Art and Architecture in Reykjavik

Reykjavik, Iceland is a city of art. Street murals dot the landscape, both along the main streets as well as in the Grandi neighborhood -- a former industrial fishing area -- that's burgeoning with new shops, and restaurants.

And, for art aficionados, Harpa, the opera house, is not to be missed. It’s stunning, both acoustically and architecturally. Stroll through the interior and you'll see how the hexagon-shaped glass panels perfectly frame the waterfront vistas

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My Highly Commended Travel Blog for Advice on Iceland

Among all the countries I've visited, Iceland, by far, is right at the top of my favorites list. It has everything I hold dear: pristine landscapes, nature-based activities, a capital that's brimming with culture, young chefs doing very cool things in their restaurants in Reykjavik and elsewhere in the country. Iceland is always listed as one of the top five happiest countries in the world. They do just about everything right: they were the first to take in Syrian refugees. When the government was in financial crisis in 2008, they became the only government to put the bankers responsible in prison. Iceland was the first country to have a democratically-elected female president - and she was in office for 16 years. My list of what's great about Iceland could go on. I often blog about my favorite country here. And, as a result, Asher Fergusson, an Australian with a large following, selected J The Travel Authority from among 700 around the world travel blogs as one that's highly commended for its posts on Iceland.

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Iceland - A Country Where Writers Are Revered

Do you consider yourself a writer? Maybe you have a brilliant idea for a book and you've been jotting down notes on Post-Its and hiding them from family members for fear they'll laugh at you. Or you secretly write poems, scribbling them on napkins and jamming them in your bag, hoping they won't fly out when you're on a date. You're not a writer, after all, because you didn't get a degree in creative writing or you've never published anything, right? And if you attended a cocktail party and told anyone you're a writer, would they ask you what you're working on, or would they ask what's your day job?

In Iceland, if you asked a crowd of citizens "Who's a writer?" or "Who's a poet?" you could expect a dozens and dozens of hands to go up. In this wild, wonderful country, most everyone wants to be a writer. Iceland also has more writers per capita than any other country in the world.

What better way to become inspired (as a writer) than attending a writers retreat, not a pretentious one where you feel stifled because of the competition, but a warm, welcoming, inclusive one. I just published an article for the Huffington Post on Iceland's vast literary tradition that goes back to its founding, and the most inspiring of writers retreats: the Iceland Writers Retreat held in Reykjavik. This is the writers retreat for you because, even if no one has ever seen what you've penned, you are a writer.

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Reykjavik in Pictures

Reykjavik is one of my favorite cities in the world: full of culture and striking views of mountains and sea, with an ever-present sense of the quirky. So it's a perfect venue for a writer to create and be inspired. No wonder it's the site of the second annual Iceland Writers Retreat that I participated in. Between workshops, receptions, meals, a literary walking tour, and lots of coffee and pastries, I roamed the wee downtown where there's beauty around every corner. 

This short YouTube video slideshow provides a small window into why I love Iceland's capital city. 

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European Cemeteries That Resemble Botanical Gardens

It's a shame that cemeteries are typically associated with the macabre, where supernatural influences are ever present. On many of my travels, I've come to appreciate cemeteries as open-air museums and botanical gardens. I chose to visit one treasured cemetery in Lisbon, Reykjavik, Valletta, Zagreb and Helsinki for what they each could tell me about indigenous plants, renowned artists, notable politicians, and much more. Find out what I discovered about botany, architecture, and sociology in this article on the loveliest European cemeteries that I recently wrote for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel.

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My Love Affair With Reykjavik

Sure, Iceland is plenty exotic but I don't think most of my friends quite understand why I have long fallen in love with its petite capital city, Reykjavik. Maybe it's because in this land of fire and ice I can hang out at the beach in July and plop into a hot tub that's set just offshore. Or maybe it's because their eclectic designers satisfy my desire for wild, wacky, yet stylish, accoutrements, such as a handbag fashioned from dried codfish skin. It might have something to do with the fact that I enjoy strolling into coffee shops that have a sense of character, unlike the cookie-cutter Starbucks that have blossomed all over most major cities. Or perhaps it's because even their new concert hall, Harpa, allows me to have an intimate connection with the mountain and sea scapes beyond.

