Showing posts with label boat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label boat. Show all posts

Monday, December 12, 2011

Montenegro 4 Ways: Hike, Walk, Ferry + Float

When I signed up for a trip to Montenegro with Ramblers Worldwide Holidays based out of the U.K., I didn't know what to expect. But I did know that the company specialized in hiking and walking tours and I decided that would be the best way to see Montenegro, a country that doesn't get the kind of tourist traffic yet that its neighbor, Croatia, sees.


 When I met my group -- they all hailed from the UK making me the lone American -- I found out that none of us were thrill seekers. Many hoped there wouldn't be any knife-edge precipices. Others preferred to stay away from long, steep climbs. But we all adored nature. And basing out of scenic Kotor Bay, we found plenty of landscapes to admire. This is my piece for the Huffington Post describing my week of hiking, walking, ferrying and floating through Montenegro.

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Monday, January 5, 2009

CROATIAN BICYCLE & BOAT ADVENTURE


Combining a land and sea adventure is one of the best ways to explore so many of Croatia's delights. So I signed up with a Canadian-based company, Pedal & Sea Adventures which offered a low-key, value-for-the-money trip -- they paired up with a German adventure tour company that handled the land operations. The newest boat they operate is the Romantica, a 110-foot-long teak and mahogany motor cruiser that was manned and personally built by the young handsome captain and his 25 Croatian friends and colleagues. For someone so young -- he's under 40 -- he did an amazing job of deftly maneuvering our ship into each of the often crowded ports. Our cabins were comfy and cozy and each day they prepared meals centered on locally-sourced ingredients where fresh fish, fruits and vegetables were abundant. We needed all the calories we could devour because we spent most of each day cycling 30 to 40 miles or so up and down a multitude of hills through the heart of each island. But there were always options to either hang on the ship taking in the sun or cycling only part of the way on each island.


Mljet, Sipan, Korcula,
Vis, Hvar and Brac each had a distinct personality both scenically and historically. Sipan is unspoiled and covered with thick pine and cypress forests that hide old chapels, fortresses and the summer villas once occupied by Dubrovnik's rich.

On Mljet we rode past fig trees into a national park that's home to a unique feature: two interconnected salt water lakes. In the middle of one sits an islet where we found a 12th century Benedictine monastery.

Korcula, the supposed home of Marco Polo, has roads that wind past vineyards that grow the unique Posip grape, and later along an allee of lime trees in the town of Blato.

We were lucky to arrive in Vis because usually the seas are too rough for the crossing. Here we found the tranquil fishing village of Komiza where a Venetian fortress is now home to a maritime museum. Later we were delighted to take a break at Vinoteka where the family has been making wine for 200 years. (They served us sheep cheese, anchovies and proscuitto.)

Hvar gets plenty of tourist traffic but we avoided most of it by pedaling on roads where vendors sell lavender and cherry liquors from roadside stands. Later, we spent time in the old town of Stari Grad where a noted 16th century poet built an amazing summer palace. In the late afternoon, we took the optional bike ride to seaside villages and small towns pierced by church steeples.

Brac's most noteworthy feature is the Golden Horn, an unusual 1,300-foot-long sandy tongue that constantly changes shape. Famous for its white limestone -- it was used in the White House and other notable edifices -- Brac is blessed with placid hillside villages with tall bell towers and where men still sit astride donkeys. It's hard to be bored or disappointed on this Pedal & Sea trip because every day brought an interesting adventure. And I found a broad cross-section of friendly guests -- young and old alike from all over North America -- so you're bound to find a kindred spirit to hang out with.

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Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Finally Finding Kornati National Park


On my recent trip to Croatia, I had my heart set on visiting Kornati National Park, a unique archipelago with more than 150 islands that present a barren, almost lunar landscape. I was told that it was a land of limestone mounds -- some resembling snow, vertical cliffs and isolated patches of olive, fig and juniper. It's a lovely day trip from the city of Zadar. But I found out the hard way that few of the tour boats hawking their trips from the harbor actually cross into the national park boundaries. And, it turned out, the boat I was on was of these. Hard to believe, because the trip was booked through someone associated with the Croatian Tourist Board in the U.S. I confirmed everything with Fortuna Travel, the agency in Zadar they recommended, and yes, they said, the boat was going to Karnati. So you can imagine my surprise when I'm about to set foot on the m/b Fazanka and I look at the map on the brochure I'm given and it didn't look like the Kornati Islands were on the itinerary. When I spoke to one of the crew they told me that the boat is going to the islands that should be part of the national park and that it was all a political thing. It's just a matter of where the lines were drawn, I was told. Now I knew I was in trouble. After quite a bit of back and forth with him saying I'd still have a good time and me saying it's like going to the building adjacent to the Empire State Building and saying it's still a good view, the boat took off. Instead of stopping in the archipelago, we visited a couple of green islands, including Dugi Otok, aka Long Island, which is quite lush and noted for Telascica Nature Park. I walked to the cliffs on one side of the island and then through the forest to a lovely but crowded salt-water lake. This was all well and good but it wasn't the national park. The other people on the boat didn't seem to mind. As long as they were fed and had time to swim and sun. The bottom line is that few boats go to the national park. One that does go is the Plava Laguna. If you are in Zadar and you want to go to this archipelago, check out the brochures and if you see a nature park or a salt-water lake on the brochure, turn around and find another vendor. Because you won't be going to Kornati.
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