Not So Laid-Back Hiking in Grenada

Whenever I travel to the Caribbean, it's not the sun-drenched beaches that I long for. Sure, I love to sit on the beach in the early morning or at sunset. But, I much prefer to spend the day exploring, and that often means heading out on one or more hiking trails.

The island of Grenada has several paths that are perfect for strolling. (Such as the trail along the shores of Grand Etang Lake, an extinct volcanic crater that's perpetually bathed in fog.)
Or the lovely Morne La Baye interpretive trail where you'll get an education on the island's distinctive flora, including the ever-present boldly-colored heliconia as well as a fern endemic to this area. And then you'll be treated to a fab viewpoint at the end.

Two other favorite areas for more leisurely walks is the La Sagesse Nature Center and Levera National Park, two good places for bird watching.
But trails for thrill seekers who want a rush of adrenalin around every corner are more the rule. Here's what I found on what's often referred to as the Spice Island, because of its nutmeg production. The island is covered with a network of paths snaking through the jungle-covered terrain, some hugging the cliffs and others scaling the 2,000-some-foot peaks. Since so many of the more advanced trails, including the treks to the Seven Sisters and Camp Fedon, are not well marked, I travel with a guide, such as Henry's Safari Tours.

• It's an easy hike to the first of three falls referred to as Concord Falls in the western part of the island. This is a perfect place to cool off in the pool and either hang out or prepare yourself for the hike to the other two.

But, after that, it can be thought of as a warm up jaunt that requires criss-crossing the wide Black Bay River and jumping onto slick, loosely placed rock piles. The trail snakes through thick brush with yellow and red heliconia flowers growing in abundance.

The rock-hopping has its payoff: Au Coin Falls with its water cascading 40 feet into a clear blue pool. The third set of falls, Fontainbleu, cascades some 60+ feet.

• Another trek that's more rigorous wends to the waterfalls known as the Seven Sisters deep in Grenada's rainforest. You'll find the sweet aroma from the fields lush with bananas, cinnamon and nutmeg intoxicating. The flat track quickly gives way to a steep muddy trail along a narrow mountain ridge. Luckily the perfectly placed has roots help hikers climb this slope where you'll find several rushing waterfalls and clear cobalt blue pools -- perfect for swimming. Or, as I did, sitting on a flat rock and listening to monkeys scamper about.
• Grenada's got some heavy-duty all-day treks, including one to Camp Fedon, an outpost where Julian Fedon, a French Grenadian, led a rebellion in the late 1700s against the British. I did this hike from Concord Falls where the trail climbed steeply along the muddy slopes. Again, I made use of the well-placed vines, roots, rocks and shubs to keep my balance. But it's not all about staying upright because there's plenty of flora to appreciate, from the mahogany trees to the giant ferns and teak. All the sweating to get to the top is worth it for the panoramic views of the green rainforest and the cobalt waters in the distance.

continue reading "Not So Laid-Back Hiking in Grenada"

Surprising Cultural Finds in Macau

Cool contemporary art, ethereal wines, sublime cuisine or curious museum artifacts is not what I expected to find in Macau. And, yet, once I got beyond the much-touted casino scene and wander the many cobbled lanes, I found plenty to tickle the senses. I recently guest blogged on this very topic that puts Macau in an entirely different light. For me, instead of seeing Macau as a quick one day stop-over -- as so many visitors do -- I see it as a many-day destination to enjoy the galleries, museums, restaurants, cafes and the parks and gardens (which I've mentioned before).

continue reading "Surprising Cultural Finds in Macau"

Staying Healthy On The Road

Some of you may know that aside from writing and consulting on travel and food and an array of other topics, I'm also trained as a nutritionist, exercise physiologist and medical writer. That background has been invaluable in terms of keeping me fit and healthy when I'm traveling. This can mean researching nearby jogging paths, carrying healthy snack items on the plane, selecting a reliable sunscreen and knowing the best ways to prevent the array of traveler's illnesses that could plague any trip.
I just returned from many weeks of traveling where I met people who were either waylaid because they contracted traveler's diarrhea, suffered from motion sickness on a yacht or wished they hadn't gained weight on their business trips. So I thought it was time to turn you on to a guest blog I had written that addresses these and many other questions regarding staying healthy when traveling.

continue reading "Staying Healthy On The Road"

Greece Beyond Its Isles

When I travel, I never seem to do things the traditional way. Take a trip to Greece. It typically conjures up images of baking on a sun drenched beach or sitting aboard a sailboat as you hop from isle to tranquil isle. Instead I chose to bicycle for several weeks in mountainous Central Greece and the Peloponnese peninsula. My goal: to see the authentic side of the country that many visitors overlook.

