologic museums, be warned that this one is hardly chock full of dull exhibits. It’s quite interactive with holographic-type images and sounds of the time, from knife making to cowbells.

2. Not far away along the quay, the Reykjavik Art Museum - Harbor House features the pop oeuvre of noted Icelandic artist, Erro. But the museum also regularly hosts temporary exhibits that are quite innovative. (This is one of the three Reykjavik Art Museums in the city and each is worth visiting for the pastiche of often colorful abstract works as well as inspired landscapes on display.

3. Nearby is a warehouse that’s home to the Saturday morning flea market. It’s bric-a-brac laden but it’s the food court that’s worth visiting. Often, you can sample some of the typical food items found in every Icelander’s home, including potato bread, rugbraud (malt bread), dried catfish and the infamous fermented shark meat. I was warned to avoid the latter but accidentally sampled a small cube that was offered to me on a toothpick. After finding it tasteless after initially chewing it, the full power of the ammonia-laden meat became overwhelming.

4. I’m not necessarily a big fan of visiting cemeteries but Reykjavik’s is reminiscent of a botanical garden. The 19th century Holavalla Cemetery is dense with foliage and ancient gnarled trees towering over ornate headstones.

5. Walk towards the city’s towering landmark, the church named Hallgrimskirkja, and you’ll find the Einar Jonsson Museum with its postage stamp-size sculpture garden. As you explore the allegorical works, you’ll notice that he was very much influenced by mythological and religious themes.

6. Take a long pleasant walk or a short cab ride to get to the Reykjavik Botanic Garden located in the Laugardalur area. There you can wander twisty paths and inspect the plants that come from all over the world, including New Zealand and Asia. It’s interesting to see so many trees here in a country where tall evergreens are a rarity. Housed in a greenhouse laden with flora, Cafe Flora — a perfect lunch spot — is aptly named.

7. Certainly, one of Reykjavik’s most famous features is the Blue Lagoon with its series of geothermal pools and rejuvenating silica mud where you could luxuriate for most of the day. But, its location midway between downtown and the airport, hardly makes it convenient. You can choose from an array of mud and other spa treatments at their downtown location that’s not far from the Botanic Garden. If you choose a treatment, you also have access to the mega health club (Hreyfing) that’s in the same building. Or simply opt for a day pass to the health club.

8. And, if you can’t get enough of the water, Reykjavik even has a beach, but, like so much in the city, it’s hardly ordinary. Nautholsvik, a petite half-moon bay that’s easily accessible by bike, bus or cab, is geothermally heated and man made: the sand was trucked in. And if the water isn’t hot enough for you, there are hot tubs located just offshore and on the coast beside the sand so you can bake. Pick a sunny day to visit and you’ll find dozens of Icelanders soaking, lying on the sand, or playing volleyball.

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Radio Show: Travel Treasures in Cyprus

On my recent trip to Cyprus, I blogged about the wealth of treasures that would make me return to this tiny country. Now, Pat Boyle at the Travel Show on KPAM 860 Radio in Portland, Oregon interviewed me on my journey. Listen to this interview and you'll learn why the Cypriots are known for their hospitality, what was my favorite castle, and why mealtime was so special.



Listen to my interview on Cyprus by clicking on the audio player below:

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My Favorite Roman Ruins

Whenever I've been in a classroom listening to a history lesson, I have to admit that it couldn't have been more boring. It all came down to memorizing names, dates and conflicts. But when I'm on the road, exploring a land littered with ruins, history becomes an eye-opening tactile experience. On many of my journeys, I find myself face to face with the remains of the Roman empire, whether it's an ancient stone bridge that I jogged across or an expansive necropolis that's planted with flora that symbolizes life and death, both in Spain's Extremadura region. (I do have a thing for exploring necropoles all over the world.) But, because I like to go beyond the obvious in all my travels, rather than spending any length of time in Rome examining those grand artifacts, I hunted down Roman ruins in other parts of the world.


My recent feature round-up that I wrote for the travel network Boots n'All describes my pick of the top 10 Roman ruins that aren't in Rome. The Roman empire was quite vast, so it's no wonder that you'll find remains of Roman temples, arches, amphitheaters and villas in as far away as Croatia, Libya, and Israel.


