An Idyllic Walk In The Bronx: Old Croton Aqueduct

I guess you might say I'm obsessed with canals and similar  type waterways. Whether it's the Chesapeake & Ohio Canal that runs for 185 miles from Georgetown in DC to Cumberland, Maryland or the Kiel Canal in Germany, canals are perfect for the bikeable or walkable paths that run alongside these waterways. But, imagine my surprise when, as a native New Yorker, I just found out that there's a 40-some-mile-long aqueduct that wanders from Central Park to Westchester. But I probably would have still been unaware were it not for Open House New York. 
 

Open House New York is an annual event held one weekend in September with private residences, galleries and other (often architecturally-interesting) buildings opening their doors for culturally-focused activities. Because of my waterway fascination and tree hugging nature, I signed up for a walk along the Old Croton Aqueduct with guides from the Friends of the Old  Croton Aqueduct that's dedicated to preserving the Aqueduct.

Taking the #4 Lexington line subway to near the end of the line, I meet the group of 15 across from Lehman College where I pondered where this aqueduct was going to appear. The Bronx hardly sounded like it would be the source of an idyllic jaunt. Our two guides, Steve and Charlotte, warn us that, because we would be coursing south through the Bronx, if we were expecting sylvan glades we would be sorely disappointed. (The treks that head north through Westchester follow the scenic Hudson River Valley.) Interestingly, many trailheads are easily accessed by taking Metro North to, for example, Hastings-on-the-Hudson or Dobbs Ferry stations.

But what this Bronx section lacks in verdancy it's abundant in history, both social and literary. Coincidentally on this the anniversary of Edgar Allan Poe's birthday, we will be walking in his footsteps. 

We learn that 10% of New York City's water comes from the Croton Watershed, which was the source of the city's first clean water supply back in 1842 when it first opened. We take clean water for granted but, before that time, New Yorkers got their water from wells which became contaminated and led to plenty of disease outbreaks, including typhoid. The aqueduct was able to deliver 50,000 gallons of water a day.

The entire aqueduct, however, is invisible to us, as it runs just five to six feet below the sidewalk along Goulden Avenue. It's said that 99 million bricks were used in the construction of the tunnel that carried water. (It's referred to as the Old Croton Aqueduct because the new one went onine in 1910 and the original ceased operation in 1955.) Curious factoids abound where this aqueduct is concerned, including that it was built by a self-taught engineer. The aqueduct, a marvel of construction, also owes its existence to the Romans who also build these structures to be gravity fed. 

 Passing drab apartments, whitewashed churches and ramshackle garages, we spot  the turret of the Kings Bridge Armory that dates back to 1913. (It was the largest indoor drill hall in the world.) Curiously, what some believe resembles a French chateau has been abandoned for decades. A mere quarter of a mile on Kingsbridge Road is where Poe settled, wrote some of his most loved works, including the Cask of Amandillado, and walked the same path we're following south to the High Bridge.

  

The most surprisingly lush section of the route is along Aqueduct Avenue where embankments (reflecting the topography of the aqueduct) fall away to either side of our path that's now dotted with shade trees. The Poe Cottage is a short detour away as is the little-visited St. James Church where elaborate Tiffany stained glass windows make it well worth the visit.

Near chaotic Fordham Road, we curve around to an adjacent pedestrian path, a wall of native field stone lining the way. Prominent tree roots penetrate the stone wall and even dig down to the aqueduct's roof, puncturing it and, saysCharlotte , will eventually destroy it. 

Steve stops to show us a photo of Phineas Gage, one of the builders of the aqueduct, who survived after being impaled through the skull with an iron rod – the tragic result of digging the canal by hand, using black gunpowder instead of dynamite. (A handful of sand was supposed to prevent a spark after using the iron tapping rod.)

We wander into Aqueduct Lands Playground that's designed – as is the nearby Morgan Playground –  to reflect the aqueduct itself, including the towns along the way, their names – Dobbs Ferry, Tarrytown, Ossining, Hastings, etched on brick that rims a water channel. As we continue heading south, we pass the Gould Memorial Library, renowned for the Hall of Fame for Great Americans. (The scenic views of the Harlem River from this vantage point also can't be beat.)

As we cross Tremont Avenue and continue on University Avenue, the walk dramatically loses its appeal with nothing but crowded sidewalks and drab storefronts. But, we press on to the highlight of the journey, the High Bridge that carried water across the Harlem River. From there, water was first pumped up to the elegant circa 19th century stone tower that dominates the skyline and then gravity took over to supply Manhattan. Decades ago, people would stroll this the oldest bridge in New York City. We gather in petite High Bridge Park and peak through a crack in the imposing chained door to see that the bridge surface is now overgrown with weeds. It's been long closed but the hope is that it will be restored and reopened as a cycling and pedestrian way between the Bronx and Manhattan. This is definitely a path I'd like to tackle.

