My Interview: Hiking An Awe-Inspiring Trail in Spain

I’ve hiked all over the world. And, by far, the trail that always puts a smile on my face when I think back to my journey is the Camino dos Faros (Lighthouse Way) in Galicia Spain. A streaming Spanish program recently invited me to talk about my experiences on this trek and why I adore this trail. This is my 10-minute interview with Cristina Alonso.

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Watercolors - Travels in Spain

These are some of my watercolors from my many travels in Spain.

While Ronda, one of Spain’s Pueblos Blancos (White Villages) has always been a tourist focal point, I found plenty of serenity by hiking down to the bottom of the narrow gorge that defines the city’s geography.

Another of my daydreams: a village in Spain as seen through a rain-streaked window. Though I always prefer sun streaming through glass, in Spain even dreary weather is atmospheric and fills me with wonder and optimism.

Another pastoral village in Spain that gives me joy and instills me with a sense of tranquility and calm.

I spent many summers in this petite, isolated hamlet that’s snuggled in a deep, verdant valley three hours north of Madrid. Being enveloped by nature as I was there is what I crave right now.

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Any-Occasion Greeting Cards As We Self-Isolate

As we continue to self-isolate, many of us crave connections with others more than ever, to recapture some of the intimacies we had in the “before time” or maybe to reconnect with those we’ve lost touch with. Sure, we no long send cards and letters to friends and family whether to commemorate a special event or just to say “hi hi.” But at this time, receiving a handwritten card emblazoned with a landscape image that provides travel inspiration and satisfies some of our wanderlust might be especially appreciated. Each of my any-occasion greeting cards features one of my landscape, nature and travel photos from my around-the-world travels, including India, Corsica, Nicaragua and Israel.  Some of the cards are vertical and others are horizontal. (This montage represents a sample of the many photo images available.) They can be purchased singly or as a set of 5 or 12 or more different images. (When purchased, you’ll receive a random sampling of the number of cards desired.)

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A Must-Do Hiking Trail in Spain

Each hiking trail has a personality. Some are majestic, taking trekkers to high altitude where the summits seem to touch the clouds. Others wander through dense forests where the hiker feels enveloped by the foliage, hardly ever passing a village during their journey. As a hiker, I favor trails that allow me to connect with the land and its people, without having to risk life and limb to complete the journey. I recently journeyed to Spain's northwest corner where the province of Galicia is a treasured expanse of lighthouses, quiet coves, fishing villages and vast farmland. My journey took me along the Lighthouse Way (Camino dos Faros), a trail that may very well be my favorite trail in the world. To find out why, check out my recent article for Forbes on hiking the Lighthouse Way.

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A Monolith along the Camino dos Faros, Spain

This dramatically-crafted, granite monolith in the coastal town of Muxia honors the Galician volunteers that mobilized in 2002 to clean up a massive eco disaster. That was the year when the Prestige, an oil tanker, was seriously damaged at sea, splitting in two, spilling tens of thousands of tons of oil all along the Costa da Morte, and contaminating sea and sand. The monolith is appropriate named "A Ferida," which translates to "The Wound." On my hiking trip along this coast, following the Camino dos Faros, I was lucky to meet one of the men who organized the volunteers.

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Hiking A Wild and Bucolic Landscape in Spain

I recently signed up for a self-guided hike along the Camino dos Faros -- the Lighthouse Way in Galicia, Spain -- with On Foot Holidays. I never tired of the dramatic and pastoral landscapes, the sense of calm, the fresh seafood, and the convivial spirit of Galicia's populace. Sure, most people know this province for Santiago de Compostela, the terminus for many different routes of the Camino de Santiago. But, having done one of them that courses through the province of Asturias, I prefer the Lighthouse Way any day for its wild and bucolic beauty. Hiking along this picturesque Costa da Morte -- so named because of the numerous shipwrecks along the dramatically rocky shore -- reveals a constantly changing tapestry of scenic vistas. The end of this hike is Finisterre, which the Romans aptly named because they thought this westernmost cape in the province of Galicia was the "end of the earth." Staying at a hotel beside the lighthouse where the winds howled all night long, I was delighted to overnight in the "dos faros" (The Lighthouse) guest room where I kept the blinds up, allowing the darkness to be pierced by the cold glow. During the day, I walked 2 km into the colorful town whose port is bustling with fishing boats. Having traveled extensively through Spain, I can enthusiastically say that Galicia is my very favorite province and the Camino dos Faros may very well be the best hiking route I’ve ever had the pleasure of walking.

