Madrid Insider Advice

1. The most efficient and economical way of getting from one place to the other in Madrid is the Metro. If you plan on zipping all over the city, buy a 10-journey ticket at any metro station.

2. If you don't have a lot of cumbersome luggage, the hassle-free way to get from Barajas Airport to downtown is via the #8 Metro line that's right at the airport. However, you will have to change trains (at least once) to get to your final downtown destination.

3. Be wary of this scam used by pickpocketers all over the city: you're standing near a park when prodigious amounts of "bird poop" drops on you and two sweet, well-dressed young girls with water bottles and tissues rush to seemingly help you.

4. If you don't want to look like a tourist, don't order café con leche after 12 noon. It's a breakfast drink and should never be consumed with tapas or other afternoon/evening food items.

5. In the much-visited Retiro Park, don't miss the lakeside Palacio de Cristal, a glass pavilion with contemporary art exhibitions. Then wander to the park's east side across Paseo de Duque de Fernan Nunez for lovely gated formal gardens with peacocks, pergolas and water features.

6. On the south side of Retiro Park, you’ll find plants from all over the world as you wander past shady dells in the Royal Botanical Garden.

7. Near the airport but well worth the trip, El Capricho Park, open only on weekends, is known for its French, Italian and English-style gardens. It’s easy to spend the afternoon wandering around the shady grounds.

8. Giangrossi (Calle Velazquez, 44) is an artisanal ice cream chain that's usually packed but worth it to sample the many unusual and refreshing flavors, especially the mandarin and other fruits.

9. If you are a pastry fan, check out Mallorca (in Salamanca neighborhood on Calle Serrano), a chain store that has a wide array of miniature pastries, including éclairs, Napoleans and cream puffs.

10. Valentin del Barrio (Calle Moratin, 20) is an upscale leather goods shop (with a workshop downstairs) selling everything from portfolio cases to journalist's notebook covers. The family has been in the leather business since 1934.

11. Chocoholics should look no further than Cacao Sampaka (Calle Orellana, 4) for a quick fix of everything to do with the cocoa bean, including a shop to by gift items.

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Tallinn, A Trendy Medieval City

On my recent trip to Tallinn, the medieval capital city of Estonia, I found that it straddles a fine line between quaint and trendy. Its old quarter is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with ancient wall fortifications and a multitude of steeples piercing the skyline. Yet, this city, which will be European Cultural Capital 2011, is hardly stuck in the dark ages. In fact, quite the opposite. After all, Tallinn is home to Skype, the internet-based communications program.

Trendy restaurants, cafes, wine bars, galleries and boutique emporia can be found down many a cobbled lane. Last spring, an Asian fusion restaurant, Chedi, opened. Grilled Chilean sea bass with Chinese honey and stir-fried venison are a couple of the dishes served in this intimate space. The Gloria Wine Bar with its warren of cozy stone rooms and a fourth-floor attic that's home to Veini Pooning are two of Tallinn's most intimate bars to sample wine. One of the most curiously-named restaurants, Ö, meaning "island" in Swedish, serves up Euro cuisine that's heavy on Scandinavian and Estonian products. Diners sit among images of Rubens hung on the walls. Past tall cast iron gates, another restaurant, Egoist, is housed in a centuries-old mansion that's detailed with antiques galore.

Tallinn has no shortage of cozy cafes with fab pastries, including Chocolaterie, Kohvicum and Bonaparte. I particularly loved the tranquil outside courtyard at the former that serves creamy homemade truffles, including those filled with passion fruit and chiles. Bonaparte has a comfortable subdued interior where you enter through a rustic tall wooden door reminiscent of what you might find in a castle -- after all, the building dates to the late 13th century -- yet contemporary art hang on the walls. Here I devoured a very tasty red currant tart -- there are so many yummy pastries it's hard to choose.

The city's relatively new vanguard institution is the modernist Kamu Museum that's built into a limestone cliff and displays contemporary and classic art. You could spend the whole afternoon wandering the sun-filled interior. The Estonian Museum of Applied Art and Design didn't get a lot of tourist traffic when I was there but it's definitely worth a visit to see the works (from furniture to porcelain) of Estonian designers that they promote. More locally produced works can be found at Nu Nordik, a small shop chock full of creative, whimsical items, from T-shirts and pillows to jewelry and pottery. Reet Aus is an eco designer-owned shop selling very wearable, comfortable women's clothing.