But, what's even more fun is visiting many of these sites when they put on an annual cultural, drama or music festival. I was lucky to visit Merida, Spain when they were hosting their annual summer Merida Classical Theater Festival that's held in the impressive Roman amphitheater. The nightly activities can include films, dance performances, comedy and, of course, classic drama. What could be better than sitting under the stars on a pillow atop the ruins of the top tiers of the amphitheater and listen to a tragedy that was written by Euripides. Certainly a fine way of learning about history.

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The Cyprus You Never Knew

It wasn't until I told a few colleagues that I was headed to Cyprus that I realized even savvy travelers don't know much about this Mediterranean island. After all, their response upon hearing about my upcoming trip was uniformly "I've always wanted to travel to Greece." Curious, considering that, though the Greek culture certainly informs Cyprus, both in terms of the cuisine, the language and other cultural influences, Cyprus is not part of Greece. It's an independent country located just south of Turkey and west of Lebanon and Syria. In addition, if you're heading to Israel, Cyprus makes a great side trip. There are regular cruises from Haifa and frequent one-hour flights from Tel Aviv.

Here's what else you're missing if you haven't visited this petite-sized country that's not even as big as Connecticut.

1. Aside from Israel, I've never found a country with more plump, juicy citrus fruits than in Cyprus. No matter where we drove on the island, I found trees loaded with grapefruits, lemons, oranges and tangerines. Cyprus grows a surprisingly wide array of fruits (and vegetables), from kiwi and cherries to strawberries, bananas and quince. And, no matter where I dined, the fruits were always sweet.

2. I was under a misconception that, since Cyprus is surrounded by the Mediterranean, the meals would be mostly fish centered. In fact, Cypriots eat a lot of meat. It seems that's because the waters have been over fished, making fish quite expensive. But the meats are a real treat, including succulent lamb dishes, seasoned ground pork that's formed into a oval-shaped meatballs, and ribs that are marinated in red wine and then grilled. At lunch and dinner, your best bet is to order the meze which means you'll be eating sometimes a dozen small dishes. The desserts may be the most interesting because the Cypriots love to serve candied fruits in a heavy sugary syrup. Watermelon rind and bitter orange were my two favorite candied fruits, both having a perfume-like aromatic flavor. Some of our meals concluded with a grappa-like beverage called zivania. This is such a powerful drink that some of the locals use it to clean windows!


3. When you've visited one graveyard you've visited them all, but not in Cyprus. We inspected the Tombs of the Kings, named because the tombs were so grand yet kings were not buried here. Rather, it was most likely rich aristocrats. Dating to the 4th century BC, these tombs are unique because they were designed to look like houses, complete with open air courtyards surrounded by massive columns and Doric capitols. The best preserved were tombs #3 and #4 where I found massive cave-like structures where several stone coffins would have been positioned.

4. Ancient people in Cyprus have long worshiped the fertility goddess. Later, she became identified with Aphrodite, the goddess of love and fertility. So it's not surprising that a temple to Aphrodite was found in Cyprus. (You can visit the remains of the ruins) as well as the Baths of Aphrodite, a pool fed by a natural spring, where, as legend has it, Adonis first saw Aphrodite as she bathed in the waters. It's said if you drink from the spring you'll feel younger. (But the water really isn't for drinking.) Probably the most visited Aphrodite site, though, is along the coast. It's a giant rock in the sea marking the site where Aphrodite was allegedly born. Today locals say anyone who swims around the rock seven times will have eternal youth or eternal love. Lovers also tie white fabric to brush in the area hoping their wishes will come true. But the tides can be quite rough in this area so swimming at all let alone seven times might actually be dangerous. (I'd opt for just tying the fabric and skip the swim. But the spot with its pebbly beach does make a nice picnic spot.


5. Choirokoitia is a must visit for archeology buffs. Here you'll find ruins of the earliest settlement in Cyprus, dating to 6,800 BC. This UNESCO World Heritage site has replicas of the round, flat-roofed stone huts where these ancient people once lived. You can see where they buried their dead in a pit in the floor of each dwelling -- the dead were buried with a stone on their chest, maybe because they feared that they could rise again. After inspecting these replicas, then hike around the expansive site with the actual ruins that also that this village was sophisticated enough to have a security wall with a gate.