If you're interested in why I have a love affair with Reykjavik, check out the interview I did with Maria and Anthony Russo, founders of the online magazine, The Culture-Ist. You'll find plenty of travel tips that might surprise even those of you who are Reykjavik savvy.

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Reykjavik's All-Day Culture Night

As I stood on a line snaking down a steep set of stairs in a narrow white-washed house and out the front door, and down a curvy path to the sidewalk, I thought that only in Reykjavik, Iceland would the locals and visitors alike be able to hang out in the house of the city councilman who stands over the stove cooking waffles that you could then nibble on with a generous dollop of whipped cream.

That's exactly what I did recently on one of the most special Saturdays of the year in this petite city. The capital's Culture Night -- it should really be renamed Culture Day & Night since the multitude of events go on from early morning to after 11 pm -- is a 15-year-old annual festival of art, music, dance, crafts, design, food (and more) that attracts thousands of people.

This year saw the inauguration of Harpa, Reykjavik's architecturally-noteworthy concert hall and conference center that glistens along the old harbor. After Iceland's economic collapse in 2008, this cultural center is bringing new life to the waterfront, especially given the curiosity factor the building provides: Some 1,000 hexagon-shaped glass bricks reflect and refract the ever-changing light and the landscape of sky and sea.

Culture Night always starts with the marathon that attracts participants from all over -- on my flight from JFK, I sat next to two women runners from San Francisco. (Many of the city streets are closed to vehicles because of the marathon route.) Children can participate in their own 1.1 km or 700-meter runs and, from the crowds of parents with toddlers in tow, it was very popular.

With a massive three-page Culture Night schedule in hand, I packed in as many cultural events as possible within 14 hours or so. And that included stopping at the city councilman's house for waffles and cream. I joined a handful of others sitting in his living room enjoying the sun pouring through the windows of the second floor, checking out his CD collection and admiring the artwork hung on the walls. (And, of course, the cloud-like waffles and sweet cream.)

At the Reykjavik Museum Harbor House -- one of many museums that wave the admission fee and extend their normal hours on this Saturday -- I watched children attempting to solve a giant jigsaw puzzle from one of Erro's (a pop artist) paintings.

At another branch of this museum, I explored an exhibition dedicated to the Icelandic horse, which has long played a significant role in the life of the nation. Interestingly, a few paintings showed a mythological sensibility while one was quite apocalyptic

Outside the pond-side City Hall, children played chess at a row of tables.

As I rounded a corner, I ran into a clutch of people who are part of a historical walking tour of the city.

Then it was on to the National Museum of Iceland where I had the opportunity to embroider my name on a table cloth using a traditional stitch.

I strolled down the street to the lawn adjacent to the National Gallery where I found Sola, the storyteller, dressed in a long crimson dress, and her story mobile, a van displaying a boldly-colored image of a young girl reading a book as she reclines in a dragon's paw.

The day (and night) was packed with activity after activity: Bollywood dance classes, calligraphy workshops, flea markets, violin recitals, jazz and rock bands, Tai Chi demonstrations, photo exhibitions.

At 10:45 pm, LED strips that line the glass blocks in Harpa lit the facade for the first time with myriad colors that will keep the building glowing through the long Icelandic winters. And then the sky brightened with a stellar fireworks display at 11pm along the harbor.

Even though I visit Reykjavik almost every year, I think I'll most miss the city this year because of Culture Night. It's an event that intimately connects you with the life of the city and its people -- something I'd like to experience year after year.

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My Secret Reykjavik Tips

Iceland is one of my specialties and I've blogged about it frequently.This endearing country, especially the tiny capital city of Reykjavik, is a wealth of treasures, though many tourists simply stop off at the Blue Lagoon after they arrive at Kevlavik Airport, spend barely a day in the city before heading off on the Golden Circle or other tours of pristine parks, gushing geysers and cascading waterfalls.


But Reykjavik has so much to offer. I've spend at least 4 to 5 days in the city each time I visit and I always find plenty of culturally interesting and active adventures as well as gourmet delights. These are some of my favorite little-known activities in Reykjavik. Check it out and next time you head for the land of fire and ice, save some time for these.

1. 871 +/- 2: The Settlement Exhibition, is a curious name for a museum. But it makes sense, considering that’s Iceland’s approximate settlement date. Located on the exact spot where they found the ruins of a 10th century longhouse, this archeological museum stands beside a major hotel. If you steer clear of archeologic museums, be warned that this one is hardly chock full of dull exhibits. It’s quite interactive with holographic-type images and sounds of the time, from knife making to cowbells.

