A Colorful Chilean City

With a network of steep streets set on hillsides that are also sliced by equally steep staircases, Valparaiso
reminds me of a rustic but much more charming San Francisco. Just over an hour from Santiago, Chile, this port town is probably most identified by its 14 funiculars that drop off residents and visitors alike among the brightly painted clapboard houses. What a cool way of getting around this hilly city but, after taking a couple of these, I chose to walk to get a more intimate feel of the land. A walking tour is a slow endeavor, to be sure, not only because of the aerobic workout required to get about, but, more importantly, because of the many distractions including the boldly-painted murals along an endless array of facades.

This UNESCO World Heritage Site is also dotted with several museums, from the Fine Arts Museum
that's housed in an early 20th century mansion to another that faces a panoramic viewpoint and displays the cartoons of journalist, Renzo Pecchenino, aka Lucas

Valparaiso's Central Market, where vendors hawk prickly pear, miniature avocados, giant brown seaweed and many more items, is a must-see before boarding the circa 1910 funicular.

But, though the town has a quaint aura, there are accommodations that radiate luxury. Casa Higueras, a restored mansion from the 1930s that went through a $2 million restoration in late 2006, is a sophisticated 20-room boutique property that provides guests with an infinity pool that hangs over the hill and an outside blue-tiled Jacuzzi. Rooms have plenty of antique touches, whether it's an old writing desk or a tiled fireplace. I enjoyed lunch at their restaurant, Montealegre, that features local-sourced seafood and amazing views -- after it, I sat on lovely umbrella-shaded terrace high above the city's port. My overnight was spent at the amazing Hotel Zero, which was once a house dating from 1880. Some of the nine rooms provide views of the sea but all come with alpaca blankets, Egyptian cotton sheets and work by local artists. (Despite so many sights to check out, I found it hard to leave this accommodation.) Interestingly, the name, Zero, refers to a "back to basics' approach, which translates to the idea that the hotel should be thought of as your home. In the terraced garden lush with bougainvillea and almond trees, I sipped first a beverage blended from cherimoya and then a glass of white wine while snacking on on olives and goat cheese.

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More Chilean Hacienda Happenings

I promised you more on my adventures at the Hacienda Tres Lagos in Chile's Aysen region. I packed a lot into a weekend:

1. My guide took me fly fishing to a point located between the teal blue Lake Bertrand (teal blue) and sea blue colored Lake General Carrera. I was hoping to catch any of four types of trout: steelhead, brown, rainbow and spotted. I'm told the biggest fish a guest pulled in was 40 pounds! But I'm suffering from bad technique. My guide told me I need more upper body and wrist action in the final cast to shoot the line out further. Oh well. No trout, 40 pounds or otherwise. But the views were outstanding: towering peaks studded with glaciers. It was oh, so peaceful, except for the sound of the currents.

2. One day we drove to Lake Bertrand where I found out that the fly fishing is alright if you hop aboard a raft and paddle to the middle of Rio Baker. (This river is also great for rafting the class III rapids). The lake, however, has too many people vying for too few fish. Instead we continued on to the confluence of the Rio Baker and the Rio Neff. There was a beautiful viewpoint of the raging Baker cascading over boulders.

3. Later we trolled on Lake Bertrand hoping to catch something. It didn't matter, however, because the views of the Fuentes Glacier were phenomenal. Finally, another try at fly fishing Lago General Carrera, this time it's evening so I'm hoping for better luck. But, no. Not a bite. Yet the purplish-colored peaks and wisps of clouds over the glaciers made it all worth it.

4. The next day was my fab excursion to the Marble Caves where we hopped aboard a small motor boat to cruise parallel to the shore. Here, there were soaring sea cliffs of marble. And thanks to wind and sea erosions their features are cast into curious formations that look like tree trunks and arches and caves, some wide enough just for the boat to pass through. Looking into the water I found colorful marble formations below as well. The Cathedral and the Chapel are the most famous.

