Unique and Evocative Accommodations in Wales

Wales is blessed with so many natural and cultural treasures. And one way to get acquainted with what this country has to offer is by booking a stay at one of several unique accommodations that vary from the serene to the quirky. You can read about six of these in my latest article for ForbesLife. 

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Staying in Portugal’s Alentejo Region - Part 3

 In Portugal’s Alentejo region, a stay at the treasured boutique property, Herdade da Matinha, brings lessons in a love of nature, life, family and the vibrancy that unites it all. Behind the surfboard is one of the myriad vivid paintings of the man at the helm: Alfredo Moreira da Silva.

At this accommodation, there’s a pervasive sense of joy — of life, art, creativity and nature.

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A Winter Visit to Spring Lake

 Even in the winter, Spring Lake couldn’t be more scenic in the early morning. Mallard ducks and the occasional heron huddle near the shore.

One of two historic footbridges that cross over scenic Spring Lake - now partially frozen - in the same named charming town in New Jersey.

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Off-Season Travels in Spring Lake, New Jersey

 As I continue my off-season travels, I find myself at the delightful Chateau Inn and Suites in Spring Lake, New Jersey where the vibe is calm, the hospitality is ever present, the views are bucolic and the decor is captivating. (It’s hard to pull away from the sun-fill lounge with its creative holiday blue motif.)

Sipping a glass of pinot noir in the lounge at the Chateau Inn and Suites, I was wrapped in an atmosphere that assured a festive mood.

Spring Lake and the Chateau Inn and Suites that faces the lake have a relaxed vibe with an abundance of holiday cheer.

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A Bucolic and Historic Accommodation in Delaware

 Just a few miles from Wilmington, the Inn at Montchanin Village & Spa combines a sense of history — it’s connected to the DuPonts and the buildings date to the 18th century — with some whimsical landscaping. Walking from my cottage in the early morning, I found that the gardens instilled a sense of peace.

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More Nature-Based Discoveries in Delaware

This is the second of three posts documenting my nature-based findings while visited Wilmington, Delaware, President Biden’s hometown, as well as the surrounding Brandywine Valley. 

The myriad colors and textures in the gardens of the Nemours Estate, a grand duPont property, easily allow visitors to be wrapped up in a sense of tranquility that seems endless.

A sense of magic and wonder pervades the stunning grounds of The Inn at Montchanin Village, a former 19th century hamlet and DuPont property that exudes charm and offers a window into a long ago era.

Broad sweeps of verdancy characterize the serene Brandywine Valley that surrounds Wilmington, Delaware.

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A Creative and Comfy Inn in Connecticut

A stay at the Homestead Bed and Breakfast, a family-owned inn in Madison, Connecticut, couldn’t be more comfortable and comforting, especially in these stress-filled days of the pandemic. During my recent stay, I was swaddled in a large, white-on-white guest room with nothing but views of nature. It’s what my soul required.

The public spaces are able to meld the vintage (an array of vintage cameras, typewriters, stereoscopes and other objects) with the whimsical. I’m a big fan of this playful display.

There are so many artistic surprises at this inn. I found this table and wee gourd on my patio.

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A Quiet, Scenic Corner of Connecticut

Madison is one of my favorite Connecticut towns for its slo-mo vibe, scrumptious French bistro, sweeping waterfront views and nature-based activities. On my recent visit, I sought the enveloping peace at Hammonasset Beach State Park.

Even in moody weather, Hammonasset Beach State Park in Connecticut is inspiring. This expansive salt marsh is one of the park’s many eco treasures.

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The Weekapaug Inn in Rhode Island

 In these days of the pandemic, it’s more important than ever to find time to get away for a mental health vacation. Most importantly, the destination should be COVID conscious, provide some much needed pampering while also offering access to nature and outdoor adventures that calm the spirit. This is my latest for Forbes on the Weekapaug Inn in Rhode Island. 