2. Not far away along the quay, the Reykjavik Art Museum - Harbor House features the pop oeuvre of noted Icelandic artist, Erro. But the museum also regularly hosts temporary exhibits that are quite innovative. (This is one of the three Reykjavik Art Museums in the city and each is worth visiting for the pastiche of often colorful abstract works as well as inspired landscapes on display.

3. Nearby is a warehouse that’s home to the Saturday morning flea market. It’s bric-a-brac laden but it’s the food court that’s worth visiting. Often, you can sample some of the typical food items found in every Icelander’s home, including potato bread, rugbraud (malt bread), dried catfish and the infamous fermented shark meat. I was warned to avoid the latter but accidentally sampled a small cube that was offered to me on a toothpick. After finding it tasteless after initially chewing it, the full power of the ammonia-laden meat became overwhelming.

4. I’m not necessarily a big fan of visiting cemeteries but Reykjavik’s is reminiscent of a botanical garden. The 19th century Holavalla Cemetery is dense with foliage and ancient gnarled trees towering over ornate headstones.

5. Walk towards the city’s towering landmark, the church named Hallgrimskirkja, and you’ll find the Einar Jonsson Museum with its postage stamp-size sculpture garden. As you explore the allegorical works, you’ll notice that he was very much influenced by mythological and religious themes.

6. Take a long pleasant walk or a short cab ride to get to the Reykjavik Botanic Garden located in the Laugardalur area. There you can wander twisty paths and inspect the plants that come from all over the world, including New Zealand and Asia. It’s interesting to see so many trees here in a country where tall evergreens are a rarity. Housed in a greenhouse laden with flora, Cafe Flora — a perfect lunch spot — is aptly named.

7. Certainly, one of Reykjavik’s most famous features is the Blue Lagoon with its series of geothermal pools and rejuvenating silica mud where you could luxuriate for most of the day. But, its location midway between downtown and the airport, hardly makes it convenient. You can choose from an array of mud and other spa treatments at their downtown location that’s not far from the Botanic Garden. If you choose a treatment, you also have access to the mega health club (Hreyfing) that’s in the same building. Or simply opt for a day pass to the health club.

8. And, if you can’t get enough of the water, Reykjavik even has a beach, but, like so much in the city, it’s hardly ordinary. Nautholsvik, a petite half-moon bay that’s easily accessible by bike, bus or cab, is geothermally heated and man made: the sand was trucked in. And if the water isn’t hot enough for you, there are hot tubs located just offshore and on the coast beside the sand so you can bake. Pick a sunny day to visit and you’ll find dozens of Icelanders soaking, lying on the sand, or playing volleyball.

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10 Cool, New Shops in Reykjavik