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Tips For Adventure Travel, My Fave Parks + Much More

With summer vacations on the horizon, how do you choose an adventure-based trip? After all, you don't want to end up on a hiking trek that seems like you'll pass out as you slog up yet another mountain pass, particularly if you're at high altitude. Kinda puts a crimp in the enjoyment factor. And it can be a health hazard, especially if you have any pre-existing conditions or are just unfit or unprepared.

Not all of my trips are adventure-based, but those that are, most are memorable, such as my multi-day cross-country ski journey in Washington's Methow Valley. Then, there are those that I'd rather forget - or, rather, forget select portions - such as having to negotiate vertigo-inducing "via ferrata" in Italy's Dolomite Mountains.

For those who've never done (or even considered) a multi-day hiking, biking, cross-country skiing trek, you might wonder what's the appeal?  For me, it means focusing in on the simple things in life: food, shelter and good company.

These are just a few of the things I discussed in an interview with Don Nadeau, President of Bidon Travel. 

You'll learn about my favorite hikes, what other adventures are on my list, some of my favorite adventure tour operators, what travel experience related to my degree in Eastern Religion, under-the-radar gems in Spain, why I adore visiting Israel, my favorite parks and gardens around the world, and much more.

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My Top Travel Tip For Women + Much More

Ever wonder why I rarely if ever carry a purse? What made me fall in love with Spain, Portugal and Israel? What makes Washington state's Methow Valley so special? And, I bet you have no idea what motivated me to start traveling around the world once I graduated from high school?

You'll find out the answers to these and other things about my life as a travel writer by reading this interview I did with Dian Emery at GirlsGetaway.

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Teaching English In Spain

What could I possibly be doing in a stone-made hamlet in Spain where there's no shopping, no cars, no air conditioning and little in the way of WiFi? Almost every summer I travel to the Soria province to teach conversational English to Spanish business men and women and sometimes college students. The setting is idyllic, the distractions are few and each day offers so many possibilities in terms of making a difference in the lives of others.

I've written about this program in the hamlet of Valdelavilla before. It's definitely not for everyone. You have to enjoy almost non-stop conversation from breakfast to sometimes way into the night as conversations move from the dinner table to the one laid-back bar. There's little down time. Some volunteers find it difficult to come up with entertaining topics that keep everyone engaged. Others get burned out with the constant interactions. Since I have a background as a teacher and I thrive on meeting new people and engaging them in all manner of conversations, whether political, social or cultural, I'm in my element in this hamlet.


But, recently I've come upon a new conversation starter: my quirky line of JCreatures™ t-shirts. Each t-shirt has a cartoon image that I designed, which reflects a different emotion or state of being, like emoticons, of sorts. It's hard to look at one and not wonder what it means.


Recently, I guest blogged for the PhotoFly Travel Club on teaching English in Valdelavilla and how I use my JCreatures™  t-shirts (such as those below) to promote conversation while also boosting camaraderie and providing a few laughs.

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Walking Spain's Less-Visited Camino de Santiago Route

Every day presented an idyllic landscape: an abundance of orchards, ruins of pre-Romanesque churches, golden sand beaches and always a surprise or two, including a sign that tempted me with berry picking and, what turned out to be, heaps of handmade ice cream packed with the farm's berries.

This is what I experienced by walking part of a less visited Camino de Santiago in the Asturias region of Northern Spain. This area certainly has its moody side, thanks to the mist and showers that blanket the landscape, weather that assures the lushness of the foliage. You can follow my journey in my article appearing online at TravelSquire.

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Volunteering in Spain + Why T-Shirts are Conversation Starters

With all the exotic places in the world, why would I return almost every after year to a tiny hamlet in Spain that's more than four hours north of Madrid? Many reasons: I can stay for free in a medieval environment;  wander car-free stone lanes that wind from your two-story dwelling; live among a group of Spaniards (mostly business men and women) where we spend our days learning about each other while I'm volunteer teaching them the intricacies of the English language (and without being stuck in a classroom); and engage in hours of role playing, group games, fun brainstorming sessions, and theater rehearsals. These are some of the many reasons I return to this hamlet named Valdelavilla.