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Nature-Based Adventures in Rhode Island

Many travelers associated Rhode Island solely with summer fun and, especially, with a visit to Block Island. But there’s so much more to experience in this the smallest state in the U.S. With hundreds of miles of coastline and myriad state parks in the interior, Rhode Island is a year-round delight. Here are some photos from my most recent travels there. 

After the skies cleared one stormy morning in Weekapaug, Rhode Island, I strolled along the waterfront and found the silence to be stunning and comforting.

Solitary hiking along the DuVal Trail system in Rhode Island gave me an opportunity to feel an intimate connection with nature, whether it’s the enchanting tree tunnels, the colorful thickets of mountain laurel, or the fields of glacial boulders that are clustered in the shade of black oak and white pine trees.

 

At the Weekapaug Inn in Westerly, RHode Island, I had numerous opportunities to connect with nature, including kayaking on this placid salt water pond. 

As I strolled along the barrier beach steps away from the Weekapaug Inn in Rhode Island, I was enwrapped by a sense of the serene and the scenic.

While roaming along the coastline of Rhode Island’s Weekapaug area, I explored the wee lanes that wiggled through the serene neighborhood.

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Art, Food, Cocktails and Coffee in Kingston, New York

Many of my friends and colleagues assume that I only travel to far-flung locales. In fact, I'm all about discovery, whether it's along an alley I never strolled along in New York City or a neighborhood that's just a day trip away from Manhattan. That's why I decided to take bus to Kingston, New York, a mere two hours away. So close but a town I never had the opportunity to visit. Though I only spent two days, I could've easily have enjoyed the myriad coffee shops, restaurants, bars and street art for far longer. Below are just a few of the art-centric discoveries I made recently in Kingston, a city that's broken up into three sections -- Downtown, Midtown and Uptown -- that together make up a more than two-mile walkable expanse. Among the must-dos: stay at The Forsyth B&B, where the owner, Tamara Ehlin, is warm, welcoming, and can cook and bake up a storm, and present it all in an elegant manner, no less. You never know what will come out of the kitchen. There's no need to look for another accommodation when The Forsyth B&B has availability. To not stay here is to miss out on Tamara's elaborate breakfasts that included apple cider, yogurt with homemade granola and freshly cut pears, cheddar/scallion scones, and sweet potato hash with eggs any style. Another must is dinner at Wilde Beest, a locavore-centric, minimalist eatery with a slim menu that radiates creativity. I'm no fan of kale, yet I ordered the "I'm Kale" appetizer that came with crumbled kale, pickled peaches, golden raisins, fried millet, porcini mushroom powder and cashew dressing. I could've had seconds. And, in Kingston, I may have found my favorite coffee shop of all time: Rough Draft Bar & Books. Sitting at the corner of an intersection where each of the four buildings dates back centuries, this establishment is a coffee shop, bookstore, cafe and wine bar. As a writer who spends my time working in coffee shops, you couldn't have asked for a better, more atmospheric place to spend an hour or a day. I was lucky to grab a stool at the picture window and watch snowflakes fall as I gazed at the holidays lights strung about this area. Finally, I'm very finicky about bars. They can't be too loud or too bright or too pretentious. Crown, a just-opened romantic lounge in a centuries-old stone building, provides a perfect intimate environment to sip a fine wine or a well crafted, seasonal cocktail.

