Friday, November 22, 2013

Beguiling Bequia

Among the 32 islands and cays making up St. Vincent and the Grenadines, an archipelago that unfurls in the Southern Caribbean, Bequia is deceptive. On the surface, it may seem like an isle that's in permanent slow-mo mode. Yet, a vacation doesn't have to be all about lying on golden sands day after day sipping pretty cocktails.

I spent my time walking through the main town of Port Elizabeth along a ribbon of a pedestrian path beside azule waters; hiking on forested paths to sheltered coves; exploring hilltops, taking in the postcard-perfect views of offshore islands; inspecting model boat-building shops, such as family-owned Sargeant Brothers' Model Boat Shop; kayaking in calm bays; and dining at restaurants that radiated authenticity, such as the Sugar Reef Cafe that's set beside the waterfront. There were enough activities on Bequia to keep even a Type A person like me occupied.











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Friday, November 8, 2013

A Brooklyn Walking Tour For Those With Big Appetites

As our small group stood outside the New Utrecht Reformed Church under a pole where the district once flew the first American flag, essentially thumbing its nose at the British, Dom Gervasi, owner of Made in Brooklyn Tours, declared, “Bensonhurst is the Texas of Brooklyn.” The moniker seemed fitting for this neighborhood long dominated by big attitude. Once known for its mob connections and gang-related activities, the neighborhood formerly known as New Utrecht, one of the six original towns making up today's Brooklyn, didn't go the way of its not-so-distant but uber hip Brooklyn neighbor, Williamsburg. Instead, this now easy-going, primarily blue-collar district maintains its Italian-American roots while seamlessly melding with a United Nations array of immigrants from China, Central America, Mexico and Eastern Europe. Strolling through residential and commercial neighborhoods dominated by low-slung buildings, Dom showed off some of Bensonhurst's authentic food shops that are traditionally Italian-American.




Panino Rustico, owned by a life-long resident, is considered one of the top panini eateries around. Though you might think that paninis are a U.S. construction, their trendiness goes back to Milan, Italy circa 1980 where well-to-do teens favoring American-made jeans, sunglasses and shoes, would hang out at Al Panino, a sandwich shop, hence the term paninaro to denote this culture. Panino Rustico, a two-year-old Bensonhurst-based eatery, serves up 34 different paninis, made with ciabatta bread from Il Fornaretto, a bakery that's just about seven blocks away. Among those I sampled, it was a tie between the prosciutto with fresh mozzarella, roasted red pepper, arugula and basil pesto; and the porchetta, smoked mozzarella and sauteed broccoli rabe. So I polished off both, which was probably not the smartest idea, given that our next stop was a premier hero joint.


Lioni Italian Heroes crafts more than 150 different varieties, each named mostly for famous Italian-Americans based on ingredients that they preferred or, in the case of historical figures, what we presume would fit their personality, according to Bensonhurst native and owner Paul Despirito. Number 69, the Christopher Columbus, is packed with roast beef, sopressato, fresh mozzarella, Italian sausage and stuffed mushrooms. Number 60, the Marisa Tomei, heralds her love of eggplant; the Frank Sinatra includes his two loves: salami and fresh mozzarella, the ingredient originally attached to the Lioni name. Each sandwich is immense, stretching some 13 inches and weighing in at nearly two pounds. (I only had room for a small bite but took the rest of this enormous sandwich home for the next day's lunch and dinner.) In keeping with a days-of-yore vibe, we washed down our heroes with a Manhattan Special, a carbonated coffee beverage that dates to the 1890s. (Made in Brooklyn, of course.) “There are deep roots here,” says Paul who took over this 20-year-old business several years ago, keeping it much the same, including the smoking of their own mozzarella with hickory wood, and simply adding to an already successful menu. “This is Brooklyn,” reflects Paul who says that Lioni's gives you a taste of what it's like to live here. “We make sandwiches the way we would make 'em in our houses on a Sunday night,” adds Paul.


Homemade raviolis keep customers flocking from all over to Pastosa Ravioli, an almost 50-year-old Italian specialty company with this, their largest store, smack in the middle of Bensonhurst. This family-owned business started by the Ajellos has a loyal patronage. No wonder, considering they make more than 30 types of raviolis, including truffle, butternut squash, lobster, pumpkin and crab, and stock their shelves and refrigerated cases with fresh gnocchi and tortellini as well as high-quality goods mostly imported from Italy.