The terrain that dipped and rose dramatically a multitude number of times each day revealed a land of contrasts. Riding from Glifada to Sounio, I was overpowered by the pungent scent of eucalyptus trees one moment. The next, a warm salt breeze brushed against my face. Narrow mountain roads zigzagging through the olive tree-coated valleys then wandered through scented dense pine forests. Riding through a lush valley towards the coastal town of Nafplio, I took a high road that was very reminiscent to many a road I biked in the Colorado Rockies, complete with jagged, snow dappled peaks.

The generosity of the locals set the tone for the trip right from the beginning. As I took a breather on the side of the road, a man selling fresh figs, sensing my parched state, gave me a handful. The plump, moist fruits were better than any snack I would've carried.

Grapevine-lined roads to Epidauros sliced through fertile plains that were crowded with pomegranate, orange, fig and walnut trees. Riding through this cornucopia, I often encountered farmers who'd offer me a bunch of grapes they were loading into a small open bed truck.

Even when the usually bright weather turned grim with a blustery downpour on my ride to Livadia, my spirits soared when I pulled into a garage for shelter and a young man, seeing my muddy gear, ran out to hose down my bike. Then, a shopkeeper brought me a chair to sit on as I dried off outside his shop once the rain stopped. A woman next door even offered to dry my soggy clothes.

Later in the trip, on the long road to Olympia, as I paused to ponder the map, a woman walked into her garden and handed me several English cucumbers that quickly quenched my thirst.

Every day provided a wealth of surprises, as long as you were ever mindful of your surroundings. Outside the town of Arahova, luckily I was very attentive and spied a clutch of brightly painted houses perched high on stone outcrops. Zipping down a steep section after Kalavrita, I kept my eyes on the sheep in the middle of the road and almost missed an ancient monastery hugging the side of a windswept mountain.

Near many mountain villages, I shared the road with a menagerie. Sheep, mules and even chickens forced me to slow down as they crowded the road ahead. On other narrow winding roads, it wasn't unusual to see a black clad old woman ambling down the road aside a mule.

A three-mile side trip from Sparta led to one of the most striking sites: Mystra, a deserted Byzantine city set amongst the mountains. Numerous footpaths weave through this stone city whose fortress dominates the 2,000-foot summit. Meandering through this monumental town, I explored the octagonal domed church of St. Theodori, numerous other churches and fresco-laden chapels and lingered at the summit for the views of the snow-capped peaks and pine forests.

Every morning, in even the smallest villages, I followed the aroma of fresh baked bread, almonds and cinnamon to a zaharoplastio or pastry shop. And it certainly was not all about baklava, though honey, nuts and phyllo dough were major players. Among the dozens of sweet treats, I found small chocolate or vanilla iced cakes stuffed with rich custard, shredded pastries with nuts, and honey puffs and honey biscuits.

In the seaside communities like Nafpaktos, fresh squid was a real treat. I passed fishermen who were slamming them on the coastal rocks as a tenderizing technique. In the nearby tavernas, these freshly-caught squid were served fried and drizzled with lemon juice. No need for fancy dipping sauces.

It was easy to spend two hours at lunch where I never tired of Greek salads with red ripe tomatoes and cucumbers picked in the gardens behind the tavernas, and chunks of firm tangy feta cheese; as well as warm crusty bread and thick creamy sheep's milk yogurt topped with rich honey.