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Nevis In The Caribbean - In Pictures

Have you ever heard of Nevis? If you asked "what's that," you're not alone. When I recently told all my travel savvy friends I was heading to Nevis for a few days, that was their response. But, when I said it was near St. Kitts, then everyone responded with recognition, not of Nevis but of its sister island It's too bad because what they're missing is a lush, volcanic island where the picturesque views of the probably extinct volcanic cone, Mt. Nevis -- it rises more than 3,000 feet smack in the center of the island -- are ever present. Most visitors come to this wee island to climb this majestic peak, an almost all-day challenging activity, or settle into one of many villas in the interior where privacy is respected. So much so that this island is quite attractive to the celebrity set. But my interests were altogether different. I stayed at a boutique inn, Golden Rock, where one of the guest accommodations is a converted old sugar mill and where the surrounding gardens are designed by renowned landscape designer Raymond Jungles; trekked along placid nature paths and rain forest trails where I didn't run into anyone else; explored the Botanical Garden that offers a high antioxidant purple-hued icy beverage in a scenic veranda; and visited the various old sugar plantations that are now home to expansive, upscale but low-key resorts. My YouTube video slideshow provides a window into my journey.

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A Penthouse Stay in New York City

As I writer, I'm fairly particular about what venues spur my creativity. My biggest necessity is natural light, and lots of it. In the summer, when I work outside on the waterfront in Battery Park City, light clearly isn't a problem. But, the rest of the year, abundant sunlight streaming into my writing venues, whether coffee shops or public atria, is a precious commodity in New York City. Since I live in a small and, I might add, dark dwelling in Queens, a NYC suburb, I'm not one to work at home. Plus, sometimes I prefer to work into the wee hours of the morning while remaining free of the normal house-bound distractions. That's why I recently chose a  mid-week getaway in the Penthouse Suite at the Gracie Inn Hotel on the Upper East Side.

Housed in a century-old building, the five-floor Gracie Inn offers guests a choice of 13 different rooms. And, though a penthouse sounds like it would come with an astronomical price tag, interestingly, this duplex suite accommodates six people. And, with nightly rates of $300 to $400, that's fairly economical, given that it's in Manhattan where ordinary rooms can go for at least that price; it's got a prime Upper East Side location that's way more tranquil than New York's prime tourist neighborhoods; and, most importantly for me, my duplex is designed with a sun room and the outdoor terrace on the upper floor.  Light poured in through the sun room's immense window that looked out to the terrace, the two venues where I spent most of my time. I chose the perfect time for my writer's retreat: the winter weather was unseasonably mild at 67°F. (I also made good use of the teal-hued hot tub set just below another window that provided light galore.) Though the lower level was equipped with a kitchenette, living room and bedroom, I found the low natural light conditions on that floor not to my liking. 

I checked out some of the other rooms in the inn and found that those facing the street also had some acceptable natural light, while those accommodations looking out to the rear were quite dark. Of course, many people are unaffected by somber lighting conditions, some even prefer it.

Though I took some creative breaks to explore my Upper East Side neighborhood, if you preferred to avoid leaving your room, the Gracie Inn makes it easy given that breakfast is served in bed. Each guest can choose four items from the menu, which includes juices, toast, yogurt, bagels, croissants, fruit and cereal. However, because I try to eat healthfully, which means opting for low-fat dining, I would've preferred if non-fat yogurt, skim milk and whole grain muffins were on the menu. 

Another caveat worth mentioning is that, during my stay, I found a number of maintenance issues, including the on again-off again (more off than on) WiFi, the ultra-loose shower head, the blinds that fell off the window in the bedroom on the lower level when I attempted to raise them, the satellite TV connection that also was on again-off again (though there are two plasma screen TVs and only the one on the lower floor was on the fritz), and some curious sooty substance in the hot tub (which didn't stop me from luxuriating in it after I flooded it with running water and soap).

In my book, the Gracie Inn Hotel is a laid-back, low-key bargain. Don't expect luxe furnishings or amenities. The shampoo and soaps are all basic brands and many of the furnishings are antiques from the original apartments in this building. But, because of this sun-filled penthouse and the inn's location in a trendy Manhattan neighborhood, I would gladly stay here again.