6. I'm a big fan of castles and I wasn't disappointed in Cyprus. My favorite was the Kolossi Castle where the basement was used to store sugar in the Middle Ages. (Yes, hard to believe, but sugar cane was a big industry.) It's here where the Knights of the Order of St. John of Jerusalem (referred to as the Commanderie) first produced the traditional Cypriot wine referred to as Kommandaria. (Kommandaria is the oldest wine in the world. And you can taste this sweet red dessert wine at some of the vineyards on the island. Only 14 produce Kommandaria.) Don't miss walking up the narrow steep spiral stone staircase to the top for panoramic views. On the way up you'll see the spacious private quarters of the head of the order.


7. If you love grand theaters, then Kourion is a must see. This city, that originated in the 12th/13th century, includes a massive Greco-Roman theater that was the site of Greek comedy and tragedy as well as Roman mime performances. Now, every July, you can sit in the stands overlooking the azure Bay of Episkopi and the verdant farmland and watch performances during the Ancient Greek Drama Festival.


8. I adore archeological digs and Cyprus is loaded with them, especially in Paphos in the southwest. In fact, the whole town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. On a hilltop locale are the remains of the houses and villas of the wealthy who decorated their floors with elaborate mosaics. Some of the most impressive, colorful mosaics are in the House of Dionysos, named for the mosaic of the god of wine and theater found here. Interestingly, it was a farmer accidentally who first discovered one of the mosaics in his field in the 1960s. If you have a guide, you'll be treated to an array of soap opera-like stories as you observe the mosaics telling the tales of Narcissus gazing at his image in the lake, Apollo falling for Daphne who rejects him, and Pyramos who kills himself when he erroneously thinks Thisbe was devoured by a lion. (She then kills herself when she finds his body.)

9. If you're a nature and adventure lover like me, then you have to stop at the Akamas Peninsula in the Northwest. The landscape reminded me a lot of Ireland with its confection of green-tinged landscape. It's home to many nature trails, including the path along the Avakas Gorge where the walls become quite narrow and shaded. Then you look up to see an enormous boulder stuck between the two sides of the gorge. It was formed millions of years ago and it only requires a short walk with some boulder hopping. When I was on this trail where some of the plant life is identified, I heard wild goats, saw giant reeds that my guide used to make kites for his kids, and found wild asparagus that the locals cook with scrambled eggs and lemons.

Large parts of the Akamas Peninsula are protected, allowing the green and loggerhead turtles to lay their eggs on placid Toxeftra Beach each summer (July-August). It's certainly an adventurer's paradise here. Aside from hiking, there's bird watching, mountain biking, parasailing, scuba diving, horse back riding all in this area. After all of this activity, to wind down, I chose the five-star Anassa Hotel that relies on seawater and algae in their treatments.

Things To Do

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Visiting Portugal's Dynamic Wine Region

One hour from Guimaraes, a quaint town dating to the 10th century that's seen as the cradle of Portugal's identity and is preparing to be European Cultural Capital 2012, I had one of my most unique and delightful wine experiences. I was spending several days in the country's Vinho Verde region, the northwest sector renown for its fresh, aromatic, light citrus-tinged wines. This region, one of Portugal's oldest, is named not, as often thought, for the youth of its wines, but rather for the verdant landscape carpeting this land that's blessed with warm summers, cool winters and plenty of rain -- perfect conditions for producing some fine varietals. Curiously, the vines grow along wires and arbors, lending a picturesque quality to the terroir. The reason, however, is a practical one: Originally it was a way to efficiently plant the land and now the aerial growth allows for plenty of sun to rain down upon the leaves while keeping the grapes far from standing water which would breed mildew.


A mighty family house hovered in the background as Vasco Croft, the congenial and knowledgeable wine maker and owner of Afros Wine, greeted us. From this hill top retreat, the vineyards growing Loureiro and Vinhau grapes, used to make white and red wines, respectively, are spread before us. Piercing the idyllic valley far below is the tower of a parish church and, beyond, gently rolling hills.

The tour of the property started out quite ordinary as Vasco pointed out the stone dwelling that's been in the family since the 17th century and the stately trees that his great grandmother planted -- some are more than 100 years old. (But wine production in this region goes way back to Roman times.)

