Another New Park for New York City

Domino Park is one of the triad of new New York City parks that opened this summer along the East River. What makes it different from the other two I recently wrote about is that it has a very industrial feel. No surprise, considering it references the 19th century Domino Sugar Factory -- once the largest in the world -- whose edifice stands across the street from the park’s expanse in this Williamsburg, Brooklyn neighborhood. Salvaged sugar syrup collection tanks that stand almost 40-feet tall, crane tracks (as well as gantries now painted a signature turquoise) and almost two dozen steel columns are all part of the park’s design, as is plenty of elements designs for relaxation or physical activity, including a beach volleyball court, waterfront-facing wooden lounge chairs, a playground that also plays homage to the sugar factory (complete with silos). It’s easy to spend the whole day here, sunning, jogging along the esplanade, picnicking or lunching at the Danny Meyer taco kiosk. (The kids will enjoy the nearby water feature.)

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Brooklyn's Collection of Wooden Houses

Wooden houses and present-day New York City don't sound like a natural fit. By 1900, you couldn't build wooden houses in Brooklyn that had just become part of Manhattan where wooden houses were outlawed because of their propensity to catch fire. No wonder, considering, with no electricity at that time, families were roaming around their houses with lighted candles.

So imagine my surprise when, on a walking tour with the Wooden House Project, I learned that 50% of the houses in Brooklyn are made of wood.  The Project's founder, Elizabeth Finkelstein and Chelcey Berryhill, one of the contributors to the Project that delights in everything about wooden houses, led our small group through the streets of Brooklyn's South Slope one recent sweltering day, pointing out these reminders of the past that are often concealed by none other than vinyl siding.

Many of us had the erroneous notion that these wooden dwellings were once old farm houses. In fact, they were Brooklyn's early row houses in this neighborhood where most everyone worked in the Ansonia Clock Factory, the major employer dating from 1879, and the stimulus for the neighborhood's development.

Webster Place – it's a row of 1867 houses with simple porches. This block is what most of the streets once looked like.

The gingerbread detailing, with spindles and portico columns are not original, but they are of that time.

Dating from 1863 , this house is located in the Historic District. From this house, the original owners would have views of the Ansonia, which was set on rocky land with immense embankments.

The mansard roof on this dormered house was popular in the 1860s. It was popular in the 1860s then fell out of favor only to return again in the 20th century.

Aside from these treasures, we also learned that a lovely yellow house on 11th Street between 7th and 8th Avenues was moved to this spot between 1886 and 1898. On 12th street between 6th and 7th Avenues, a carpenter owned the early cottage row house, circa late 1850s, that's snuggled between two brick brownstones. Since there were few architects at that time, houses like this one were built using pattern books illustrating what was  trendy. 

 

But for all the love we hold for wooden houses, they wouldn't still be around today, at least not in the good condition they are in, if it weren't for the aluminum or vinyl siding we find on many, like the row of six houses, all clad in different siding on 15th street between 6th and 7th Avenues. This is an inexpensive way to protect the wooden facade. And protection is what they need because once these houses are all gone, that's it. Because they're outlawed, you'll never find another wood house in New York City. Enjoy 'em while they last.

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A Historic and Tasty Walking Tour in Brooklyn

As a native New Yorker, I've taken a lot of NYC-based walking tours in the hopes of getting a different perspective about my hometown. But, by far, one of the best is the Brooklyn-centric tour company, Made in Brooklyn Tours, run by Dom Gervasi. I had taken his Williamsburg walking tour many months ago and found him to be enthusiastic, knowledgeable, organized and full of amazingly yummy tasting experiences that he introduced us to.

I'm hoping to eventually do all of his tours, but my most recent one was to the DUMBO neighborhood. I thought I knew this neighborhood but here are some of the fascinating factoids I learned from Dom:

Artists in residence named the area DUMBO (for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass) in the late 1970s, hoping it would deter developers from encroaching into this waterfront landscape. It became their legacy.

In the early 1900s in NYC, you couldn't start a pizza shop with a coal-burning oven unless the building already had one. Grimaldi's, where, in the evening, the lines stretch down the street, was in a former bank building that clearly came sans coal-burning oven. It got permission to build the oven only because it was a chain.

Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory - they've only got eight flavors. And their formulations are "American style", which means no eggs in the recipe. That's the old fashioned way of making ice cream at a time when there was no way to pasteurize egg yolks. (My favorite is the chocolate chocolate chunk.)

Finally NYC is making better use of its waterways in terms of ferry service between the boroughs. But it was Cornelius Dircksen who started the first ferry between Brooklyn and Manhattan in 1637. Unbelievably he charged the Native Americans double what he charged the Dutch.

It was Robert Fulton who ran the first commercial ferry service in 1814 when it was quite common for farmers and their cattle to make the river crossing every day.

The men behind the Brooklyn Bridge suffered tragic fates: as John Roebling was inspecting the bridge, a ferry crushed his foot  He died of what was called lockjaw at the time, but we know it as tetanus. His son, Washington, took over and, after working in the underwater caissons that became the bridge's foundation, developed what was known as Caisson's Disease, aka "the bends." He was paralyzed for the rest of his life.