When I dragged myself away from my perch in the late afternoon, I walked one block to the East River Greenway. Paralleling the water, the paved path attracts walkers, runners, and bladers or those who just want to lounge on the myriad riverfront benches. The most refreshing section passes Carl Schurz Park, a sprawling green space with winding paths, dense patches of woodland, stone stairways leading to peaceful alcoves and spacious lawns. After jogging north, I retraced my path, cutting into the park that's home to the Mayor's official residence, Gracie Mansion. Mayor Michael Bloomberg never moved into Gracie Mansion -- though he lives on the Upper East Side -- but it's open for tours of the canary-yellow-painted building on most Wednesdays.

On my way back to the Gracie Inn, I found a new spot for wine tasting, Vino-Versity. Part wine shop, part wine school, it's set up to educate the consumer on the intricacies of viticulture in a fun, light and approachable way. They usually offer up to five wines to taste. (I sampled the Santa Julia Chardonnay from Argentina, which had melon notes and another Argentinean variety, Cuma Torrontes, that had a hint of citrus and is said to go well with guacamole.) Every day of the week they hold classes and tasting events with a different theme. Saturday is Bubbles, Bubbles Everywhere. In other words, you'll learn the difference between Prosecco and Cava, while Fridays is The Spiritual Experience where you'll compare artisan liquors.

My next stop was for take-out dinner at Chennai, an Indian restaurant where, for $15, you get a choice of appetizers (I opted for the vegetable samosa) and an entree (I chose the mangalorean, a spicy chicken with green chilies, ginger and fresh curry leaves). Back at the inn, my terrace made for a perfect venue for dining on this flavorful cuisine as the sun slowly set.

I still had the whole night ahead of me to work on some creative brainstorming while sipping wine and lounging in the hot tub.

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Finding an Authentic Bahamas

I've never been a fan of mega beachfront resorts, which line former pristine swaths of sand. To me they represent development gone awry. So when I was planning my trip to the Bahamas, I wanted to steer clear of any chain properties as well as those that featured gambling, water parks and the like. So, I focused my attention on the Out Islands of the Bahamas, which are particularly popular with fishermen and boaters. I finally decided on Long Island because it offered a nice mix of low key activities with plenty of authenticity. (My article and accompanying video slide show on pristine Long Island recently appeared in the Huffington Post.) But I realized that I'd have to overnight in Nassau because of flight scheduling issues. And this is where I was in a predicament, wanting an economical hotel that wasn't far from the airport and yet was laid back and charming.

It looked like these were tough criteria to meet and yet I thought I read about the Orange Hill Beach Inn. Then I started reading TripAdvisor and, curiously, the reviews were more all over the place than usual, with some saying they couldn't wait to return, that the staff couldn't have been friendlier and that it was a true hidden treasure, while others said it was filthy, the staff was rude and that the rooms were overprices. Wow, what a disparity. But, after looking at the expensive, glitzy alternatives, I decided to take the chance and I'm so glad I did.

I stayed two nights, one on each end of my trip to Long Island and I so wish that I had a week, that's how much I adored the Orange Hill Beach Inn. Yes, it's got a rough-around-the-edges feel. But it's also homey, and the staff was warm and welcoming. Yes, it's very low key but the setting, a lush garden expanse with all manner of blooming foliage, can't be beat. It's located literally across the street from a long sandy beach that I found perfect for walking or sunning with little in the way of crowds. My accommodation, which was one of two private cottages, was spacious with a wee kitchen and a small balcony where I sat and enjoyed the view from my mini-hilltop retreat. There's even a tiny man-made waterfall outside my door!

They have a small pool but my favorite activity was sitting in one of several wooden swing chairs amidst the palms, frangipani and other colorful and fragrant foliage. Among the other tropical plants on the property, we found bougainvillea, banana trees, sea grapes and dozens of other with blossoms in myriad hues. In the early morning, it was a delight to get a cup of coffee and sit amongst the foliage listening to the twittering birds, which were in abundance.