On the accommodation front, these are my two picks: Three 14th century merchant homes serve as the home of Three Sisters, a boutique hotel that mixes old and new where no room is alike. An old wooden staircase spirals up to the rooms where some have claw foot tubs, four-poster beds and centuries-old wood beams. After dinner, a visit to their cellar wine bar makes a fine way to end the evening. Another accommodation, the Hotel Telegraaf is aptly named for the 19th century telegraph building where it's housed. Their spa offers Tibetan massage as well as wraps using a Balinese recipe.

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10 Cool, New Shops in Reykjavik

I promised you more on Reykjavik and here it is. 2008 has seen a lot of new, renovated or relocated restaurants, shops and other venues. And, I'm crossing my fingers that, despite the economic crash, they all survive and thrive. Here's what I found on my recent trip: 1. O The former Siggi Hall restaurant has a new life as O, an upscale restaurant in Hotel Odinsve with chef Eythor Runarsson -- he's on the Icelandic Culinary team -- at the helm. They're serving a menu that's focused on new Nordic cuisine. Among the delicacies on the menu: arctic char with pistachios, and salted cod with sugared cabbage. 2. Lykkjufall — They're not new but they just relocated to a new space. Specializing in unique clothing designed for women who are breast-feeding, the store attracts plenty of women (including myself) who are not breast-feeding yet who clamor for these stylish items. 3. Hemmi and Valdi — Where else can you work on your laptop at 10 p.m. beside people casually drinking a glass of wine, sipping a cappuccino or strumming a guitar while the kids are using crayons to sketch? This is a cosy bar -- though I use the term loosely -- with card games and crayons scattered about and decorated with second-hand furniture that's all for sale. Once I settled in, I didn't want to leave. 4. Emm — Combining a designer clothing store and a cosmetics shop, Emm is oriented to satisfying the needs of the strong, independent women. The fashionable, wearable, trendy items (e-label) all revolve around a sophisticated black color palette, perfect for New Yorkers like myself. Women owned and designed, the store also is home to MM, a cosmetics shop where you can reserve a girl's afternoon of make-up, hair and cocktails. 5. Kryddlegin Hjorta — In my opinion, this new restaurant -- the name is the Icelandic equivalent of the movie title: Like Water for Chocolate -- has one of the best views of the waterfront with the majestic peaks in the distance. Don't expect a menu here. The owner cooks whatever suits her mood at the moment. But it's all great. Everything is organic -- at least it is right now but who knows; that could change with the economic downturn. Lunch is soup, bread and salad but it's something not to miss. I had one of the four soups, the Thai chicken soup with peanuts and chili and, if I had room, I would've had seconds. She also bakes all the thick, healthy breads, like spelt with barley. They only serve dinner on weekends when you also might be treated to drumming night -- her husband is a drummer who has traveled the world. 6. Blue Lagoon Spa — This is not the famous Blue Lagoon not far from the airport. It's a very convenient, new downtown spa with Blue Lagoon treatments. You can soak in a jacuzzi that sits under a small waterfall, sign up for a algae, silica and lava mud scrub or an algae wrap. They also have a very reasonable day-pass so you have full use of the health club. This is a place where you could spend an entire day, or at least the afternoon. 7. Boston Bar — Though the bar isn't new the menu they're serving is. Plus, they now have Bjork's chef, Numi Thomasson, cooking up some simple but tasty options. Only five dishes are served, including citrus garlic herb chicken leg with brown curry rice, and spotted catfish with warm pear and blue cheese sauce. Even if you're not hungry, Boston is one of Reykjavik's loveliest bars, without all the crazy frenzy you see in so many nightspots. (Plus it's also open for lunch.) 8. Aftur — Not new but just expanded its quarters and also it's now open every day of the week. All the clothes are made from recycled clothes and no two are alike. They're all fun and function. I especially coveted the hooded wool capes. Perfect for snowy days in New York when I also need to look fashionable. 9. Kaffi Hljomalind — This non-profit coop just moved to a new location on the main shopping street. It's an amazing social spot considering it's a vegetarian cafe that also houses an art gallery, political library and much more. When I was there, they had a calendar on the wall listing yoga classes, tango lesson, live music performances and independent films. It's another quaint spot to hang out for several hours. The grilled cheese with sundried tomatoes is particularly yummy. 10. Fotografi — This photo gallery and retail shop opened a year ago but the walls are now hung with more of the work of the three owner/photographers. They've got some very avant garde images as well as gorgeous Iceland/Reykjavik-related scenes. If you love anything to do with photography, you must visit this friendly and creative venue. I stopped by twice during one weekend because I felt I missed some treasure. They also host some nice temporary exhibitions in the rear gallery.

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