Stunning Hiking Venues

 Wherever I travel, I include outdoor activities, whether cycling, hiking, walking or cross-country skiing. These are three venues that offer phenomenal hiking opportunities. 

Hut-to-hut hiking in the Dolomites is a rigorous but enchanting experience.

To truly experience the drama and beauty of the Grand Canyon, I hiked all the way down to Phantom Ranch, stayed overnight and then hiked back up the next day. (Going down is definitely harder on your legs.)

All my many trips to Norway involved outdoor adventures, including hiking in Jotunheimen National Park.

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Europe's Five Best Bicycle Routes

Bicycling, one of my favorite means of traveling, isn't just a mode of transportation. More importantly, it's a way to get in touch with the land and its people. It's the ultimate way to stop and smell the roses, to use a cliche. I recently wrote about five great bicycle routes in Europe for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel.

These are just a few of my endearing and surprising finds along those routes: 

• In Norway's Lofoten Islands, guests can overnight in the sometimes Spartan rorbuer or fishermans' cottages, and even cast a line through a hole punctured in the floor.

• A shock of pink may sweep across the Sinis Peninsula on Sardinia's West Coast as flocks of flamingos congregate.

• Those who island hop with their bicycle along the Dalmatian Coast in Croatia will find that a large expanse of bucolic Mljet Island is taken up by a national park with a unique feature: a pair of saltwater lakes encircled by pines (a 12th century Benedictine monastery sits on an islet in the larger of the two.)

• When cycling in the northern Peloponnese peninsula in Greece, it's not unusual to zip down steep sections where a symphony of bells herald herds of goats and sheep crossing the road.

• Even novice cyclists can happily ride through the fairy-tale world of Germany's Black Forest because the southern route eliminates the heart-pounding ascents this sylvan landscape -- it includes some Ice Age-remnants and verdant nature reserves --  is noted for.

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Top Parks, Gardens and Green Spaces in Taiwan

With its myriad parks, gardens and myriad other green spaces, Taiwan is a country for those who seek out venues that radiate a sense of calm. Sure, there are rugged mountainous regions where you can test out your mettle on vertiginous paths that will leave you breathless. But there are also bundles of family-friendly venues laced with flat, paved bicycle paths. My article for the Huffington Post introduces you to a few of these verdant landscapes.

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Birding In Cuba

I arrived in Cuba (on a tour with International Expeditions) not to sample the coffee, some with elaborate foam art displaying the visage of Che Guevara; watch the daily street parade of 1950s automobiles; dance to son, danzon, rumba or other Cuban music; or sip a mojito in a Havana bar that Hemingway frequented. No, I came to check out the bird scene because, beyond this island nation's signature sights and activities is a verdant landscape brimming with bird species. 

I recently wrote about my birding experiences in Cuba for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel.

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National Park Treasures Without The Crowds

Who wouldn't want to experience the magic of Yellowstone, Yosemite, the Grand Canyon or a host of other national parks? But the first thing that comes to mind for me when I think of visiting these parks in high season is fighting off the crowds.


So what if I told you that it's possible to have all the magic without all the madness? You'd probably think I was delusional. Check out my latest piece for The Huffington Post and you'll see from the accompanying slide show that you don't have to sacrifice scenery for sanity.

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Aruba Beyond the Casinos & Beaches

A trip to Aruba hardly sounds like a workout, unless it means pumping your biceps at the slot machines. But if you manage to pull yourself away, as I frequently did, from the main town of Oranjestad and it's warm, breezy beaches, plenty of calorie-burning hikes as well as interesting sights loaded with natural beauty await.

1. Arikok National Park provides plenty of hiking opportunities in a dramatic arid land laden with rolling hills. I walked many of the cacti-lined paths that wind past boulders, crevices, rock outcrops and the bizarely-shaped divi-divi trees. Here I found dozens of marked trails leading to caves with petroglyphs dating thousands of years ago, ruins of gold mines, and a re-creation of an island settlement from 200 years ago.


2. Both Ayo and Casibari are littered with oddly-shaped giant boulders. I followed the dirt paths and stone steps up and over and between the boulders of Ayo. The giant rock formations, covered with petroglyphs, seem so out of place, as if they were just dropped on the arid landscape, that you won't wonder why it's often referred to as the "Stonehenge of Aruba."