At first I thought that the location -- literally a five-minute cab ride from the airport -- would be noise (Not) and that it would be isolated (Not). In fact, the hotel does a daily grocery run giving you the opportunity to buy dinner fixings that you can cook if you're staying in one of the cottages. They can, sometimes, drop you off at a nearby restaurant that's also within walking distance. But, if none of that works for you, there's also a mini bus that runs along the coast that goes to and from downtown.

One of the best things about this inn is the food. They serve three meals but dinner is the real treat. The short menu changes nightly and during my two-night stay, they served chicken or shrimp fajitas, jerk chicken or tuna, grilled grouper, cracked conch, shrimp with pasta, and Bahamian lobster tail. My favorite was the Bahamian combo of chicken, ribs, and grouper fingers.

This is a family-owned business -- Judy, the owner, has had the place for 31 years. And they have a real following with guests returning year after year. In fact, it's not unusual to hang out in the bar, dining room or outside the reception area and find people you met on your previous visit.

So, where did all those bad reviews on TripAdvisor come from? Maybe some guests couldn't deal with some peeling paint, a faucet fixture that wasn't working properly or the shower that didn't heat up very fast. Remember, I said it was rough around the edges. Don't go expecting a palatial retreat. Go expecting to relax and enjoy the low-key Bahamian vibe, eat some tasty food, and maybe make some friends. That's what I did and I can't wait to return next year.

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Florida's Hidden Retreat

It's hard to believe that there are still hidden corners in Florida, a state I've criss crossed extensively. Yet, I just returned from Cedar Key that harks back to the Florida of maybe 50 years ago. But what was even more curious was that every single person I spoke with before my trip thought Cedar Key was part of the Florida Keys on the east coast. In fact, Cedar Key is on the west coast -- so, clearly, not part of the Keys. And given that there are no water parks, or beach resorts, and that it's one hour from Gainesville or two hours from Tampa, it's understandable why Cedar Key is off the radar.



The island of Cedar Key is one of 17 barrier islands, many of which are part of the pristine Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge.




Here's what I found and did:

1. Cedar Key is the farmed clam capital of the U.S. We enjoyed healthy, plump and juicy clams served in myriad ways

2. Kayaking along shallow salt marshes and marine estuaries

3. Plenty of bird watching possibilities, including shore birds like ibis, heron and egret

4. Bold sunsets that I never tired of watching

5. Roads where I rarely saw cars, making it perfect for renting a bike and pedaling around to the museums, old cemetery, petite landing strip and across the bridges linking four of the isles

6. Several state reserves, like the Cedar Key Scrub State Reserve, where I could walk sandy trails bordered by lush foliage and spy curious animal tracks

7. Wandering the town of Cedar Key to check out the arts and crafts shops where I talked with painters and sculptors

8. Taking a historic walking tour of the town that's dotted with buildings dating to the 19th century


My base for this five-day trip was the Cedar Key Bed & Breakfast, a yellow pine, two story 19th century dwelling just steps from the water. Here I knew I had just stepped into another world when owner Alice Phillips greeted me saying "We don't lock our doors here." To a native New Yorker, this couldn't have sounded more alien. But every night we found the door to the inn's public rooms unlocked. There we could raid the ever-present cookie jar for chocolate chip or oatmeal raisin cookies, M & Ms, or biscotti.



The town is oh, so walkable. So at night, we'd wander from dinner down the streets where everything shuts down at 9:30 pm to find our inn along a dark residential lane rimmed in tiny lights. What a welcome sight.

My room, the Honeymoon Cottage, one of the 7 rooms and 2 suites at this B & B -- was plenty quaint and comfy with thick bathrobes, a clawfoot tub, rose detailing, lace curtains and antique accoutrements.

But the key selling point of this room is the views of the garden with the 500-year-old live oak tree. As a New Yorker where views of nature are in short supply, I couldn't get enough of this one.

The backyard garden is where I spent much of my down time listening to the tinkling water fountain or watching the butterflies flitting about the blooming flowers. I often curled up with a book on the patio that fronts the backyard. And, despite the fact that the area drips with heat and humidity in the summer -- conditions I happen to love -- the patio was comfortable with its fans blowing a cooling breeze.

