Brittany, France in Pictures

When I told friends and colleagues that I was traveling to Brittany to walk the Nantes-Brest Canal, this declaration was met with stares. Not even the savviest among them heard of this 216-mile-long canal in Brittany's interior. Why wasn't I going to the coast? And when I told acquaintances in France, they wondered if I would get bored. After all, they said, the scenery is pretty much the same, mile after mile. Right? Wrong.

Over the course of six days, I walked  a 60+ mile portion of this waterway, stopping in villages for lunch and dinner where my friend and I overnighted. Every step in this bucolic landscape was full of discoveries, as the colors, sky, foliage, reflections in the water, continually changed. The bed and breakfasts varied from chateaus reminiscent of Downton Abbey to country houses in centuries-old slate hamlets.

This YouTube video will provide a window into my peaceful journey where I found previous treasures around every corner and where the placid waters acted as a canvas for the verdant scenes.

continue reading "Brittany, France in Pictures"

FIve Scenic Walks in Scotland

With such a diverse landscape of moors, woodlands, lochs, glens, sandy beaches and rugged peaks, Scotland presents walkers with a medley of options, from multi-day, rigorous treks to more leisurely strolls of just a few hours duration. But no matter the level of exertion, you'll be enveloped in this country's sublime beauty if you choose any of the five walks below:

1. The four-day Great Glen Way will bring you to Leitirfearn Nature Reserve with its myriad wildflowers and the ruins of Invergarry Castle. Of course, Loch Ness is the most iconic sight. But those who are obsessed with canals, like myself, will be able to inspect various features along the route that parallels the Caledonian Canal with the eight locks of Neptune's Staircase.

2. West Highland Way is, without a doubt, the country's most popular walking route. There's plenty of woodland stretches along this almost 100-mile route, which typically takes a week to traverse. You'll wander along Lock Lomond,  explore Rannoch Moor, a wild bogland, and climb the aptly named Devil's Staircase to some 1,800 feet.

3. On Orkney Island, a six-mile walk along the West Westray Coast
from Kirbest to Noup Headon will bring you to the 19th century Noup Head Lighthouse that stands over dramatic cliffs noted for their seabirds. In fact, this walk will delight birders. Arctic terns, puffins, guillemots are a few of the species you are likely to spot along the way, including in the Cliffs Nature Reserve.
Climbing to the top of Fitty Hills will provide panoramic views of the entire island

4.  Beinn Eighe Mountain Trail is an almost three-mile loop that brings you to the Beinn Eighe National Nature Reserve with its clutch of ancient pines.The mountain, as opposed to the woodland, trail affords 360° views, but it also requires negotiating steep rocky slopes with cairns marking the way.
The payoff: views of Loch Maree, the Beinn Eighe Massif and the Torridon Mountains.

5. Walking the scenic route from the hamlet of Blairmore to the Cape Wrath Lighthouse, you'll encounter few other people along a stretch of pristine coast
and the cream-colored beach of Sandwood Bay. Along the 14-mile trek, you'll climb across steep slopes, meander along cliff tops and cross several waterways. One of the most curious features of this journey is the stacks of boulders that resemble human faces

continue reading "FIve Scenic Walks in Scotland"

Unique Treks in Malta

When I am traveling to a destination for the first time, in order to really get a feel for the land and its people, I like to hit the road. That means taking it slowly, often by walking the urban streets and taking to the nearby trails in the surrounding landscapes.



That's what I did on my trip to Malta where I explored the capital city of Valletta, a UNESCO World Heritage site as well as the greener and more laid-back island of Gozo, the second of the three inhabited isles in this archipelago. And, thanks to the insights of Culture3Sixty, a bespoke travel company, I was able to avoid all the usual well-trodden sights, in favor of the hidden treasures I crave.

I recently wrote about my unique walking adventures in Malta for National Geographic Traveler's Intelligent Travel blog. Among my three treks, I checked out a tour that put me in touch with the ghostly inhabitants of Valletta, walked through a verdant landscape to see some unique works of art thanks to Art Walks led by artist Hermine Sammut and wandered along a golden moonscape to discover how the locals still gather sea salt.

continue reading "Unique Treks in Malta"

Panama Beyond the Canal

For many people, a trip to Panama City isn't complete without visiting the Canal. Having transited the Canal and blogged about learning about its inner workings, I would agree. But I found in my Panama City wanderings, I also found that there were many green spaces as well as other gems that had nothing to do with the Canal. The green spaces, in particular, seemed little visited. Which is one reason why I sought them out. I recently wrote a piece on Eight Cool Things to do in Panama City for GoNOMAD that involve walking, biking or hiking or present interesting cultural offerings. You'll find out where you can roam around the ruins of old Panama City, rent a bicycle to peddle along a car-free waterside lane, or hike through an urban jungle with plenty of bird watching opportunities.