Since the native English speakers have to chat one-on-one with the Spaniards for hour upon hour over the course of a week, that's where my JCreatures™ t-shirts come in. (I've blogged about the origins of the JCreatures™ several months ago.) These images are curious enough that wearing any of the seven t-shirt images almost guaranteed a lively conversation.

 I recently guest blogged for TravelProducts.com about Valdelavilla and how my t-shirts serve a couple of functions. Find out about my adventure here.

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Some of My Fave Destinations + More Travel Tips

Whenever someone finds out I'm a travel writer, invariably they'll ask, "What's your favorite place?" My response is that I love every place I visit, for different reasons. I hate to single out one destination because every country, state or city has something to offer. I'm also often asked what's my favorite destination for great food. Again, I find culinary delights all over the world, even in places not known for their cuisine. But Shane at National RV Parks interviewed me recently and wanted to pin me down with regard to these and other questions, including why I decided to start this blog, did I always want to travel the world, and what tips would I give a newbie traveler.

Aside from doing tons of research beforehand, I always recommend everyone carry a well-stocked first-aid kit. (All manner of maladies can occur on the road, even when you're not far from home.) It's also interesting that he asked me why I started JtheTravelAuthority considering the third-year anniversary is rapidly approaching. (I wrote my first post on December 13, 2008.) And, in case you're wondering about my favorite destination that I would revisit over and over again, that would be Spain. (I just returned from Madrid where I bicycled their brand-new landscaped promenade that parallels the Manzanares River.) As far as the place that puts me in foodie heaven, it's Malaysia. (I get easily bored but there's no way to become tired of the seemingly endless spices, herbs and ingredients found in Malaysian cuisine.)

 Check out my interview at National RV Parks here.

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Michelle Obama's Spanish Vacation - Visiting Ronda

Michelle Obama certainly has great taste in vacation venues when she decided to holiday in southern Spain last week with her daughter, Sascha, and friends. One of the most picturesque cities in the Andalucian area that she visited was Ronda. I certainly don’t have any insider information on her full itinerary in this Moorish town, but I’m sure she took in some of the more iconic offerings.

1. I walked through the Jardines Ciudad de Cuenca, a series of tiered gardens that sit on the edge of the gorge. These green spaces are a quiet oasis landscaped with palms, cacti, roses, stone benches and boulders.

2.At the18th century Casa del Rey Moro or House of the Moorish King, I visited the surrounding Islamic and European garden with its manicured hedges, lily pond, palms and cedar. Here, I climbed down the long, slippery underground stairway that was cut out of solid rock. At the end of the 365 steps that lead to the bottom of the gorge, I looked out at the impressive rock face and green water of the Guadalevin River.

3. Sitting on the edge of Ronda's precipice, the Casa del Don Juan Bosco is noted for its extensive collection of local ceramics. Decorative art also found outside the house in the tiered garden with decorative tile work, mosaics and fountains.

4. At the Plaza Maria Auxiadora or Plaza del Campillo with its flowering trees is a narrow path that snakes down to the bottom of the gorge. Along the way, I found the remains of the medieval city walls, an old Moorish door to the city and flourmills also from the Arabic period. This path has one of the best views of the gorge, El Tajo, as you stand face-to-face with the cliff and directly across from the New Bridge, and the waterfall that tumbles into the river.

5. The museum inside the Palacio de Mondragon displayed an interesting Muslim funeral exhibit with tombstones dating from the 14th century and an explanation of how the dead were buried on the outskirts of Ronda.

6. At the Arab Baths, I watched a video that explained, in Spanish, how water was pumped in from the nearby stream.

7. I could've spent hours examining arrest warrants, dioramas of bandits' hiding places in caves, their weapons, death certificates, and pseudonyms all on display at the appropriately named Bandit Museum. The extensive exhibits are devoted to the life of Spain's bandits, especially the bandits of Andalusia where they have long been romanticized in literature and myth.

8. Popular with locals, the Alameda del Tajo Gardens in the center of town are landscaped with iron arbors, palmetto, bamboo, conifers and a balcony hanging over the cliff edge. Here, I strolled the adjacent path lined with flowering shrubs and trees that parallels the gorge.

9. When I finally stopped to relax, I ordered a café con leche at a cafe across from the Plaza Dequesa de Parcent that's planted with tall conifers, palms and orange trees.