Every morning we were treated to fresh fruit salad, cinnamon raisin toast and bagels, yogurt and an ever-changing hot breakfast. The cream cheese omelet with chives was plenty flavorful. So was the French toast with nutmeg, and breakfast burrito with bacon and cheese. My favorite: the light-as-clouds pancakes. (I have a thing for pancakes that float off the plate; and these were so fluffy that I could've tied them down.)

The breakfast room, like the rest of the inn and Cedar Key in general, was like stepping back in time. An antique type phone and clock hung on the walls as did a framed set of the well-known Donax brushes that were made from local saw palmetto plants.

Alice and Bill, her husband and co-owner, keep a wall of DVDs, CDs and books to occupy anyone who can't find enough to do in and around the islands.

I spent five days here and I could've easily have spent another five or more. It's not every day that you find a warm, friendly place where the owners take such great care in providing their guests with everything they need for an enjoyable stay. They knew I'm very type A and I wanted to know everything there was to do and see and they didn't disappoint. They gave me the insider info on the best restaurant to eat chowder and who serves the best Key lime pie. They suggested who I should kayak with because I'm a novice kayaker as well as who gives one of the best boat tours in the area.

But even more important were the other guests who checked into the Cedar Key B & B. I rarely hold long conversations with guests at breakfast. But here I found people who were smart, interesting and welcoming who had a love of nature. And many of them had either been here before or, if not, they knew they'd return again. And I'll be one of them, too.

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Portugal's Stylish-Budget Inn

Wouldn't it be great if a budget accommodation didn't suffer from a lack of style. Well, you don't have to make that kind of compromise in Lisbon where I've found some stylish accomodations that could fit into just about anyone's slim travel budget. I recently guest blogged for Michael and Allison at Darn Good Digs that focuses in on cool accommodations under $150. Check out one of my fave budget accommodations in Lisbon that's not short on style.

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Corsica's Artisan Route

I always enjoy reading books or articles on places I've traveled and perusing the recent article on Corsica in Travel & Leisure was no exception. It's always great to see a country through the eyes of someone who has roots in the land, as the author does. As you know, I've posted on Corsica a couple of times already and have written many magazine articles, all focusing in on the off-the-beaten-track travel and hidden treasures that are my specialty. Since I noticed the T + L article didn't deal with one of my favorite haunts in Corsica, I wanted to share this unforgettable region with you.
The Balagne region of Corsica may be France's best-kept secret. This mountainous area in the north of this island is dotted with hilltop villages that snuggle against the backdrop of jagged peaks. In fact, detouring from the much-loved coastal resorts is a must for those who want to find the Corsica of centuries ago. Many of these villages date back more than 1,000 years and yet these are active communities where artisans and crafts people thrive.


Driving the Routes de Artisans along the wiggly roads that wind through this land of olives and vines, I met an array of personalities producing glassware, pottery, wine, olive oil, honey, almond biscuits, chestnut cakes, knives and aromatic oils. For example, Helene Cancela, a jeweler near the seaside town of Ile Rousse, etches bronze and sets semiprecious stones with healing properties in silver, creating organic works. Outside Calenzana, Rony Annick weaves olive branches, myrtle and bamboo into all manner of traditional baskets. Calvi’s knife maker, Patrick Martin, originally a sculptor, forges knives that are works of art. Don't be surprised when you enter his shop and see it decorated with animal skulls, since he delicately fashions the handles from antelope, goat and even boar horns or skulls. Carole Fanet, a potter in Algajola, produces contemporary works that are influenced by her travels in Asia.
But, probably the heart of this artisanal area is Pigna, the music town, as it's known. No wonder, considering this hamlet became the center to resurrect Corsican traditions, including paghjella singing, and playing the cetera, a lute-like instrument that people from all over Europe now order from Pigna. Every July during the Estivoce festival that virtually takes over this hamlet, visitors can experience five days of theatrical and musical productions.