I promised you more on Reykjavik and here it is. 2008 has seen a lot of new, renovated or relocated restaurants, shops and other venues. And, I'm crossing my fingers that, despite the economic crash, they all survive and thrive. Here's what I found on my recent trip: 1. O The former Siggi Hall restaurant has a new life as O, an upscale restaurant in Hotel Odinsve with chef Eythor Runarsson -- he's on the Icelandic Culinary team -- at the helm. They're serving a menu that's focused on new Nordic cuisine. Among the delicacies on the menu: arctic char with pistachios, and salted cod with sugared cabbage. 2. Lykkjufall — They're not new but they just relocated to a new space. Specializing in unique clothing designed for women who are breast-feeding, the store attracts plenty of women (including myself) who are not breast-feeding yet who clamor for these stylish items. 3. Hemmi and Valdi — Where else can you work on your laptop at 10 p.m. beside people casually drinking a glass of wine, sipping a cappuccino or strumming a guitar while the kids are using crayons to sketch? This is a cosy bar -- though I use the term loosely -- with card games and crayons scattered about and decorated with second-hand furniture that's all for sale. Once I settled in, I didn't want to leave. 4. Emm — Combining a designer clothing store and a cosmetics shop, Emm is oriented to satisfying the needs of the strong, independent women. The fashionable, wearable, trendy items (e-label) all revolve around a sophisticated black color palette, perfect for New Yorkers like myself. Women owned and designed, the store also is home to MM, a cosmetics shop where you can reserve a girl's afternoon of make-up, hair and cocktails. 5. Kryddlegin Hjorta — In my opinion, this new restaurant -- the name is the Icelandic equivalent of the movie title: Like Water for Chocolate -- has one of the best views of the waterfront with the majestic peaks in the distance. Don't expect a menu here. The owner cooks whatever suits her mood at the moment. But it's all great. Everything is organic -- at least it is right now but who knows; that could change with the economic downturn. Lunch is soup, bread and salad but it's something not to miss. I had one of the four soups, the Thai chicken soup with peanuts and chili and, if I had room, I would've had seconds. She also bakes all the thick, healthy breads, like spelt with barley. They only serve dinner on weekends when you also might be treated to drumming night -- her husband is a drummer who has traveled the world. 6. Blue Lagoon Spa — This is not the famous Blue Lagoon not far from the airport. It's a very convenient, new downtown spa with Blue Lagoon treatments. You can soak in a jacuzzi that sits under a small waterfall, sign up for a algae, silica and lava mud scrub or an algae wrap. They also have a very reasonable day-pass so you have full use of the health club. This is a place where you could spend an entire day, or at least the afternoon. 7. Boston Bar — Though the bar isn't new the menu they're serving is. Plus, they now have Bjork's chef, Numi Thomasson, cooking up some simple but tasty options. Only five dishes are served, including citrus garlic herb chicken leg with brown curry rice, and spotted catfish with warm pear and blue cheese sauce. Even if you're not hungry, Boston is one of Reykjavik's loveliest bars, without all the crazy frenzy you see in so many nightspots. (Plus it's also open for lunch.) 8. Aftur — Not new but just expanded its quarters and also it's now open every day of the week. All the clothes are made from recycled clothes and no two are alike. They're all fun and function. I especially coveted the hooded wool capes. Perfect for snowy days in New York when I also need to look fashionable. 9. Kaffi Hljomalind — This non-profit coop just moved to a new location on the main shopping street. It's an amazing social spot considering it's a vegetarian cafe that also houses an art gallery, political library and much more. When I was there, they had a calendar on the wall listing yoga classes, tango lesson, live music performances and independent films. It's another quaint spot to hang out for several hours. The grilled cheese with sundried tomatoes is particularly yummy. 10. Fotografi — This photo gallery and retail shop opened a year ago but the walls are now hung with more of the work of the three owner/photographers. They've got some very avant garde images as well as gorgeous Iceland/Reykjavik-related scenes. If you love anything to do with photography, you must visit this friendly and creative venue. I stopped by twice during one weekend because I felt I missed some treasure. They also host some nice temporary exhibitions in the rear gallery.

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Cool Goings on in Reykjavik

The Icelandic economy may be in the dumps, but on my recent visit I found a slew of new or renovated restaurants, shops and other venues that are worth checking out -- especially considering you'll never find your dollar can buy this much against the sinking kroner. And don't think that a visit to Reykjavik at this time will be a depressing experience given the seriousness of Iceland's financial crisis. Yes, there have been regular protests in front of the Parliament with plenty of egg throwing. But, though they're frustrated, the Iceland people, young and old, seem to be an optimistic lot. As I roamed the capital city, I found many citizens to believe that this crisis is actually a good thing; a sign that they have strayed far from from tradition, and that they needed to go back to the old ways, such as fishing and so forth. Sure, I found boarded up shops along the main shopping streets, but some took advantage of the empty window space to display artists' works. It was easy to get reservations at many of the upscale restaurants and there were abundant sales wherever I looked. Here's one of the restaurants I recommend:

Orange is a restaurant that defines "fun through gastronomy." How else can you explain the coconut crusted prawns arriving aboard helium-filled balloons? Other delicacies hide behind clouds of dry ice. Don't miss the high-octane slushy cocktails in the bar. It's easy to guzzle too much because they look too fruit-punchy to be powerful. I had the "Let's Go Crazy" tasting menu which, like many of the offerings, has a lot of locally-sourced ingredients, including reindeer and grey duck. But expect the unexpected: a soup might be served from a milk carton while a sauce is poured from a ceramic cow. It's all about fine dining mixed with theatrics. After all, the chef, Thorarinn Eggertsson, is on the Icelandic culinary team that did quite well in this year's Culinary Olympics.


Later in the week I'll reveal more of my findings regarding new/renovated/ shops, restaurants, cafes and bars.

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