Things To Do

continue reading "Panama Beyond the Canal"

Oahu: My Favorite Walking Spots

Sure visitors flock to Oahu for its golden crescents of sand and it's surf-centered sports. But whenever I'm on the island, I don my walking or hiking shoes to explore some of my favorite parks and gardens.


I didn't run into anyone at Ka'ena Point, the western most point of Oahu that's accessible only by foot or mountain bike. This wind-swept expanse of dunes and tiny beaches is an albatross nesting site where, on my several visited, I spied monk seals, dolphins, whales, and green sea turtles.


Not far from Diamond Head, the Koko Crater Botanical Garden is lush with sweet-smelling plumeria trees. In this 200-acre arid garden that's set in two craters, I again was one of only few visitors. This time I was mesmerized by the towering crater walls.


At Makapuu Point, I walked a road to the lighthouse that hugs a lava cliff where I had panoramic views of the Koko Crater and Molokai. I even spotted some whales in the open ocean as I took the unofficial cliff trail to the bottom.


It's easy to spend the whole day in Hoomaluhia Botanical Gardens, which is blessed with 400 verdant acres laden with heliconia and other sweet-smelling blossoms and other plants from around the world. I strolled the more than half dozen different trails that wander through a landscape rimmed with sheer-walled cliffs and the ocean beyond. This garden couldn't be a more perfect place to lay out the beach blanket and chill.


I knew it was impossible to walk the entire 700+ acres of the leafy Senator Fong's Plantation Gardens. Luckily, they provide a narrated tram tour as well as guided nature walks through a small portion of this green space. Here, I learned how kukio nut trees are used to make hair conditions; ti leaves are considered good luck; mango is related to poison ivy; queen ginger can grow to 10 feet tall and a rose apple smells like a rose and tastes like an apricot.

Things To Do

continue reading "Oahu: My Favorite Walking Spots"

Wandering in Turkey's Cappadocia Region

I've posted quite a bit about my adventures in Turkey, including Istanbul, Bozcaada Island and Kas. Perhaps one of my most atmospheric journeys in Turkey was walking and hiking in the Cappadocia region. Typically, visitors sign up with a tour group that either drives from village to village hopping off at key sites or they take a hike with a large group that wanders through some of the most popular valleys. Still others take to the skies, floating over the land in multi-colored hot air balloons. Others stroll the trails on their own, hoping to soak up the atmosphere with no particular agenda in mind and probably also missing some historically significant but off-the-radar sights. But traveling with Walking Mehmet is perhaps the most authentic way of learning about this area with its cave-carved churches, monasteries and chapels with curious monoliths termed fairy chimneys adding to the exotic aura of this area.
I recently wrote about my day of Zen-like hiking in this area on National Geographic Traveler's Intelligent Travel blog.http://intelligenttravel.nationalgeographic.com/2009/11/16/mindfully_meandering_in_turkey/

continue reading "Wandering in Turkey's Cappadocia Region"

Wild & Wonderful Jamaica

I'm always on the hunt for authentic experiences and I found it in Jamaica in Port Antonio, a wildly lush land defined by the rugged Blue Mountains in the northeastern sector of the island.

1. Most visitors would probably choose a hotel or inn beside a golden sand beach. Instead, my base was an inn that sat atop a high hill and required driving along narrow winding roads that climbed steeply up the hillside. But it was all worth it. Staying at Jamaica Heights Resort is like bedding down in a botanical garden. The property is littered with red ginger, bougainvillea, wild orchids and hundreds of other botanical delights. It's a low-key, economical establishment where we had panoramic views of the mists coating the tall Blue Mountains. One of the cottages was my favorite: it's got expansive views on all sides so that you look out over Port Antonio right from your bed.


2. We boarded a small boat for nearby Navy Island -- it's officially closed to the public but that didn't stop us -- that was once owned by actor Erroll Flynn who entertained many a celeb guest here. On this little leafy hideaway with the faded ruins of his mansion, we walked through shallow waters from a protected harborside beach where there was some good swimming, to oceanside white sands that were backed with mangrove trees. We had the place to ourselves until a few snorkelers showed up.