My next trip to Greece will surely be to check out the dozens of islands that pepper the Aegean Sea. But there's something to be said for getting away from it all by cycling through Greece's many mountain villages.

continue reading "Greece Beyond Its Isles"

Meandering from Gaming to Gardens in Macau

Like many people, when I heard Macau I thought gambling. After all, flashy behemoth casino resorts like the Venetian, Grand Lisboa, Wynn and others attract those who make the ultra-short hydrofoil trip from Hong Kong not for Macau's lush parks and gardens but for the joy (or heartbreak) that awaits at the craps and baccarat tables. Then again, those non-gambler members of the family may find themselves ensconced with the masses who are mesmerized by glitzy sound and light shows where trees rise from the ground and transform through all four seasons in under what seemed like four minutes, dragons roil across a domed midnight sky of fire and ice, and the resident Cirque du Soleil troupe perform their aerial acrobatics in an otherworldly realm.
But, given the nature lover that I am, I sought out Macau's more serene side -- and found plenty of it. In fact, flora-draped parks and gardens are an easy walk or taxi from your hotel, wherever that may be because this peninsula -- and its two tiny offshore islands -- all on China's south coast, is petite. So small, in fact, that a local told me a rush hour traffic jam is when it takes 15 minutes to get home.

During my five days in Macau, these are some of my many eco-adventures:

1. Camoes Garden -- Dedicated to Portuguese poet, Luis de Camoes, this garden is coated with dense foliage, including some towering Ficus trees with impressive buttress roots. Despite the sweltering heat, I found plenty of shade under the tree canopies. It's worth wandering around the meandering paths here to find locals performing tai chi exercises with brightly colored fans as well as those walking barefoot along an ultra-rough pebbled trail as a form of reflexology. (Some people find it better than a traditional foot massage.) Other residents meditate atop giant boulders while small groups of men enjoy card games in a gazebo.
2. Guia Hill -- Despite temperatures soaring into the high 90s and humidity feeling like it was over 90%, I didn't want to miss walking along the shaded 1.2-mile jogging path that encircles Guia Hill, Macau's highest point and home to China's oldest coastal lighthouse. I tackled the path after 5 pm on a weekday and found plenty of joggers and walkers -- some sans shoes -- sharing the path which still felt serene. Along the way are spots with panoramic city views as well as side trails leading either up towards the lighthouse or down to an adjacent park, Flora Garden.


3. Flora Garden -- I rushed past the zoo, cable car and aviary to check out the less tourist-laden sections of the park. Instead, I climbed steeply up the many-tiered park to find secluded alcoves, belvederes and a narrow stone path surrounded by dense foliage that leads eventually to the main jogging path around Guia Hill.

4. Lou Lim Ieoc Garden -- Anyone who loves landscape design will enjoy wandering this classic Chinese garden complete with a moon gate, placid water features, winding paths and dozens of rugged and oddly-shaped stones pockmarked with holes -- some allowing you to climb stairs above it all or penetrate into shallow grottoes. One section of a pond had voluminous lotus leaves coating its surface. This property is also the site of arts and crafts exhibitions -- when I visited on display was a calligraphy exhibit.
5. Dr. Carlos D'Assumpcao Park -- Just steps from my hotel along the harbor, the MGM Grand, I found a small rectangle of peace. Early Sunday morning, I strolled along the paths that bordered and crossed over a pool where lily pads floated, and then continued along a straight avenue lined with shade trees. Nearby, local men and women practiced their slo-mo tai chi choreography.

6. Carmel Gardens -- Located on Taipa Island, these gardens are named for the pastel yellow painted church, Our Lady of Carmel, a neo-classical building sitting at one of the upper gardens. Here I found dozens of blooming flowers, palms and conifers as well as a flora-covered pergola. Then I walked a narrow path down to a lower garden where a couple of men were planting and weeding. These gardens are especially delightful for the offshore bird sanctuary as well as the five restored mansions that have been mostly turned into museum pieces that provide a window into Macau's past.

7. Seac Pai Van Park -- On Coloane Island I spent time walking the main Coloane Trail that looped around the upper reaches of the park. Though I was told that it'd be difficult to find my way given that the trail signs are in Portuguese and Chinese, that I'd find myself alone on the trail because it was noon on a weekday, and that the heat would be unbearable at this time of the day, I had no trouble. Not only that, but walking this path was one of the highlights of my trip. Yes, I met few people along the path that's about 5 miles long. But the handful of folks I ran across were all hiking the same level path and all were helpful when I showed them my map. In addition, all trail intersections are carefully marked -- it's hard to get lost. Plus, if you were the least bit confused, you could walk up (not down) and you'd find yourself at the A-Ma statue set atop the island's highest point. (From there you can walk the paved path down or see if the free shuttle bus is running back to the main road.)