Villabate Alba Pasticceria, formed via a merger of two respected Sicilian companies, maintains its ties with the home country. In fact, with a massive ceiling mural depicting angels, and myriad statues of Jesus and Mary reigning over the interior, it does feel like you're not so far from the shores of a Sicilian village. Whether you're sipping a strong espresso, enjoying a chocolate gelato or digging into the creamiest of cannolis – or consuming all three – you'll know that this shop is about the authentic Italian experience. (Their pastry selection is impressive, to be sure, and if you're thinking of visiting right before a holiday, be prepared for massive lines.) I'm a cannoli aficionado and found the creamy texture and light flavor of the filling, and the flakiness of the shell to reflect the best cannoli I've ever sampled anywhere in the U.S., and on par with those I discovered when bicycling around Italy.



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Tuesday, October 29, 2013

Clouds + Sky Tell a Story in the Amazon

Traveling along the Amazon River in Peru is a transformative experience. The haiku below reveals what I felt while cruising for a week on La Estrella Amazonica and in one of their two 18-person skiffs used to navigate the narrow tributaries.


Strong coffee in hand
Early morning sky wakes up
Clouds compete above. 

Puffy marshmallows
Hover above green tangles
Monkeys grasp the air.

Sun streaks dark blankets
Coating an azure canvas
The sky cries again.

Scarlet fires blaze
A final sign of daylight
Night creatures beckon.

One last chardonnay
A perch above the wildness
Thin wisps covered in night shrouds. 












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Sunday, October 27, 2013

Curious Plants + Animals While Cruising Along the Amazon

Since I'm a biologist by training and a supreme tree hugger, my idea of an ideal cruise may be a little different from most. Sure, I look for creative cuisine; comfy cabins; fine wines; a friendly and experienced staff; and small ports where I'll meet villagers in their homes or schools.  But an eco component is key, where I'll have close encounters with an abundance of creatures, plant and animal alike, in their natural habitats. My recent journey up the Amazon River (along the Ucayali and Maranon rivers in Peru) with International Expeditions fulfilled that desire with an abundance of encounters.

But this wasn't simply about gaping at the flora and fauna. Luckily, aboard their brand new, gem of a riverboat, La Estrella Amazonica, I was able to interact daily with native-Peruvian Johnny, who is the embodiment of a Renaissance guide. He's a unique combination of naturalist, teacher, comedian, entertainer, musician, and cultural interpreter for all things in the Amazon. With all that in mind, we learned not just how to identify each plant, bird, fish, reptile, amphibian and mammal, but also its adaptations, properties and the impact on the villagers. Given that Johnny's generosity with his time and knowledge and empathy to the needs of others is so palpable, and his knowledge and love of the Amazon so strong, we all came away falling in love with the inhabitants of the Amazon River Basin and understanding why it's vital to protect it at all costs.

This is just a small sampling of my close encounters:

The Amazon is not chock full of these carnivorous fish. Rather, we pulled up in our skiff along a section that's shaded and coated with a lot of floating debris and vegetation. This is where we pulled in and baited each line with a chunk of raw beef. Churn up the water a bit with the tip of the rod, drop the line three inches down and wait. Except you don't have to wait that long. Within a few seconds, I felt a tug, set the hook and pulled it by yanking the rod up. The biggest we caught that morning was 10 inches.

The crew expertly held the fish behind the gills and carefully pulled off the hook. That night we feasted on grilled piranha. The sweet, white meat is found just under the dorsal fin. Yum.

The armored or walking catfish has elongated pectoral fins allowing them to walk up and along the muddy shore. There, the male catfish digs holes with its sucker-like mouth so that the female can deposit her eggs. It's given the name armored because its body is covered by a bony layer. This is another good tasting fish.

We didn't catch this fish but, rather, pulled up to a fisherman in a dug-out canoe. He was gracious enough to allow us to touch and photograph his catch. (He had a boat full of fish that he was bringing home to his family in a nearby village.)



Related to a tarantula, this is a bird-eating spider which first kills a lizard and takes over its burrow. Then the spider sits in wait at the entrance until a small bird prances by. They use venom to paralyze the victim.


This small anaconda didn't stray far from a creek, the environment it much prefers.  A mere five inches long, this juvenile -- it's just two years old -- could reach 36 inches in length. Anacondas tackle their prey not with venom but by constricting them under water. They're so aggressive that they can consume a caimon, a large reptile in the same family as the alligator, or a capybara, a large rodent that can weigh up to 145 pounds.