But it's not all about DUMBO's past that stands out on this tour:

Recycle-A-Bicycle on Pearl Street was started as an outreach program by Transportation Alternatives as a way to teach kids how to recycle their bikes. Now 1,200 bikes are recycled every year. They train interns in Long Island City and teach kids through this internship programs. On Wednesdays, adults can help out in the shop and learn about recycling, too.

Beginning in the late 1800s, the Arbuckle family owned several buildings at the intersection of Jay and John Streets all involved with coffee roasting. They had a method of preserving the aroma of the bean by glazing it with sugar and eggs. One of the buildings now houses the Brooklyn Roasting Company that's all about being green: the coffee is organic, Rainforest Alliance, fair trade and direct trade. The beans are stored in steel canisters and the coffee is shipped by bicycle or bio-diesel-powered vans. Their cafe, that's adjacent to the roasting facility, is definitely worth a stop. Sit on the sidewalk in nice weather in one of the many folding chairs.

Mamselles Teas & Tarts is run by Jasmine who's an attorney by profession. Unlike a typical white-glove style tea shop, this one is casual, with teas coming from three purveyors, including renowned Harney & Sons. Choose one of the unique flavors such as blood orange, French super blue lavender, or evergreen mint. (The iced blood orange was refreshing on a muggy NYC afternoon.) And pair it with a savory Caribbean tart: pineapple with ginger and nutmeg; salmon and codfish; shredded chicken with spices; or cheddar with red pepper. They are all Guyanese style.

Dewey's Candy Shop stocks plenty of vintage-type and new items. The licorice selection is extensive as is the selection of chocolates with curious flavors that include edamame with salt,  classic hemp, and dark chocolate with sea salt.

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Made in Brooklyn Walking Tours

Why would a native New Yorker like myself sign up for a walking tour in her home city? Because there's always a new discovery to be made in one of the five boroughs. Recently, I did a walking tour of Williamsburg  with Dom Gervasi of  Made in Brooklyn Tours. And over the course of three-some hours, Dom introduced our small group to what he called the "maker" movement: innovative locals crafting beer, chocolates, other food items, wooden furniture, textiles and much more.

Pudge Knuckles is definitely a name to remember. (In case you're wondering, the name comes from a moniker used by the owner's dad when he was a boy.) This light filled coffee shop sits oh, so close to the East River. So no surprise that from my table where I sit beside a small wood burning stove, I can crane my neck and gaze at the Empire State Building. The owner, Ivan Greene, is an avid rock climber who fell in love with coffee roasting and this neighborhood. Vegans and carnivores alike will find plenty appealing on the food menu, including a grilled sweet potato sandwich with vegan cheese, and a low-fat cheddar and roast turkey sandwich. Don't miss the pumpkin or caramelized apple pop tarts.

At the Brooklyn Art Library - it's an art house co-op - I found a unique collection of sketch books lining the walls and stacked on tables - there's some 22,000 of these created by individuals around the world. Yes, it's risky putting your vision out there for all to see. The way it works with this Sketchbook Project: You buy one of the blank books with a given theme, and then go all out expressing your self, as the author above did.

You could spend an hour or more exploring the myriad offerings in this shop that also stocks some unique published works: Geometry of Pasta, The Map as Art and Fill in the Blank. Everything in the inventory is vintage, do it yourself and old school inspiration. Such a welcome change from run-of-the-mill chain bookstores.

Of the four Brooklyn-based manufacturers making chocolate bars from the beans, Mast Brothers Chocolates is the largest. Owners Michael and Rick Mast are all about dispelling the mystery of chocolate. A chalk board displays the processing of chocolate from seed (yes, cacao is a seed not a bean) and you can watch chocolate production, including the use of the winnower machine. But most importantly, there's always chocolates to taste.

Set beside a blue stone sidewalk, Nightwood is a furniture and textile shop run by Nadia and Rye. These self-taught owners use mostly wool and cotton in their tapestries and are involved with upcycling (in this case using salvaged wood,including cedar from a water tower, from New Jersey) for the furnishings.

I've never found bagels to be all that surprising. That is, until I walked into The Bagel Store, considered to be the best in Brooklyn. French toast bagel. Bacon/egg/cheese where each is impregnated into the dough itself. Sundried tomato. And, I'm saving the most curious for last: Twinkie bagel. They are each served hot and, by far, the two that are my new faves are the sundried tomato and bacon, egg and cheese. The flavors were subtle but tempting.

Olive oil is not as simple as you might think. In fact, step into appropriately named Olive and you'll see that choosing the right olive oil is as complex as selecting a fine wine. Here I found 12 extra virgin oils, from mild to robust. Some are just weeks old -- you can't get any fresher than this. The owner carries oils from Chile, Australia, California and the Mediterranean countries. But not all at the same time of the year because he's following the crush. You can taste any of the oils which are each completely labeled with the polyphenol content (this reflects its antioxidant status) and crush date.

The Gourmet Guild Williamsburg carries a vast array of artisanal food (and some non-food) products, with 60% of what's lining the shelves made in Brooklyn. Smoked seafood jerky, push-up cake pops, savory cookies, empanadas, as well as gift items such as handmade candles - and this is just a small sampling of what you'll find here. If you're looking for authentic food or gift items, I would definitely make the trip to Brooklyn to check this place out.

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