Don't miss the informal arboretum at the start of the trail where all the trees -- whether laurels, soapberry or tropical ornamental -- are labelled with Latin names for those with botanical interests. The trail is dotted with perfectly placed pagodas and benches to rest, gaze at the views of the beaches or waters far below or just relish the serenity. Something I found at all these parks and gardens.

continue reading "Meandering from Gaming to Gardens in Macau"

Istanbul -- Some of My Fave Spots

The Blue Mosque and the Topkapi Palace seem to get all the tourist attention, certainly for good reason. But on my latest trip to Istanbul, I searched out less popular venues or at least venues that are not tourist meccas.

• Sure, the Grand Bazaar attracts the masses that are searching for the best deals on carpets, souvenirs and knock-off brand-name goods. Instead I browsed the quieter Bookseller's Bazaar and the Old Bedesten section of the Grand Bazaar where I found a 10th century Koran, antique firearms and 18th century urns. And the Spice Market had a very authentic feel. Here, the city's top chefs browse tall pyramids of spices. I even found shops dispensing herbs the way pharmacies fill drug prescriptions. Here you could get potions to treat all manner of ailments, from high cholesterol to asthma.

• While the Blue Mosque is jammed with visitors, Suleymaniye, a 16th century mosque, is as peaceful as can be, at least when I visited one morning. Here, you'll find ornate tile work in the interior and exterior. I spent quite some time sitting in the placid central prayer room that's lighted by a couple of hundred windows.

• The Istanbul Modern Museum sits along the Bosphorus making it a perfect location for fabulous views from their restaurant. They're noted for their pizzas and pastas, including the spicy tagliatelle with shrimp and clams (that's what I ate for lunch). I love modern art and found that I could've spent a couple of hours browsing the extensive collection of contemporary Turkish paintings, sculpture, photography and video installation. I particularly liked the works of Nazmi Ziya, an impressionist painter, and the sufist images of Ergin Inan.

• Two additional museums that I wished I had more time to explore include the Santral Museum, considered one of Istanbul's best art galleries, and the Sakip Sabanci Museum, housed in a mansion that's set on lovely sloping landscaped grounds. The latter is renowned for its calligraphy collection.

• Don't just spend your time on the European side of Istanbul. The Asian side is a must-visit, including Kadikoy where the ferry docks. There I lunched at Ciya, a restaurant serving southern Turkish cuisine. The stew with red cherries was unusually flavorful as was the dried eggplant stuffed with meat and rice. From here I walked to the quieter Moda neighborhood with its narrow lanes, atmospheric cafes and historic buildings.

• I was surprised by Istanbul's array of coffee shops, cafes and bars that provide a quiet respite from the hustle and bustle in this city crammed with more than 12 million people. Interestingly, some cafes are in courtyards so lush that I almost thought I was transported to the country. Others are high above the chaotic traffic. For example, the White Mill Cafe has a shady courtyard on the second floor where I found plenty of people working on their laptops. The upper level of Kahre-6 has a top floor garden with a tiny fountain. My favorite was Limonlu, a cafe with a tree-draped patio where birds twitter. Interestingly, this cafe is accessed via a nondescript building and a dark set of stairs that look like they're leading to a shadowy basement.

• My favorite views were found at 360, a restaurant and bar that's appropriately named for the panoramic views. They may have the best views in the city. And another restaurant-bar with fab views is Leb-i Derya with its floor-to-ceiling windows and skylights. Both venues are very fun night spots.

• Sofyali is a restaurant that's also a popular raki spot. Raki is a grappa-like beverage that's usually served on ice. But it's not all about drinking here. This is the place for mezes, the Turkish appetizers. Here I found wonderful haddock with red pepper, potato puree with green onion, and purslane mixed with garlic and yogurt.