These giant water lilies can only be found in still, shallow water. Here, we walked along a plank beside a small pond. Notice how the edge of each plant curves up to prevent water from entering the surface, where organisms would end up decomposing it. Interestingly, the under surface of each leaf is covered by long spines to prevent fish from eating it. Those lovely pink blossoms produce a noxious odor that attracts beetles that are part of the pollination process.

How sturdy are these giant leaves?  They can hold the weight of a three-month-old baby. Who knew?


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Monday, October 7, 2013

Gear Review: Pick-Pocket Proof Pants For Women

I must admit that I was plenty skeptical about the new women's Pick-Pocket Proof Pants (manufactured by Clothing Arts) that I anticipated reviewing. It's not that I was worried the pants wouldn't thwart thieves. I'm sure they would. After all, my friend tried the men's version last year and he had difficulty getting into the pockets himself. (There's definitely a learning curve.) But he loved the pants and wears them constantly. You can read my review here.

But I'm all about form and function. So, great that thieves won't be able to nab my passport, money, credit cards and cell phone. But aesthetics can't be sacrificed. And the idea of a pants with a multitude of pockets, including the cargo kind, just didn't seem to fit in with a pleasing aesthetic. Would my butt look droopy, my thighs bulgy and my hips like I'm carrying an extra 10 pounds? I'm pretty petite (5'2" and 104 pounds) so anything that detracted from my slim appearance would be a no go, even if it was pick-pocket proof.

Was I pleasantly surprised! These pants look great and perform well. The pockets -- there are six of them: two rear, two side and two cargo -- are all low profile.. The cargo pockets don't hang in a floppy way. Two of these pockets contain double security features: a zipper and a button flap. I defy a thief to get past that. The two side pockets are zippered and contain an inner pocket, perfect for my cell phone. Like with the men's pants, it does take awhile to get accustomed to all the buttons and zippers. But that's the trade off if you want to keep other hands out of your pockets.

The pants are lightweight and soft as cotton, but constructed of a nylon that's wicks away moisture, doesn't wrinkle, and dries quickly. Oftentimes, I have found that pants never fit me perfectly around the waist, often requiring a belt. No belt is needed with these, thanks to additional buttons to cinch in the waist, making for a perfect fit.

I was surprised to find that the pants convert to capris, my favorite pants style. So that's how I intend on wearing them on most of my trips to warm climes.

The fit is relaxed, without a hint of bagginess, and the comfort factor is high, including when I'm curled up for an hour on my commuter bus. The pants arrived four days ago and I've been wearing them every day since. In a few days, I'm heading out of the country on assignment to a tropical country and my Pick-Pocket Proof Pants are coming along with me, whether I expect pickpockets or not. And now you can get a 20% discount on these or the men's pants if you purchase my travel first-aid kit organizer.
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Wednesday, September 25, 2013

A Very Hidden Gem In Maine

It's so easy to bypass a simple roadside stand when you're driving country roads. Even at those low speeds, you miss the subtle markers in scenery that brims with items demanding your attention. If I were walking or taking in Maine's pristine scenery from the seat of my bicycle, I would not have almost missed it the first time. But the word "PIES" displayed in bright pink chalk on a small blackboard beside a single lane road somehow stuck with me.






My friend and I were in southern Maine for several days, not far from the New Hampshire border, when, one morning we had a craving for homemade pies. Where else to find 'em than Maine? Except we couldn't find any. Then I remembered the pink "PIES" sign on some road we passed the other day. My friend was skeptical. Did it really say "pies?" And, then I wondered if the pie would even be worth trying. With thoughts of blueberry, apple, apricot and rhubarb pies twirling in our heads, we set off to look for this sign. And, curiously, after leaving our accommodation in Biddeford Pool, I spotted the sign as we zoomed by. I cried out "Pies." But we were already long past it. Was it worth making that U-turn? Yes!

Beside the sign was a small driveway and a parking lot adjacent to a self-serve farm stand that was carefully decorated and stocked with homemade everything. Freshly baked pies were each stacked atop doilies and placed in a glass case. That day it was apple and blueberry. Shelves held jellies and jams, including several with habanero peppers. Lobster meat was stored in a cooler as was pesto sauce in little tupperware-type containers. There were chocolate chip cookies, just-cut flowers and so much more.

Everything was done with great care. (Even a laughing Buddha was positioned near the entry.) Colorful post-its lined one wall, each to be used under different circumstances, including when the pies would be out of the oven. I found out that this is the owner's first year managing her farm stand. Given the quality of your goods -- we ate the entire pie in almost one sitting -- and her thoughtfulness, I'm confident her venture will be a success.




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