10. I followed the signs out of Ronda for Virgen de la Cabeza, a lovely short that winds through a hot and dusty land that's lined with old stone walls, olive trees and wild pistachio. This one-mile trail leads to a Mozarabic church that was built in a cave in the 9th century. I walked through the rooms cut into sandstone -- with monastic living quarters and others for worship -- and into the crypt. On the second Sunday of June, the locals make a pilgrimage to this hermitage where they honor the Virgin Mary with prayer and celebration.

Things To Do

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My Favorite Roman Ruins

Whenever I've been in a classroom listening to a history lesson, I have to admit that it couldn't have been more boring. It all came down to memorizing names, dates and conflicts. But when I'm on the road, exploring a land littered with ruins, history becomes an eye-opening tactile experience. On many of my journeys, I find myself face to face with the remains of the Roman empire, whether it's an ancient stone bridge that I jogged across or an expansive necropolis that's planted with flora that symbolizes life and death, both in Spain's Extremadura region. (I do have a thing for exploring necropoles all over the world.) But, because I like to go beyond the obvious in all my travels, rather than spending any length of time in Rome examining those grand artifacts, I hunted down Roman ruins in other parts of the world.


My recent feature round-up that I wrote for the travel network Boots n'All describes my pick of the top 10 Roman ruins that aren't in Rome. The Roman empire was quite vast, so it's no wonder that you'll find remains of Roman temples, arches, amphitheaters and villas in as far away as Croatia, Libya, and Israel.


But, what's even more fun is visiting many of these sites when they put on an annual cultural, drama or music festival. I was lucky to visit Merida, Spain when they were hosting their annual summer Merida Classical Theater Festival that's held in the impressive Roman amphitheater. The nightly activities can include films, dance performances, comedy and, of course, classic drama. What could be better than sitting under the stars on a pillow atop the ruins of the top tiers of the amphitheater and listen to a tragedy that was written by Euripides. Certainly a fine way of learning about history.

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My Three Best Kept Travel Secrets

TripBase, a very popular travel blog, recently started a tag-you’re-it game across the travel blogosphere. The idea is to collect a cool list of across-the-globe travel secrets from as many travel bloggers as possible. At some point, this list will be a Creative Commons roundup that I’ll be able to share with you once it's available.

I’ve just been tagged by two of my favorite travel bloggers, Melanie of TravelswithTwo and Robin of MyMelange to contribute my top three travel secrets.

Here they are:

1. Florida's Panhandle sometimes gets a bad rap, often because overdeveloped Panama City gets so much attention as a haven for spring break revelers. But there's that other Florida Panhandle, the authentic one that presents so many opportunities to explore some pristine beaches you might have difficulty choosing which ones to lay down your beach towel. In fact, over the past many years, some of these beaches have made it on to Dr. Beach's Best Beaches in America list -- a list with some 50 key criteria, including water color, scenery, urban development, sand quality and more.

Here are some of my favorite picks where blinding white sandy beaches are the rule and where, depending on the time of the year, I've found sections with more shorebird tracks than footprints.
Nine miles of dunes make St. Joseph Peninsula State Park particularly appealing. Shallow waters make also make it ideal for novice kayakers and a haven for migratory song birds, though it's also possible to spy hawks soaring overhead. St. George Island State Park is blessed with miles of sugar-white sands bordered by salt marches and oak and pine forests. Off the beach there's also good fishing for red snapper, mackerel and pompano. At Grayton Beach State Park, you can swim in emerald green water, gaze at sea-oat covered dunes, and hike through a lovely pine forest. St. Andrews State Park gives you the choice of swimming in the gulf or in a quiet tidal pool. From the beach, snorkelers are treated to multi-colored fish among the granite boulders of the jetty.


