My Favorite Car-Free Islands in Europe

Who doesn't love islands? But I'm quite particular, favoring those that harken to an earlier time, when cars didn't exist as the primary means of transportation. Yes, I search out car-free islands because it's these landscapes where I can feel free to explore in a pollution free environment, without the squealing of brakes or the honking of horns, where I can depend on human-powered locomotion to visit historic sites or just peacefully prowl around coves, hamlets and green spaces. You never know what you'll discover when you're not in a rush.

I recently wrote an article for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Traveler  on my favorite car-free islands in Europe.

Comino Island - Photo by Bill Kasman, Flickr

These are some of my finds on my top five:

• Buyukada, Turkey Grand villas, some with gingerbread detailing, line the lanes that weave down to the south end of the island, which is largely draped in emerald hues from dense pine forests.
•  Hydra, Greece - A two-hour climb brings hikers to the Monastery of Prophet Elias that hovers above the capital. A much shorter jaunt is the coastal walk to Vlychos Beach, an ideal destination for families.

•  Veliki Brijun, Brijuni National Park, Croatia - Dinosaur footprints, such as the imprint of large carnivores similar to Theropods, have been discovered all over the island.

•  Ile d'aix, France - The northeast portion is especially lovely, blanketed with thick pinewoods and rimmed with two jewels: Baby Beach and Yellow Sands Beach. 

•  Comino Island, Malta - Hiking through the wildflower-speckled landscape, a path courses to an isolated, rubble-ridden area, a perfect setting for the 17th century St. Mary's Tower that withstood sieges far beyond what the archipelago's other towers tolerated.

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Hiking Portugal's Longest Trail

Think Portugal and what comes to mind? Of course the vibrant capital of Lisbon, swaths of sandy beaches, rich port wines, fortified hilltop towns, and ruins from Roman and megalithic periods. What about hiking? Probably not. But your next trip to Portugal should include hiking, thanks to a brand new trail, the longest in Portugal. Whether for a day or a week, you'll find that this trail, the Rota Vicentina, is all about authenticity in that the people who created it teamed up with rural accommodations that are locally owned to highlight a part of the country that sees little outside travelers. (And they did it without building a waterfront resort or yet another golf course.)

I recently wrote about my hike along the Rota Vicentina for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel.

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Birds and Botanicals in Bermuda

I found plenty to keep me active in Bermuda that's known for its pastel-colored houses and tidy hedge-rimmed English gardens. But after walking the narrow streets of St. George's where 17th century buildings and a sense of British colonial history abounds, and then exploring the hidden coves and the soft pink sand of Horseshoe Bay, I sought out more leafy venues for walking, hiking and biking. That way I could learn about Bermuda's flora, including the endemic, as well as check out the bird species, because I heard that Bermuda is a great place for birding, almost year round. In the fall, in particular, Bermuda is the place where migratory birds rest on their way from Canada to South America. In addition, birders delight in spotting the rare petrel that was though to be extinct for hundreds of years.

1. Eighteen miles of rail bed once traversed by the Bermuda railroad (up until the late 1940s) have been converted to the Railway Trail. This path skirts the coastline, passes traditional manor houses and winds through woodlands, fields and a palmetto forest. Walk or bike even part of this secluded trail. You'll be far from any street traffic -- the trail meanders along the coast at times, at other points you'll be under a canopy of foliage and pass old manor houses. Just be aware that it's westernmost part that's the easiest: relatively flat and mostly paved. And, to get the most out of your journey, try to pick up the Bermuda Railway Trail Guide available from the tourism offices on the island.

2. Spittal Pond has 60-some acres of unspoiled wilderness (actually protected wetlands) where you can bird watch - this green space is especially good to catch migratory birds -- or hike on densely canopied trails. (This green space may be the best birding spot in Bermuda). Nature or mystery lovers alike will delight in a trek through this woodland. Aside from herons, flamingos and other waterfowl, on your walk past cedar trees, ponds and along the coast, you'll find a giant stone "checkerboard" believed to be formed by water erosion and a plaque at Spanish Rock with cryptic inscriptions. The latter is said to offer the oldest piece of evidence for the island's habitation: Spanish sailors are said to have landed here in the 16th century.


3. In Paget Marsh you'll find two dozen acres dense with palmetto and cedar forests that exists much as it did before settlers first arrived. Here you can wander the boardwalk that courses past grasslands and mangroves and expect to find plenty of bird life, such as king fishers, warblers and great egrets, and maybe even a giant toad.

4. Hog Bay Park is almost 40 acres of expansive forest, farm land and coastal property that sports undulating trails where you can take in the panoramic scenery from a hilltop -- providing maybe one of the best viewpoints in Bermuda. This park has an amazing array of birding possibilities, with more than 100 different species spotted, including purple finches and olive-sided flycatchers. After all the trail hopping, you can cool off at the shore whether by snorkeling or swimming.