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My Travel Tips E-Book

I think most of us would agree that surprises are great, just not unpleasant ones. And that's especially the case when traveling. When I'm on the road, whether it's to a domestic destination or a far-flung land, I would rather avoid getting ill, becoming stranded in an airport, having my hotel broken into, losing my laptop and so forth. You get the idea.

That's why I decided to write a savvy travel tips e-book where the title says it all: The Travel Authority: Essential Tips for Hassle-Free Travel. I've divided the book up into seven useful sections based on major travel topics: savvy packing, airports and planes, other transportation (cars, trains and boats), health and safety, accommodations, recommended gear and products, and insurance and money issues. Each chapter has a quirky image, like the one on the cover, that introduces that section. (I'm all about quirky, after all.)

The idea is that even someone who has logged thousands of frequent flyer miles will find something (or more than one thing) they didn't know that can help them save money, time and their sanity. The tips -- there are more than 200 of them -- come from my personal travel experiences, my background in the health and medical field, as well as my use of various products and gadgets that I adore.

In The Travel Authority, you'll find that I provide links to apps that can save the day when your plane is delayed, for example, as well as companies, such as Adventure Cycling, that can take the hassle out of traveling with your bicycle, and products, like the SteriPen, that I take with me on many a trip to prevent traveler's diarrhea from contaminated water. (It's super small, pen-sized.) You'll find recommendations on how to avoid pickpockets -- with a very cool pair of pants --  as well as an item of clothing -- the Versalette -- that transforms into twenty different garments.

I wrote this book for every kind of traveler, no matter your budget or style. If you're a business traveler or you're on a budget, if you prefer luxury travel or you're more comfortable on the Appalachian Trail, you'll find tips for you. That's because I travel in all manner of different ways, staying at hostels and five-star hotels; I'm often on business but I also go on long-distance hiking, bicycling and Nordic skiing trips.

The Travel Authority is being sold for the Kindle, Nook and the iPad as well as a downloadable PDF from my blog here. (You'll find it on the upper right with the cover prominently displayed.) The e-book is just $2.99. And to make your life even more travel savvy, certain companies mentioned in this book are offering discounts to anyone who buys the book. Most are still getting on board at this time, but you can email me for more information on this once you've purchased the book. (I can provide you with discount codes.)

I hope you enjoy reading it and I hope it makes your next journey worry-free.

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Teaching English In Spain

What could I possibly be doing in a stone-made hamlet in Spain where there's no shopping, no cars, no air conditioning and little in the way of WiFi? Almost every summer I travel to the Soria province to teach conversational English to Spanish business men and women and sometimes college students. The setting is idyllic, the distractions are few and each day offers so many possibilities in terms of making a difference in the lives of others.

I've written about this program in the hamlet of Valdelavilla before. It's definitely not for everyone. You have to enjoy almost non-stop conversation from breakfast to sometimes way into the night as conversations move from the dinner table to the one laid-back bar. There's little down time. Some volunteers find it difficult to come up with entertaining topics that keep everyone engaged. Others get burned out with the constant interactions. Since I have a background as a teacher and I thrive on meeting new people and engaging them in all manner of conversations, whether political, social or cultural, I'm in my element in this hamlet.


But, recently I've come upon a new conversation starter: my quirky line of JCreatures™ t-shirts. Each t-shirt has a cartoon image that I designed, which reflects a different emotion or state of being, like emoticons, of sorts. It's hard to look at one and not wonder what it means.


Recently, I guest blogged for the PhotoFly Travel Club on teaching English in Valdelavilla and how I use my JCreatures™  t-shirts (such as those below) to promote conversation while also boosting camaraderie and providing a few laughs.

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Gear Review: A Transformative Garment - The Versalette

What if I told you (women) that you could pack one piece of fabric (tube-shaped) that could replace 20 items in your luggage?  Oh, and what if I sweetened up the deal by saying that everything about it would be  sustainable? Pretty fantastical, huh? But that's what the Versalette does. Because of an ingenious design that depends on buttons and draw strings, my little charcoal toned fabric acts as a scarf (actually two types of scarves), hood, short skirt, long skirt, strapless dress, halter dress, tunic (several types), a poncho (more here, too), a shawl and even a little purse.

Check out the LookBook and then review this video which shows how it can easily convert from one garment to the next. You can see how others are wearing the Versalette on their tumblr page.

And this is how I wore the Versalette:

Anyone who's met me knows I've very skinny. But, the Versalette can flatter any woman, no matter her shape. In fact, when my Versalette arrived in the mail in a little biodegradable pouch, it came with visual instructions for different body shapes. (I'm considered the Pencil and, as you can see above, I wore it as a short skirt, halter dress with the drawstrings pulled, and a strapless dress with black leggings.) At first, I was worried that my body might float in this tube-shaped garment. But, if you accent it with a flattering belt, scarf, or jacket, even if you are a fellow Pencil, you'll find looks that work well for you. In addition, it's key to really cinch the drawstrings properly (as per the directions) and then tuck in the bow.  Because there are wooden buttons, you have to follow the directions as to when you need to open the button holes and use the arm openings, and when to keep them unbuttoned. The garment also comes with two open pockets, which is handy for keeping a notebook and pen when you're traveling.