2. Surrounded on three sides by the sea and ringed by defensive Genoese watchtowers, Alghero makes for a picturesque town, especially given its fortified ancient quarter. Yet, many of those who visit Alghero with its fortified quarter never seem to leave their beach blanket. Set along the less developed west coast, Alghero has so much more to offer than swaths of sand and aquamarine waters that are perfect for boating. A sense of history pervades the old quarter that's still surrounded by Genoese watchtowers. On a self-guided audio tour, I climbed to the 20-meter-high terrace of the 16th century Porto Terra Tower for the panoramic views.
Though the beaches lining the coast of this resort town as well as those in nearby Fertilia get all the tourist attention, there are an array of day trips (many within cycling distance) sure to delight those who care little about sunning on Sardinia's sands. For example, I picked up an audio-guide at the Palmavera Nuraghe and meandered these ruins in this prehistoric village, one of the most complete of these Bronze Age complexes. Drive or bicycle through the little-visited Regional Forest of Porto Conte and you'll quickly understand why the protected land of oaks and pines is dubbed Noah's Ark. Unique white donkeys, small horses and Tibetan goats are just a few of the curious creatures wandering about. Though most visitors sign up for a boat tour to reach the famous Grotto di Nettuno with its cave network, a more memorable journey is to take the 654 steps of the Goat's Stairway down the cliff face. Not far away at Porto Ferro, three Genoese watchtowers guard Sardinia's longest beach where surfers flock to take on the crashing waves. Bird watchers often drive or bike to nearby pine-fringed Lake Baratz, Sardinia's only natural lake, where you may spot grebes and mallards.


3. Barcelona, Madrid and Andalusia get so much tourist traffic but it's the little visited Extremadura region -- one of Spain's least visited regions and the birthplace of Cortez, Pizarro and other Spanish conquistadors that provides so much inspiration for me with its rural landscapes of olive trees and Holm oaks, craggy mountainsides coated with pines and chestnuts trees and historic towns, Guadalupe, Merida, Trujillo, Zafra and Caceres, laced with labyrinthine streets. Each has a distinct character and is worth a visit: Trujillo http://www.spain.info/ven/otros-destinos/reportaje/trujillo.html?l=en for its palaces bearing the coats of arms of prominent families; Guadalupe for its massive monastery that's a UNESCO World Heritage site and one that houses a wealth of museums with elaborate embroidered vestments, reliquaries, ancient books of Gregorian chants; Merida that has some of the most complete set of Roman ruins around - so much so that I was able to jog along the periphery of the Roman Circus where chariot rides once took place; and, every June in Caceres, the capital of the province and another UNESCO World Heritage site, hosts the Classic Theater Festival where the works of the gold age artists can be experienced.
In whitewashed Zafra, though I didn't stay in one of Spain's most impressive paradors that's housed in a 15th century fortress-palace, I enjoyed the property's best feature: it's white marble Renaissance patio where I dined one evening on guinea hen in puff pastry. Instead, I stayed at Hotel Huerta Honda, the next-door property that was once the site of the castle's farm. In fact, the hotel's restaurant retains the original brick archway that was part of the fortress in the late 1400s. I also was lucky enough to visit during an annual event, De La Luna Al Fuego, when I took a historic tour of the fortress' impressive ramparts. I would've hung around longer to watch the sun set when an unexpected lightening storm cut our explorations short.


Now, I'm tagging 5 other travel blogs to share their top 3 best-kept travel secrets:

EllenBarone: Ellen's website and blogs have something for everyone. I've had the pleasure to travel with her and find that she's a real Renaissance woman who always gives me great tips and something new to think about.

JourneyWoman: Evelyn is a supreme resource for all things any woman will need when she's on the road, whether it's staying well or wondering what's appropriate to wear in different international destinations.

CiaoBambino: Ami provides a wealth of family-friendly travel advice. I don't have kids but, if I did, this would be one serious resource.

EuropeUpClose: Terri's just got so many fab tips, deals, news items and advice on so many European destinations. I'm in Europe frequently and I always find something here I didn't know.

Italylogue: Jessica rounds up an amazing array of everything you need to know about traveling to and enjoying Italy.

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Marvelous Walking Tours In Madrid

Madrid is one of my specialties. And, because I often like quirky activities, I found that a walking tour with the offbeat (some might say eccentric) Chairman of the Wellington Society of Madrid fits right in with my sensibilities. I've taken many of his walking tours and, with each one, I came away with lessons in Spanish art, history, literature and plenty of royal and political gossip and rumors. Whether it's a night walking tour in Madrid or a day trip to Segovia, visitors who tour with Stephen Drake, a former art history professor, will have a unique experience.



The Wellington Society of Madrid is not a tour company, but rather a society involved with education, culture and research. So, in order to sign up for any tour, you have to first become a member (and pay 50 euros). (Prices for the individual tours vary.)