Then the conversation became decidedly more unique as Vasco showed us many of the elements involved in the production of biodynamic wines. Though there are many people who still hold that this green methodology that goes far beyond simply producing an organic product is hocum or some sort of magic, it's the results that count. (But I'll get to that later.)

The process involves considering a host of cosmic factors -- from the phases of the moon to ambient magnetic radiation -- that can affect the health of the vines. Here, the entire eco-system is seen as playing a core role in grape agriculture. Sure, there are some production aspects that, to the traditional wine producer, seem certainly curious. Vasco told us that he plants and harvests according the phases of the mood; places cow manure in cows' horns that are buried underground to produce a humus that's used in minute quantities; and uses a dynamizer machine that sequentially rotates clockwise and then counterclockwise to mix up various components, such as crushed quartz and dried flowers that help build up the quality of the soil.

He even showed us a tinkling organic-shaped waterfall he had built that optimizes the rhythmic quality of the water. (Another key biodynamic principle.) Vasco keeps bee hives on the property for pollination purposes, uses tea tree oil to prevent mildew on the grapes, and sprays them with silica to maximize photosynthesis.

It's all quite complicated and precise, but it obviously works. I sampled five wines that were some of the best I've tasted during my many visits to Portugal. These wines were transparent, vibrant and full of life, just like the wine producer, Vasco. My favorite was the elegant, light citrus-toned 2007 sparkling white made with 100% Loureiro. Vasco told me that his 2008 Loureiro was recently voted "most ethical wine" by the Independent. I also had the opportunity to taste a couple of the 2009 vintage that were still unlabelled. The 2009 Loureiro had grapefruit notes while the 2009 Vinhao (a red) had ripe tannins and plenty of licorice notes. I would've loved to have packed away all five in my backpack. Sadly there was no room.

Sure, it's hard to explain how these unorthodox methods work. But Vasco is producing wines that maximally reflect the region's terroir. I'd be delighted to visit this vineyard and taste any of these wines again. Anyone who is interested in a wine tasting at this quinta needs to call to make a reservation in the summer only.

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Morocco's Bird Watching Oasis

My trips don't always work out the way I'd like. Sometimes they work out better. Because of itinerary restrictions among the members of the group I was traveling with, I spent my brief time in Morocco based out of Agadir and not the High Atlas Mountains, as I would've preferred. But that didn't stop me from heading out into natural landscapes.

I hired a jeep and took off on a day trip with my guide, Mokhtar, through the Souss Valley, a fertile land in south Morocco where the country's Berber people reside, bound for Massa with its picturesque estuary.

On our journey, we passed donkeys carrying heavy loads and women dressed in colorful garb sitting astride horses with baskets filled with greens, sometimes they overflowed to such as extend that you could hardly see the donkey. We passed villages of red clay in an ever-changing scenery -- from lush verdancy dappled with bold wild flowers to crop fields, groves of citrus, olive and almond trees, and dense forests of Argania trees. (The oil from their nuts are used in many traditional dishes.)


As we traveled through the semi-desert, the buildings were the color of sand with doors painted in bold blue and green hues. We bumped off road on rutted, bone-rattling single track bound for Souss Massa National Park and its picturesque estuary that's surrounded by massive sand dunes and a tidal sandbar. The road got sandier as we bumped along towards the ocean. Finally, I strolled through sugar-fine golden sand delighting in the cool breezes. Then my guide told me that this area is more than a prime migratory bird zone. It's also said to be the beach where the whale disgorged the prophet Jonah.

This petite wetland with its reeds and grasses is considered Morocco's prime bird watching site. And it didn't disappoint, with an array of sightings: terns, gulls, herons, ibis, sand martins and marbled ducks, a threatened species. I kept my eyes focused skyward, wondering if I'd spot eagles, falcons or even some rarer birds. Given the natural beauty and the wealth of bird sightings, I wished I had a few days to spend here. But we had to head back to Agadir that evening.

We did have time for a late lunch of traditional Berber bread that was baked in a clay kiln and then piled high in shallow wicker baskets. We ate the warm bread with honey. Then I curled a piece around beef shish kebabs. I also scooped up the traditional Berber dish, tajine, that's served in a round clay pot with chicken, squash, potatoes, carrots and tomatoes.

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