5. Allspice and cedar trees are clustered on the landscape that's home to Warwick Pond, one of the island's largest freshwater ponds and a key site for bird life, both migratory and resident. Here you can meander on trails that wind past fields, marshes and, of course, plenty of woodland.


6. The Bermuda Botanical Gardens is hardly a wild locale but still worth a visit. Set on some 36 acres where the aromas are intoxicating, the garden is home to than 1,000 varieties of plant life, from frangipani to a giant banyan tree.


During your stay in Bermuda, if you'd rather hike with a group, check out the Walking Club of Bermuda that offers six-mile hikes or so with routes that change weekly.

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Radio Show: Unexpected Findings in Macau

I've posted and guest posted quite a bit recently on my travels in Macau and all of the unexpected treasures, whether it was a cutting edge art gallery exhibition in a colonial-style building, or a secluded garden or a hiking track that's smack in the middle of the city, but feels quite remote. Recently, Pat Boyle at the Travel Show on KPAM 860 radio in Portland, Oregan interviewed me on Macau.


I'd like to share with you some of the many curiosities I found, including a museum exhibit of caskets and tombstones reserved for prize-winning crickets (from the heyday of betting on cricket fighting); a hilltop summit that's home to a centuries-old fort, chapel and lighthouse (the oldest on the China coast); and a jogging path where quite a few of the locals jog on a sweltering day barefoot. Listen to this radio interview and you'll see why I fell in love with Macau, a place that has something for everyone, including those gastronomes or oenophiles in your group.

You can listen to my interview on Macau by clicking on the audio player below:

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Portugal Travel Tips

When people find out that I've visited Portugal six times in the past three years, they often wonder what is so enticing about this Western European country. So many people that I know who travel all over the world somehow have missed up on visiting Portugal. And, those who do make it to Portuguese shores, end up just spending a day or so in Lisbon, the capital.
Emily S. Gerson wanted to know what I love about Portugal and how I'd advise others to enjoy one of my favorite countries. Her interview with me appears on her blog Maiden Voyage. There are plenty of tips that can help you plan your itinerary along with hidden treasures galore. Whether you're an oenophile or a gastronome, someone who enjoys hiking in leafy forests or delights in a sense of history, you'll find it in Portugal.

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Meandering from Gaming to Gardens in Macau

Like many people, when I heard Macau I thought gambling. After all, flashy behemoth casino resorts like the Venetian, Grand Lisboa, Wynn and others attract those who make the ultra-short hydrofoil trip from Hong Kong not for Macau's lush parks and gardens but for the joy (or heartbreak) that awaits at the craps and baccarat tables. Then again, those non-gambler members of the family may find themselves ensconced with the masses who are mesmerized by glitzy sound and light shows where trees rise from the ground and transform through all four seasons in under what seemed like four minutes, dragons roil across a domed midnight sky of fire and ice, and the resident Cirque du Soleil troupe perform their aerial acrobatics in an otherworldly realm.
But, given the nature lover that I am, I sought out Macau's more serene side -- and found plenty of it. In fact, flora-draped parks and gardens are an easy walk or taxi from your hotel, wherever that may be because this peninsula -- and its two tiny offshore islands -- all on China's south coast, is petite. So small, in fact, that a local told me a rush hour traffic jam is when it takes 15 minutes to get home.

During my five days in Macau, these are some of my many eco-adventures:

1. Camoes Garden -- Dedicated to Portuguese poet, Luis de Camoes, this garden is coated with dense foliage, including some towering Ficus trees with impressive buttress roots. Despite the sweltering heat, I found plenty of shade under the tree canopies. It's worth wandering around the meandering paths here to find locals performing tai chi exercises with brightly colored fans as well as those walking barefoot along an ultra-rough pebbled trail as a form of reflexology. (Some people find it better than a traditional foot massage.) Other residents meditate atop giant boulders while small groups of men enjoy card games in a gazebo.
2. Guia Hill -- Despite temperatures soaring into the high 90s and humidity feeling like it was over 90%, I didn't want to miss walking along the shaded 1.2-mile jogging path that encircles Guia Hill, Macau's highest point and home to China's oldest coastal lighthouse. I tackled the path after 5 pm on a weekday and found plenty of joggers and walkers -- some sans shoes -- sharing the path which still felt serene. Along the way are spots with panoramic city views as well as side trails leading either up towards the lighthouse or down to an adjacent park, Flora Garden.


3. Flora Garden -- I rushed past the zoo, cable car and aviary to check out the less tourist-laden sections of the park. Instead, I climbed steeply up the many-tiered park to find secluded alcoves, belvederes and a narrow stone path surrounded by dense foliage that leads eventually to the main jogging path around Guia Hill.