3. Climb steep often narrow stone steps to the top of Casibari for a view of the surrounding cactus garden and of Haystack Mountain in the distance.

4. At the center of the island, Haystack Mountain (Mount Hooiberg) can be seen from almost anywhere. After climbing several hundred stops to the summit of this cone-shaped volcanic rock, I was able to glimpse the coast of Venezuela, a view that's only possible on a clear day, in the distance.

5. The highest point in Aruba, Mt. Jamanota, can be reached by driving part way up and then taking one of the dirt paths to the top.

6. Many visitors don't realize it but Aruba has some great bird watching options. For example, not far from Orangestad, Bubali Pond, a bird sanctuary, provides plenty of opportunities to spot herons and egrets.


7. Getting to Natural Pool isn't easy: it requires at least a brisk half hour walk once you park the car or some serious off-roading where your vehicle has to navigate over a heavy-duty rocky surface. But this off-the-beaten-path pristine pool is worth it. Here you can snorkel, swim or just hang out on the rocks on the windward coast enjoying the views. You'll feel like you're completely isolated from civilization, which you are.

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Madrid Insider Advice

1. The most efficient and economical way of getting from one place to the other in Madrid is the Metro. If you plan on zipping all over the city, buy a 10-journey ticket at any metro station.

2. If you don't have a lot of cumbersome luggage, the hassle-free way to get from Barajas Airport to downtown is via the #8 Metro line that's right at the airport. However, you will have to change trains (at least once) to get to your final downtown destination.

3. Be wary of this scam used by pickpocketers all over the city: you're standing near a park when prodigious amounts of "bird poop" drops on you and two sweet, well-dressed young girls with water bottles and tissues rush to seemingly help you.

4. If you don't want to look like a tourist, don't order café con leche after 12 noon. It's a breakfast drink and should never be consumed with tapas or other afternoon/evening food items.

5. In the much-visited Retiro Park, don't miss the lakeside Palacio de Cristal, a glass pavilion with contemporary art exhibitions. Then wander to the park's east side across Paseo de Duque de Fernan Nunez for lovely gated formal gardens with peacocks, pergolas and water features.

6. On the south side of Retiro Park, you’ll find plants from all over the world as you wander past shady dells in the Royal Botanical Garden.

7. Near the airport but well worth the trip, El Capricho Park, open only on weekends, is known for its French, Italian and English-style gardens. It’s easy to spend the afternoon wandering around the shady grounds.

8. Giangrossi (Calle Velazquez, 44) is an artisanal ice cream chain that's usually packed but worth it to sample the many unusual and refreshing flavors, especially the mandarin and other fruits.

9. If you are a pastry fan, check out Mallorca (in Salamanca neighborhood on Calle Serrano), a chain store that has a wide array of miniature pastries, including éclairs, Napoleans and cream puffs.

10. Valentin del Barrio (Calle Moratin, 20) is an upscale leather goods shop (with a workshop downstairs) selling everything from portfolio cases to journalist's notebook covers. The family has been in the leather business since 1934.

11. Chocoholics should look no further than Cacao Sampaka (Calle Orellana, 4) for a quick fix of everything to do with the cocoa bean, including a shop to by gift items.

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Adventure Sports in Israel

In Israel, all year long, all you have to do is drive and you'll find a climate conducive to some sport, whether skiing in the north or diving in the south. There's something for everyone, from true thrill seekers to soft adventure enthusiasts.

1. The annual Tour of the Dead Sea bicycle rally, promoting awareness of this ever-shrinking body of water, is a single or multi-day event. The rides attracts more than 1,000 riders from around the world (including myself) who ride past Ein Gedi, an oasis with lush vegetation, and Mineral Beach where sore riders can slather their legs in the therapeutic Dead Sea black mud.