Named for the Duke of Wellington who is most remembered for the Battle of Waterloo, the Society offers its new members a free two-hour walking tour of Madrid, plus tapas/wine stops along the way, as well as a travel help line and restaurant/wine recommendations, all for a 50 euro fee.

Here's what I learned on the many walks Stephen led:

• On the Hemingway’s Madrid walk, for example, we visited the writer’s favorite watering holes, hotels, cafes and restaurants.

• On the Bloody Madrid tour, Stephen pointed out the street where an assassin killed a philandering count on orders of the king, and the apartment where a writer, as renowned as Dickens. killed himself over a lost love.


• In Aranjuez -- a day trip from Madrid -- Stephen told me that the Bourbons hated to read but instead entertained themselves on the property’s hunting grounds and landscaped gardens.

• In Segovia, most people learn about the Roman aqueduct but Stephen pointed out the house where the public executioner would stay, the four restaurants favored by King Juan Carlos, the King of Spain, and the castle that inspired Walt Disney in the 1950s.

• Visiting the Valley of the Fallen, I got the real story behind the 50-foot-tall cross that sits above the underground basilica. It was not built, as most tours are told, as a memorial to some 40,000 soldiers of the Spanish Civil War but, rather, in honor of Franco and his right-hand man. In fact, tens of thousands of Republican prisoners were the laborers over the 19 years it took to build it.

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Adventures in Travel on Blog Talk Radio

Ellen Barone (no relation) who has a new show on Blog Talk Radio called "Travel Talk" just interviewed me. Check it out. You'll learn plenty about how I plan my trips, how I manage to never check luggage, why I love Madrid, and much more.

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Madrid Insider Advice

1. The most efficient and economical way of getting from one place to the other in Madrid is the Metro. If you plan on zipping all over the city, buy a 10-journey ticket at any metro station.

2. If you don't have a lot of cumbersome luggage, the hassle-free way to get from Barajas Airport to downtown is via the #8 Metro line that's right at the airport. However, you will have to change trains (at least once) to get to your final downtown destination.

3. Be wary of this scam used by pickpocketers all over the city: you're standing near a park when prodigious amounts of "bird poop" drops on you and two sweet, well-dressed young girls with water bottles and tissues rush to seemingly help you.

4. If you don't want to look like a tourist, don't order café con leche after 12 noon. It's a breakfast drink and should never be consumed with tapas or other afternoon/evening food items.

5. In the much-visited Retiro Park, don't miss the lakeside Palacio de Cristal, a glass pavilion with contemporary art exhibitions. Then wander to the park's east side across Paseo de Duque de Fernan Nunez for lovely gated formal gardens with peacocks, pergolas and water features.

6. On the south side of Retiro Park, you’ll find plants from all over the world as you wander past shady dells in the Royal Botanical Garden.

7. Near the airport but well worth the trip, El Capricho Park, open only on weekends, is known for its French, Italian and English-style gardens. It’s easy to spend the afternoon wandering around the shady grounds.

8. Giangrossi (Calle Velazquez, 44) is an artisanal ice cream chain that's usually packed but worth it to sample the many unusual and refreshing flavors, especially the mandarin and other fruits.

9. If you are a pastry fan, check out Mallorca (in Salamanca neighborhood on Calle Serrano), a chain store that has a wide array of miniature pastries, including éclairs, Napoleans and cream puffs.

10. Valentin del Barrio (Calle Moratin, 20) is an upscale leather goods shop (with a workshop downstairs) selling everything from portfolio cases to journalist's notebook covers. The family has been in the leather business since 1934.

11. Chocoholics should look no further than Cacao Sampaka (Calle Orellana, 4) for a quick fix of everything to do with the cocoa bean, including a shop to by gift items.

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Madrid's Other Amazing Museums

The Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen-Bornemisza seem to attract all the touist attention. But there are other museums far out of the limelight that are worth exploring.

• Housed in a turn-of-the-20th century mansion, the Lazaro Galdiano Museum displays the immense private collection of Jose Lazaro Galdiano, a Gilded Age entrepreneur and writer. The exhibits include everything from 4th century BC gold jewelry to the works of Goya, and unique small and miniature paintings, a mere one to four inches in size. Surrounding the museum is a garden landscaped in an 18th century style, one of the few surviving examples in Madrid.
• The Sorolla Museum is the former home and studio of Joaquin Sorolla, Spain's most famous Impressionist painter. Here, you'll find his most noteworthy works, including "Strolling along the Seashore", as well as his Spanish ceramics collection and antique furnishings. After wandering through the house and viewing the paintings, stroll through the lovely garden that was inspired by Andalusia, with shade trees, water features and ceramic tile work.
  