• It's hardly all about meat in Istanbul. I found some amazing vegetarian restaurants, such as Zencefil and Sebze Lokantasi where I dined on quiche with artichokes and a cold yogurt soup, and the most amazing slice of pumpkin pie.

continue reading "Istanbul -- Some of My Fave Spots"

Secret Packing Tips - Why I Never Check Luggage

This summer I've been attending a lot of networking events, classes and seminars and I've found many people shocked that I could possibly travel for 4+ weeks, as I often do, without ever checking luggage. Interestingly, many express particular surprise because they claim all the women they know travel with a multitude of shoes and changes of clothes, so much so that it requires checking at least one, and sometimes two bags. I've got packing down to an art. One of the secrets: I only travel with two pairs of shoes -- and I get on the plane with one of those pairs. One of the other secrets: almost every item of clothing doubles as something else or is made of a special fabric that can easily be washed and dries in a jiffy. I've guest blogged about my packing tips several months ago. And I think, given the number of discussions I've had this summer on this topic, I should bring it to your attention. Check out the 10 reasons why I never check luggage, including carrying a smallish Mountainsmith Backpack that stores most everything I need for months of walking, biking, hiking, kayaking, urban traveling and even evenings out at restaurants, bars and clubs, as well as a Mountainsmith fannypack that doubles as my purse/day pack and carries all my necessities: wallet, passport, camera, tape recorder, notebooks, aspirin, extra pair of glasses, and so forth.

continue reading "Secret Packing Tips - Why I Never Check Luggage"

Quiet Coves on Turkey's Bozcaada Island

In the Aegean Sea a short distance off the western coast of Turkey, Bozcaada Island seems to inspire disparate opinions. You can imagine my surprise when I met a couple at breakfast on my first morning and they told me they planned to spend four days and were leaving early because there was nothing to do. Then a few hours later, I met another couple who thought the island was a perfect locale for a summer house. Certainly odd but it all depends on your expectations.
I fall into the "wished I had more time" category of visitor. The best way to get around is by bicycle. Here's what I found while cycling:

1. First, I rented a good mountain bike along the waterfront at Haluk and was surprised when the owner said he'd offer me a complementary glass of wine once I returned the bicycle. (It turned out to be a good glass of wine and, returning the back in the early evening was perfect to sit along the waterfront with the setting sun playing off the waters.)

2. Pedaling west, I found a narrow unsigned lane. This led to a super steep uphill to the top of Goztepe, a 630-foot-high hill with sweeping views of the island and the turquoise waters. I cycled up the first half and then walked the bike the rest of the way up. All along, I was treated to the panoramic views of the patchwork of green landscape, steep sided limestone cliffs and Greek island of Lemnos. (Those who thrive on hair-raising downhills will love the return trip.)

3. Back on the road which saw little traffic, I passed old stone farmhouses with scarecrows standing in the fields.

4. I made a brief detour along a narrow side road that sliced through vineyards. (Bozcaada is noted for its wines. There are six wineries on the island.) This atmospheric path wandered to Cayir, a desolate stretch of sandy beach on the north shore where I could've hung out for hours.

5. The highlight of biking on Bozcaada for me was pedaling through a thick pine forest that seemed to spring out of the blue and then opened up to a long row of wind turbines on the western edge of the island. These produce a whopping 30 million kilowatt hours of electricity per year. Unbelievable, but expected especially when you visit the island and feel first-hand that the strong winds never seem to stop blowing.


6. Everyone on the island flocks to Ayazmar Beach but I found two lovely slivers of sand, Sulubahce and Hubbele. Both of these beaches have no facilities but I brought a picnic lunch and enjoyed the low-key vibe with just a couple of other sun bathers in the vicinity at both of these. (Ayazmar, on the other hand, is lined with cafes across the road while the sands couldn't be more overcrowded with lounge chairs, beach blankets and beach umbrellas.)

7. Wherever I biked, I found an abundance of nature, whether limestone cliffs and hills covered in fragrant macchia shrubs, quiet coves or tall
grasslands.

8. My favorite accommodation was Hotel Kaikias where the white-on-white breakfast room offering a sumptuous buffet had the decor of a wedding reception. (There were wild flowers adorning the tables, floor-to-ceiling windows looking out to the sea and an antique chandelier.) Every morning, I'd sample the more than a dozen items -- including five kinds of candied fruits, sesame and lemon cakes, olives, apricots, cherries and plenty more -- and then I'd bring my plates to the outdoor patio and chat with the other guests.