4. Lou Lim Ieoc Garden -- Anyone who loves landscape design will enjoy wandering this classic Chinese garden complete with a moon gate, placid water features, winding paths and dozens of rugged and oddly-shaped stones pockmarked with holes -- some allowing you to climb stairs above it all or penetrate into shallow grottoes. One section of a pond had voluminous lotus leaves coating its surface. This property is also the site of arts and crafts exhibitions -- when I visited on display was a calligraphy exhibit.
5. Dr. Carlos D'Assumpcao Park -- Just steps from my hotel along the harbor, the MGM Grand, I found a small rectangle of peace. Early Sunday morning, I strolled along the paths that bordered and crossed over a pool where lily pads floated, and then continued along a straight avenue lined with shade trees. Nearby, local men and women practiced their slo-mo tai chi choreography.

6. Carmel Gardens -- Located on Taipa Island, these gardens are named for the pastel yellow painted church, Our Lady of Carmel, a neo-classical building sitting at one of the upper gardens. Here I found dozens of blooming flowers, palms and conifers as well as a flora-covered pergola. Then I walked a narrow path down to a lower garden where a couple of men were planting and weeding. These gardens are especially delightful for the offshore bird sanctuary as well as the five restored mansions that have been mostly turned into museum pieces that provide a window into Macau's past.

7. Seac Pai Van Park -- On Coloane Island I spent time walking the main Coloane Trail that looped around the upper reaches of the park. Though I was told that it'd be difficult to find my way given that the trail signs are in Portuguese and Chinese, that I'd find myself alone on the trail because it was noon on a weekday, and that the heat would be unbearable at this time of the day, I had no trouble. Not only that, but walking this path was one of the highlights of my trip. Yes, I met few people along the path that's about 5 miles long. But the handful of folks I ran across were all hiking the same level path and all were helpful when I showed them my map. In addition, all trail intersections are carefully marked -- it's hard to get lost. Plus, if you were the least bit confused, you could walk up (not down) and you'd find yourself at the A-Ma statue set atop the island's highest point. (From there you can walk the paved path down or see if the free shuttle bus is running back to the main road.)

Don't miss the informal arboretum at the start of the trail where all the trees -- whether laurels, soapberry or tropical ornamental -- are labelled with Latin names for those with botanical interests. The trail is dotted with perfectly placed pagodas and benches to rest, gaze at the views of the beaches or waters far below or just relish the serenity. Something I found at all these parks and gardens.

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New Zealand's Short but Sweet Walks

The long-distance Milford Track is hardly the only scenic hiking trail in New Zealand, but it's the one on every visitor's mind. There are dozens of other shorter hikes -- some quite secluded with few visitors, perhaps because they believe it requires several days of trekking to see New Zealand's natural beauty. Some trails only take five minutes, others are several hours, where you'll have the opportunity to see glowworms, glaciers, thundering waterfalls and rare penguins. These are some of my favorites:

• On the Minnehaha walk, you'll pass through a cool, lush rainforest almost adjacent to a fast-flowing glacier. Moss drapes kamahi trees and giant ferns abound as you prowl around at night with glowworms lighting your way.

• Stroll the Lake Matheson walk for ever-present views of the snowy peaks of Mt. Cook and Mt. Tasman. (They're visible on the mirror-like surface of the lake.)

• Less than an hour walk down an old mining trail takes you to Monro Beach where you can spy rare Fiordland Crested Penguins nesting.

• Off the road to Haast, a two-minute walk through a silver beech forest takes you to Thunder Creek Falls that gracefully tumbles some 90 feet into the Haast River. This is hardly an undiscovered locale but it's worth visiting because of the intimacy you'll have with this waterfall in this rocky gorge.

• Queenstown alone has half a dozen short, often superbly scenic, walks, including the 1,600-foot-climb through Douglas fir, mountain ash and sycamore to the summit of Queenstown Hill with 360-degree panoramic views of the surrounding dramatic peaks.

• A 20-minute walk in Paparoa National Park on the ever popular Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes trail will take you on one of the most beautiful short walks in New Zealand. One moment, you're on the blacktop road, the next you are enveloped in the coastal rainforest with giant rata and kahikatea trees; the trail ends on the rocky coast where you'll find curious limestone rock formations and the sea surges that produce some even more curious sound effects, with one sounding like a train rushing through a New York City subway tunnel. (It's best to visit during high tide and when the sea is rough to get the full effect.)


• The longest of this lot is the two-hour jaunt on the Whakapapanui trail where you'll cross a golden river bed and have views of the active volcano, Mt. Ngauruhoe, that was Mt. Doom in my favorite movie of all time, Lord of the Rings.

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