• The Monastery of Descalzas Reales is an elaborately designed convent turned museum where the nuns who were daughters of artistocrats donated precious works of art. On the tour, which is usually in Spanish only, you'll explore the many rooms and hallways displaying gold holy relics, frescoes and tapestries, including one woven from work by Rubens.
• For a completely different experience, walk through the Museo de Escultura al Aire Libre, an outdoor sculpture garden directly under an urban bridge. A small waterfall and a bubbling pool drown out most of Madrid's traffic as you explore the dozen or so contemporary pieces, mostly bronzes, by notables such as Eduardo Chillida, Joan Miro and Julio Gonzalez.
• The Real Academia de Bellas Artes houses a premier collection of classic works of art, mostly religious, by such great masters as Titian, Raphael and Van Dyck. Here, unlike the Prado, you'll find plenty of peace and quiet with more security guards than visitors.
• Given its distance from downtown -- though still accessible by the metro -- it's no wonder the Museu del Traje (Costume & Fashion Museum) is little visited. It's a shame more visitors don't take the opportunity to examine the vast collection of historical and contemporary dresses, gowns and costumes. This modern museum, with a lovely glassed-in restaurant, located in a garden with shaded paths, stands of bamboo and a pond with more than 60 spouting fountains.

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THE FIRST TO SEE THE SUN RISE ON NEW YEARS

I just returned from a week in Cadaques, a town in Spain’s Catalunya region where Salvator Dali lived with Gala for many years. This seaside town is packed in the summer but a visit around New Years allows you to participate in an interesting tradition: The locals drive from the surrounding towns to the peninsula of pristine Cap de Creus – a half hour from Cadaques – to celebrate the sunrise on January 1^st. No wonder, considering this windswept nature reserve with its rocky cliffs and headlands and working lighthouse is so far east that it’s the first place on the Iberian Peninsula to see the sun rise. Some years a thousand or so folks start out at 5 in the morning in order to get a parking space either in the small lot beside the lighthouse or, if that’s full, then along the roadside. The lighthouse played a prominent role in the 1970s film: “The Light at the Edge of the World.” And standing on the cliffs, whether in the wee hours of the morning as I did or later in the day, does feel like you’re at the end of the world.

Since it’s a nature reserve with unique flora that carpets the rugged slopes, the only building beside the lighthouse is the Restaurant Cap de Creus, housed in a former administrative edifice. The restaurant, that features Catalan and Indian cuisine, takes reservations for the multi-course New Years Eve dinner which is amazingly popular. I didn’t make it – I was too busy dining with friends in Cadaques and then eating the traditional 12 grapes right before midnight – but I heard they were packed. When we arrived at 5:30 a.m. on the 1^st we found about 15 people who had stayed all night – also very typical here. They were still dancing (the restaurant hosted a jazz big band on New Years Eve but the music transitioned to meringue as that band packed up) but now they were drinking café con leche rather than something stronger. It was cold outside with a bitter wind so my three friends and I waited in the restaurant until 7 a.m. as more and more people gathered.

Outside, musicians with a variety of wind instruments set up as did those who would lead the national dance of Catalunya: the Sardana. At 7:30 the band members started playing and several circles of dancers formed, each member’s hands were linked to the other and all had their arms raised high. Near the band, women set up long tables full of freshly-made and steaming thick hot cocoa and almond coffee cakes and biscuits. We warmed our hands with the cups of hot chocolate while staring out across the rough seas, hoping the thick cloud cover won’t obscure the event. I noticed that many people came prepared with blankets and sleeping bags and carried these partly down the rocky slopes where they perched, waiting for the big event. Others walk out to the edge of a rocky headland. Finally, a thin strip of pale yellow light appeared in the east. To the right, a tiny ball of orange. The crowd registered a collective “ahhh.” The dancing, cocoa drinking and almond cake munching continued until around 9 a. m. when most people wandered to their cars and we decided that, since we couldn’t feel our feet, it was time to get back into the car. Of all the things I’ve done to celebrate the New Year, this was probably the loveliest. A sure way to not only get in touch with Spain’s natural beauty but also its nationalistic people in the Catalan region.

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