I wandered the narrow cobbled lanes and met women making wooden music boxes that play traditional Corsican lullabies; in another shop, Mr. Quilichini produces earthenware works that are inspired by Genoan pottery, which divers found off Corsica’s coast.
Herve specializes in contemporary Asian-inspired, etchings as well as 18th century copper prints that he collects from antique shops. Among the most interesting items you can buy is one of Ugo Casalonga's ceteras made from walnut and cypress or Corsican flutes from goat horns.Among the most interesting items you can buy is one of Ugo Casalonga's ceteras made from walnut and cypress or Corsican flutes from goat horns. In Casa Savelli, Dominique Giantini sells locally made items, such as clementine marmalade, myrtle vinegar and chestnut flour cakes.


The hamlet has three restaurants, all serving local products. Casa Musicale is a stone dwelling that combines a thriving music center and a lovely inn that's decorated with an array of authentic items, including a handmade harpsichord. Lunch and dinner is served in the barrel-ceilinged stone dining rooms that are housed in the original olive oil mill. The terrace perched on the hillside is much sought after during mealtime to catch views of the Algajola Bay. U Palazzu is a 400-year-old villa that's been in the Franceschini family for generations. Their fine restaurant, serving dishes that include grilled sea bass with risotto and artichokes and prawns with pumpkin sauce, is also housed in a former olive oil mill, where two centuries-old presses are still present. Finally, A Casarella serves up organic cuisine that focuses in on tapas, such as anchovy filets, sheep's milk cheese and mashed chickpeas with olive oil. Their dining room, dating from the late 1700, was once an animal shelter. But most guests opt for the terrace seats to glimpse the fabulous sunsets.

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Enjoying a Stay at a Japanese Ryokan

When I travel to Japan, I always prefer staying in a traditional Japanese inn, referred to as a ryokan. I love the simplicity, the sparse furnishings, the open spaces and the meticulously designed outdoor gardens. As someone who loves walking around indoors in bare feet and prefers sleeping on a futon set on the floor, I didn't have too much trouble adapting to ryokan life. But, many travelers will want to know that etiquette issues abound.

Here are a few of the most noteworthy ones I came away with:

1. When you enter the ryokan, you trade your street shoes for slippers that are worn most everywhere inside, with some exceptions.

2. Before you enter any room that has a straw or tatami mat, make sure you only step with your bare feet or socks. You should remove your slippers at the door threshold.

3. Once in your room, you'll change into a yukata or light cotton robe. Though it might seem odd by Western standards, it's perfectly normal to walk around the ryokan in the yukata. What's key, however, is how you tie it: it's wrapped left over right. To the dismay of my guide, I repeatedly tied mine incorrectly, right over left, -- the way it's done only on corpses.

4. Special slippers -- like the bright red ones I found in many of the ryokans I visited -- are only worn in the bathroom (toilet). Unlike what I accidentally did, never wear these slippers anywhere else in the ryokan nor should your regular slippers in the bathroom.

5. Expect to sleep on a futon on the floor and snuggle into a comfy comforter or quilt. But don't be surprised that your pillow, rather than cushy down, will be hard because it's filled with buckwheat or another grain or husk.
6. The ofuro or traditional bath -- I often found the ryokan only offered a sex-separate public bath -- is a nice respite before dinner. Here's how the ritual works: before entering the bath, soap up first while seated on a mini-stool and pour water over your head with a large bucket or use the shower head. Then, after making sure you have rinsed off every bit of soup, you step into the hot water. (I prefer lukewarm water and found these temperatures scalding. So step in carefully.) 7. When dining at the ryokan, don't leave your chopsticks standing up in a rice bowl. This is something that's only done at a funeral. And always fill the glass of those you dine with (before they ask).

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