5. Another amazing excursion was to the Explorer Valley on the gravel road that's only three years old. Before it was built, the only way into this area was on horseback. Glacier and ice studded peaks are all about and water running down from the high country to the roadside, with the occasional cascading waterfall. This is a road that's hard to drive because you want to look everywhere but at the road. Finally, we arrived at a short interpretive trail: Sendero Interpretivo Glacier Exploradores. The plants in this lush terrain are all labeled, including a fern with a name that means ribs of the cow and the holy tree. We climbed steeply among boulders that are part of a glacial moraine. And there in front of us was the bluish-tinged Explorer Glacier.
6. My last trek was on the day we had to drive to the airport. I managed a short hike to a lovely viewpoint where you can peer at both Lago Negro and Lago Carrera. We also passed the point where you could do a canopy tour but, alas, time didn't allow it. Hopefully, next time I'll spend a week.

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A Hacienda for Mellow & Type A Alike

In Chile’s little visit Aysen region, the Hacienda Tres Lagos couldn’t be more appropriately named. After all, the 18-room property sits among three magnificent lakes, each bearing a different blue or greenish hue: Lago Bertrand, Negro and General Carrera. After being picked up at the Balmaceda Airport, I found out it’s at least a five-hour journey to the doorstep of my accommodation. But the scenery of lakes, serrated peaks, wild horses, tumbling rivers and the eerie Bosque Muerto – an area of dead trees amongst thick volcanic ash – was plenty and pleasantly distracting. Once I set foot on the property and entered a lovely study with twin telescopes, I was immediately presented with a welcome pisco sour. A good way to wake up.

But, more than anything, what I soon noticed was the utter silence enveloping the hacienda. And I’m especially sensitive to this as a native New Yorker who falls asleep with the noises of a subway rumbling below the street. I walked to my luxe log bungalow and immediately wished I was spending a week here. Sliding glass doors opened to a porch with views of Lago Negro and far beyond are ice covered peaks. It was spacious, simple and comfortable with a soaring wood-beam ceiling, rough log walls, a wood burning stove and a bamboo rod for hanging clothes. It’s an interesting mix of the old and the new: sitting beside my bedside was an iPod docking station. And, though I was frustrated knowing I didn’t bring my iPod, no worries, I was told. Within moments they handed me one loaded with 175 songs, many were way better and more interesting than the ones I had at home.

The old and new theme is found also in the main house where I checked out an array of artifacts: the antique locks, old coffee grinder and mortar and pestle in the dining room and curious ceramic vessels in the study.

Aside from the placid atmosphere and yummy food (my first dinner was hearts of palm, grilled salmon and lemon meringue pie), I found the staff more than gracious and helpful. On the multitude of excursions they arrange and provide, they bring along a digital camera to take photos of the guests and then burn a CD for you; they also tote along binoculars – of course I forgot these as well. A bit chilly? Again, not to worry: they’ve got a wool poncho and a cowboy hat to lend you. Can’t figure out how to get the fire going in your wood burning stove? They are expert fire builders.

The next morning, I awoke to see horses grazing in front of my windows and the mountains were glowing with the rays of the rising sun. I could get used to this. Every meal had something regional to choose from: at dinner there was a steak topped with a fried egg; for breakfast it was homemade manjar, which is cooked milk with sugar, made into a paste and spread on bread. And then there’s the traditional asado in which a fresh lamb is cooked on a vertical spit in an open brick oven.

I found lakefront amenities galore, including a sauna, massage room and a Jacuzzi. Sure there was more peace and quiet than I was used to. But as a type A person, the Hacienda was my kind of place: they offered so many activities that you could easily spend more than a week here and never be bored -- horseback riding; a boat tour on Negro and Carrera lakes; fly fishing; whitewater rafting on Rio Baker; snorkeling Lake Negro; mountain biking; and several hikes up a mountain bearing fossils, through a valley where you could spy eagles, along lakefronts, to an old gold mine or a small hamlet. So many choices, so little time.

In a few days, I’ll post some of my activities while lodging at the Hacienda Tres Lagos.

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