3. I'm always up for walking and hiking and found the Swift River Valley provided a perfect venue for scenic treks. Here I found the land thick with cocoa, coffee, grapefruit and guava trees. Walking through the eponymous hamlet beside the trailhead, we spotted freshly-caught crayfish for sale. Further along, locals were fishing for mullet and trout in the adjacent river.
4. Everywhere we ventured in Port Antonio we marveled at the different hued waters. In the case of the Blue Lagoon of Brooke Shields fame, we found jade-colored deep waters. This couldn't be a more perfect place for a placid swim in a amphitheater lush with palms, almond trees and ferns.

5. One of our best lunches was at Winnifred Beach, a swath of sand where shacks sold chicken feet and boiled corn and an old Rastafarian practiced his yoga postures. My fave restaurant was plenty informal. Owned by Cynthia and Painter, this eatery served up large portions of freshly-caught snapper and lobster along with pumpkin and plantains.

6. Another culinary find is Dawn's Bar, a roadside stand in the seaside village of Manchioneal. Their seafood can't be beat -- we ordered the conch soup with crayfish and sweet roasted doctor fish stuffed with okra.
7. You can't leave Port Antonio without walking, hiking and taking a dip at Reach Falls. There are plenty of pools to take a dip. Along the way, we walked barefoot in the shallow river and along the parallel trail half a mile upstream, passing mini-waterfalls and plenty of foliage, including heliconia, and ferns.
8. Another activity that is synonymous with Port Antonio is a river rafting trip down the Rio Grande River. This was no ordinary raft, however. We sat in a 30-foot-long bamboo raft piloted by Captain Bell, a river veteran who once took Errol Flynn's guests rafting. For seven miles, we cruised through a serene landscape with great blue herons, vine-covered trees, shore-side boulders and towering cliffs.

continue reading "Wild & Wonderful Jamaica"

Meandering from Gaming to Gardens in Macau

Like many people, when I heard Macau I thought gambling. After all, flashy behemoth casino resorts like the Venetian, Grand Lisboa, Wynn and others attract those who make the ultra-short hydrofoil trip from Hong Kong not for Macau's lush parks and gardens but for the joy (or heartbreak) that awaits at the craps and baccarat tables. Then again, those non-gambler members of the family may find themselves ensconced with the masses who are mesmerized by glitzy sound and light shows where trees rise from the ground and transform through all four seasons in under what seemed like four minutes, dragons roil across a domed midnight sky of fire and ice, and the resident Cirque du Soleil troupe perform their aerial acrobatics in an otherworldly realm.
But, given the nature lover that I am, I sought out Macau's more serene side -- and found plenty of it. In fact, flora-draped parks and gardens are an easy walk or taxi from your hotel, wherever that may be because this peninsula -- and its two tiny offshore islands -- all on China's south coast, is petite. So small, in fact, that a local told me a rush hour traffic jam is when it takes 15 minutes to get home.

During my five days in Macau, these are some of my many eco-adventures:

1. Camoes Garden -- Dedicated to Portuguese poet, Luis de Camoes, this garden is coated with dense foliage, including some towering Ficus trees with impressive buttress roots. Despite the sweltering heat, I found plenty of shade under the tree canopies. It's worth wandering around the meandering paths here to find locals performing tai chi exercises with brightly colored fans as well as those walking barefoot along an ultra-rough pebbled trail as a form of reflexology. (Some people find it better than a traditional foot massage.) Other residents meditate atop giant boulders while small groups of men enjoy card games in a gazebo.
2. Guia Hill -- Despite temperatures soaring into the high 90s and humidity feeling like it was over 90%, I didn't want to miss walking along the shaded 1.2-mile jogging path that encircles Guia Hill, Macau's highest point and home to China's oldest coastal lighthouse. I tackled the path after 5 pm on a weekday and found plenty of joggers and walkers -- some sans shoes -- sharing the path which still felt serene. Along the way are spots with panoramic city views as well as side trails leading either up towards the lighthouse or down to an adjacent park, Flora Garden.


3. Flora Garden -- I rushed past the zoo, cable car and aviary to check out the less tourist-laden sections of the park. Instead, I climbed steeply up the many-tiered park to find secluded alcoves, belvederes and a narrow stone path surrounded by dense foliage that leads eventually to the main jogging path around Guia Hill.