2. The Negev offers marked and unmarked trails along wadis (stream beds) and other paths that are perfect for walking or mountain biking. In this vast triangular-shaped enchanting swatch of arid land, enormous sandstone cliffs are streaked with a rainbow of colors and Nabatean ruins provide a window into the days of the ancient Spice Route. These trails course through river valleys, beside acacia, white broom and other flora, past oases where endangered ibex may be found, and across the Makhtesh Ramon, a unique erosion crater.

For cycling aficionados like myself, the Isrotel Ramon Inn was the perfect accommodation for exploring the nearby Makhtesh Ramon. After all, they have bicycle guides, a bike repair shop, bike-friendly snacks and lunches (high in protein or carbs).

3. In the steep-sided Tamar Canyon, I had a short but interesting adventure as we negotiated down slick rock using metal hand and foot holds fastened into the rock. At other times, we used ropes that are permanently attached to the rock fact to assist us down a slick chute. Then the more courageous rappelled down several 60-foot cliff faces while I climbed down a series of via ferratas.

I had complete confidence in my guide, Adam Sela, who specializes in custom desert excursions and extreme activities, including canyoning, rappelling, zip lines, hiking safaris and mountain biking expeditions. Each trip is custom-made and could include everything from fully catered camping safaris to outings that start and finish at resorts. They even can arrange a helicopter to shuttle you from one activity and venue to the next.

4. Mount Carmel, Israel's largest national park, presents almost endless hiking and walking possibilities with paths coursing past Aleppo pines, the only remaining natural population of this old growth forest in the country, through forests of laurel, oak and carob with views of the Mediterranean and Haifa far below. Interestingly, within the park boundaries in this area that's often known as Little Switzerland are two Druze towns as well as a Carmelite monastery.

5. Ein Gedi, a nature reserve on the shores of the Dead Sea, is an oasis in the arid land with several springs, dense tropical flora and a variety of animals that are attracted to the waters, such as endangered ibex and hyrax. In one of two canyon trails, palms and pines rise above you with the sound of a waterfall accompanying you. On the second canyon hike, you'll find ruins of a sanctuary from 3,000 BC while another walk leads to a Byzantine-era synagogue with a decorative mosaic floor.

6. Water sport options abound in Israel, whether it's kayaking the Jordan River, diving in the Eilat area in the south or, maybe even more interesting from a historical perspective, in Caesarea National Park where you can dive in what was once King Herod's elaborate port. Along the four underwater routes are artifacts that include remains of a medieval tower and a Herodian pavement.

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Finally Finding Kornati National Park

On my recent trip to Croatia, I had my heart set on visiting Kornati National Park, a unique archipelago with more than 150 islands that present a barren, almost lunar landscape. I was told that it was a land of limestone mounds -- some resembling snow, vertical cliffs and isolated patches of olive, fig and juniper. It's a lovely day trip from the city of Zadar. But I found out the hard way that few of the tour boats hawking their trips from the harbor actually cross into the national park boundaries. And, it turned out, the boat I was on was of these. Hard to believe, because the trip was booked through someone associated with the Croatian Tourist Board in the U.S. I confirmed everything with Fortuna Travel, the agency in Zadar they recommended, and yes, they said, the boat was going to Karnati. So you can imagine my surprise when I'm about to set foot on the m/b Fazanka and I look at the map on the brochure I'm given and it didn't look like the Kornati Islands were on the itinerary. When I spoke to one of the crew they told me that the boat is going to the islands that should be part of the national park and that it was all a political thing. It's just a matter of where the lines were drawn, I was told. Now I knew I was in trouble. After quite a bit of back and forth with him saying I'd still have a good time and me saying it's like going to the building adjacent to the Empire State Building and saying it's still a good view, the boat took off. Instead of stopping in the archipelago, we visited a couple of green islands, including Dugi Otok, aka Long Island, which is quite lush and noted for Telascica Nature Park. I walked to the cliffs on one side of the island and then through the forest to a lovely but crowded salt-water lake. This was all well and good but it wasn't the national park. The other people on the boat didn't seem to mind. As long as they were fed and had time to swim and sun. The bottom line is that few boats go to the national park. One that does go is the Plava Laguna. If you are in Zadar and you want to go to this archipelago, check out the brochures and if you see a nature park or a salt-water lake on the brochure, turn around and find another vendor. Because you won't be going to Kornati.

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