9. Whenever I wanted to know about anything about Bozcaada or if I had a craving for a piece of homemade chocolate cake, I knew where to go: the Cafe at Lisa's. Lisa cooks everything on the menu except the mayonnaise (as she said to me). Whether it's local wines, tasty sandwiches, authentic stir fry, superb coffee frappe, delicious desserts as well as an interesting array of local artwork, this cafe has something for everyone. During the day, I sat under an umbrella outside while at night I settled into a chair in the homey interior with its open kitchen. Lisa, an Australian transplant, is a journalist who write the local newspaper so you can imagine that if you are desperate to know something about Bozcaada, she may be able to help out.

continue reading "Quiet Coves on Turkey's Bozcaada Island"

Istanbul: A Historic Walking Tour

When I'm visiting a city for the first time, I love prowling around narrow alleyways and roaming in and out of groceries and other shops sometimes with no agenda in mind. But, I'm also very keen on signing up for a small, specialized guided tour that will provide some interesting insights that I might otherwise either not be aware of or that would require toting along books on history, archeology and religion in order to truly feel like I have a handle on the local culture.

In the case of Istanbul, an expansive city bustling with more than 12 million people, an expert tour guide is even more important. Not someone who will take you along to see the usual tourist haunts, telling you what you'd find in any guidebook. No. I wanted someone who is specialized and will point out sights that are flying under the radar. And, I wanted a walking tour because that's the only way you will truly see the life of the city.

That's why I took a walking tour with Context Travel, a company with well-educated docents. My guide, Claire, was a historian specializing in medieval history who'd been living in Istanbul for quite some time. Our ultra-small group roamed Istanbul's Balat neighborhood -- and the adjacent Fener neighborhood -- which is very much working class and more on the conservative side, where we saw many women dressed traditionally in long skirts and wearing head scarfs.

Our first stop: the Kariye Museum, a church-cum-mosque-turned museum. Though Kariye sees many tour groups, most race around shooting photos of the 14th century mosaics and frescoes. Too bad, because almost every surface of the ceilings and walls are covered with the ornate works that tell the story of Mary and Jesus. Instead, we spent more than an hour with Claire explaining the personalities in many of the images, what miracles were depicted in the frescoes and the reason for some curious works -- like why Jesus is shown as having been born in a cave, something that's common in the Greek Orthodox religion.

Then we climbed atop the remains of the old fifth century city walls that afforded us with panoramic views of the city. Interestingly, Claire told us that at that time, Istanbul was referred to simply as "the city" -- kinda like Manhattan -- or the "red apple" because of its beauty. We inspect a cylindrical guard town and the remains of where Constantine lived atop the walls because it was the safest place in the city. (He died fighting.) Interestingly, it wasn't until the 15th century that a canon was invented that was able to penetrate these travertine stone and brick walls.

As we wandered along the streets, we passed a woman sitting on a rug outside her house with a mass of sheep's wool beside her. Claire explained the woman is restuffing her mattress with polyester fill and wool that she recently washed, a very common practice. Nearby, a man selling fresh fish, pulled a wagon piled high with tubs of ice and various fish species and a large scale.

We were in luck when we found the tiny Church of the Dagger open -- it's only open when the woman caretaker is available. She unlocked the doors and we found out how its curious name came to be. Claire told us that long ago someone stabbed an icon of Mary and blood poured out. This may be a small church but it's quite ornate with the silverwork image of Mary and baby Jesus -- a dagger protrudes from her robes. And plenty of other silver laden images.

As we strolled the streets, Claire pointed out a series of three-story wood frame houses that date to the 19th century. These are the last remaining ones of this type that were the norm in this part of the city.

Though so many of our wandering were along windy streets, now we found ourselves in a more regimented grid system. This is the old Jewish quarter where we stopped at Ahrida, the oldest synagogue in the city. Claire told us that inside sits the reading platform in the shape of a ship's prow. One interpretation is that it represents how the Jews once traveled here. However, we could only admire the synagogue from the outside -- it requires special permission to enter.

Our final stop is considered the holiest spot in the Greek Orthodox Church. That because the 19th century Church of St. George is the worldwide headquarters of the Orthodox Patriarchate. A lunette depicting St. George can be found inside as well as a gilded altar and a fifth century throne. On our way out, we passed a black-garbed abbot with a cylindrical black hat. Claire whispered to us that it's most likely an abbot and not the Patriarch because his hat would've been much taller.

Yes, you never know what you'll learn on a walking tour.

continue reading "Istanbul: A Historic Walking Tour"