4. Lou Lim Ieoc Garden -- Anyone who loves landscape design will enjoy wandering this classic Chinese garden complete with a moon gate, placid water features, winding paths and dozens of rugged and oddly-shaped stones pockmarked with holes -- some allowing you to climb stairs above it all or penetrate into shallow grottoes. One section of a pond had voluminous lotus leaves coating its surface. This property is also the site of arts and crafts exhibitions -- when I visited on display was a calligraphy exhibit.
5. Dr. Carlos D'Assumpcao Park -- Just steps from my hotel along the harbor, the MGM Grand, I found a small rectangle of peace. Early Sunday morning, I strolled along the paths that bordered and crossed over a pool where lily pads floated, and then continued along a straight avenue lined with shade trees. Nearby, local men and women practiced their slo-mo tai chi choreography.

6. Carmel Gardens -- Located on Taipa Island, these gardens are named for the pastel yellow painted church, Our Lady of Carmel, a neo-classical building sitting at one of the upper gardens. Here I found dozens of blooming flowers, palms and conifers as well as a flora-covered pergola. Then I walked a narrow path down to a lower garden where a couple of men were planting and weeding. These gardens are especially delightful for the offshore bird sanctuary as well as the five restored mansions that have been mostly turned into museum pieces that provide a window into Macau's past.

7. Seac Pai Van Park -- On Coloane Island I spent time walking the main Coloane Trail that looped around the upper reaches of the park. Though I was told that it'd be difficult to find my way given that the trail signs are in Portuguese and Chinese, that I'd find myself alone on the trail because it was noon on a weekday, and that the heat would be unbearable at this time of the day, I had no trouble. Not only that, but walking this path was one of the highlights of my trip. Yes, I met few people along the path that's about 5 miles long. But the handful of folks I ran across were all hiking the same level path and all were helpful when I showed them my map. In addition, all trail intersections are carefully marked -- it's hard to get lost. Plus, if you were the least bit confused, you could walk up (not down) and you'd find yourself at the A-Ma statue set atop the island's highest point. (From there you can walk the paved path down or see if the free shuttle bus is running back to the main road.)

Don't miss the informal arboretum at the start of the trail where all the trees -- whether laurels, soapberry or tropical ornamental -- are labelled with Latin names for those with botanical interests. The trail is dotted with perfectly placed pagodas and benches to rest, gaze at the views of the beaches or waters far below or just relish the serenity. Something I found at all these parks and gardens.

continue reading "Meandering from Gaming to Gardens in Macau"

New Zealand's Short but Sweet Walks

The long-distance Milford Track is hardly the only scenic hiking trail in New Zealand, but it's the one on every visitor's mind. There are dozens of other shorter hikes -- some quite secluded with few visitors, perhaps because they believe it requires several days of trekking to see New Zealand's natural beauty. Some trails only take five minutes, others are several hours, where you'll have the opportunity to see glowworms, glaciers, thundering waterfalls and rare penguins. These are some of my favorites:

• On the Minnehaha walk, you'll pass through a cool, lush rainforest almost adjacent to a fast-flowing glacier. Moss drapes kamahi trees and giant ferns abound as you prowl around at night with glowworms lighting your way.

• Stroll the Lake Matheson walk for ever-present views of the snowy peaks of Mt. Cook and Mt. Tasman. (They're visible on the mirror-like surface of the lake.)

• Less than an hour walk down an old mining trail takes you to Monro Beach where you can spy rare Fiordland Crested Penguins nesting.

• Off the road to Haast, a two-minute walk through a silver beech forest takes you to Thunder Creek Falls that gracefully tumbles some 90 feet into the Haast River. This is hardly an undiscovered locale but it's worth visiting because of the intimacy you'll have with this waterfall in this rocky gorge.

• Queenstown alone has half a dozen short, often superbly scenic, walks, including the 1,600-foot-climb through Douglas fir, mountain ash and sycamore to the summit of Queenstown Hill with 360-degree panoramic views of the surrounding dramatic peaks.

• A 20-minute walk in Paparoa National Park on the ever popular Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes trail will take you on one of the most beautiful short walks in New Zealand. One moment, you're on the blacktop road, the next you are enveloped in the coastal rainforest with giant rata and kahikatea trees; the trail ends on the rocky coast where you'll find curious limestone rock formations and the sea surges that produce some even more curious sound effects, with one sounding like a train rushing through a New York City subway tunnel. (It's best to visit during high tide and when the sea is rough to get the full effect.)


• The longest of this lot is the two-hour jaunt on the Whakapapanui trail where you'll cross a golden river bed and have views of the active volcano, Mt. Ngauruhoe, that was Mt. Doom in my favorite movie of all time, Lord of the Rings.

continue reading "New Zealand's Short but Sweet Walks"