It might take some people a bit of time to read and re-read the instructions, follow along with the video and try out the different looks before you're able to make quick transformations and before you feel comfortable with those looks that work best for your body shape.

As far as the sustainability goes, I'm so happy that the creators, Shannon Whitehead and Kristin Glenn, decided that everything should be Made in the U.S.A. The fabric is made in North Carolina of recycled plastic bottles and recycled cotton scraps; the buttons are produced in Brooklyn, the drawstrings are dyed in Raleigh, North Carolina, and even the labels are embroidered in Austin, Texas.

Whenever I'm at the airport and I see people weighed down by their luggage, it makes me sad. There just is no need to carry so many articles of clothing. In fact, I'd bet that you didn't really wear all those clothes you brought on your last trip. Now, with the Versalette, you have no reason to pack several shirts, several skirts, several scarves. Just pack one (or two) of these. (They come in different colors, including sage, cherry and indigo, depending on what's in stock. (It costs $80.)

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Gear Review: Bag Balm - The Do-It-All Skin Salve

As moisturizers (or ointments with moisturizing properties) go, this one has a name that's hardly appealing. Bag Balm. No, definitely not a product that I'd want to race out and buy, let alone apply on my lips or face. Especially once I found out that it was originally developed for use on dairy cows' udders. (Farmers didn't want 'em getting chapped so they developed this moisturizing formula in the late 1800s.) 

I'd heard about Bag Balm for years but I didn't know anyone who used it. And with that name, well, you get the idea. So when the company sent me the product to try out in its signature the little green tin, I set aside my prejudice and handed it to my friend to try out first. After all, he's always been complaining about foot calluses and dry hands from working in the kitchen and the garden. As a guy, he abhors moisturizers, especially girlie ones. Well, Bag Balm hardly seemed girlie, especially when I told him farmers used it on their cows. (He actually found that to be a vote of confidence.)

After a couple of weeks, I received an email while I was traveling in Hungary. He loved Bag Balm. His feet never felt softer. Same goes for his hands. Though he thought it would be greasy, it absorbed well into his skin. And he liked the scent too: He found it manly. (Leave it to those farmers.)

As soon as I returned, I decided to give Bag Balm a try. My lips were sunburned -- Budapest was hotter and sunnier than I expected for September. My cuticles were a mess from all the camping and cycling I did this past summer. And then there's my on-going battle with seborrheic dermatitis on my face. After just a couple of days using the product, my lips were no longer red and chapped, my cuticles felt supple, and Bag Balm even provided some much needed relief for several patches of itchy skin on my face.

The only problem is that my friend is monopolizing the Bag Balm. He uses it on his arms and legs after a shower, and regularly applies it on his hands and feet. He also recommended it to a friend who complained that his bull terrier suffers from irritated paws.

As a traveler who never checks luggage, I'm attracted to products that serve more than one or two functions. Bag Balm fits the bill. I'll be bringing it on my next long-distance bicycle trip because not only will it work as a lip balm and hand moisturizer, but I heard that it can stave off the thigh chafing and saddle sores that I've experienced on some trips. It's also said to be good for minor cuts and scrapes since it has some antiseptic properties. 

I do like the idea that the Vermont-based company hasn't changed its formula since 1899, unlike some companies that change their products, even those that are much loved, with the seasons, it seems. Leave it to those farmers.

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Gear Review: Chinese for Travelers

The idea that you can buy a product that will act like your 24-hour-a-day interpreter sounds perfect for those who are foreign language challenged, like myself. This is what's claimed on the cover of Chinese Talking Travel Guidebook - China Edition that Parrot Learning  sent me to review.  This is all about what they coined “Point and Listen” technology, where you use a special “audio pen” to first scan the desired Chinese phrase (in either the Chinese characters or pinyin) and then the “pen” speaks the word or phrase for you. Perfect, right? Not necessarily, as you'll see. 

  The large box that arrived in the mail was bulky, packed with a three volume set of slim books organized by topics, a scanner in the shape of an ultra thick but light pen, a USB cable, earphones and a couple of neck/wrist straps. The scanner pen takes two AAA batteries (adding to the weight) and is economically constructed with just three narrow buttons: one for power on but it also toggles between the volume function, and the language switching  (English/Mandarin) and repeat function. The second button also does double duty to boost the volume or repeat the last word/phrase. And the last button both reduces the volume and allows you to switch between English and Mandarin.

There's really no learning curve with this, once you figure out the button issues (more on that below). All you have to do is first point the scanner pen on the bull's eye logo on the cover of the desired volume. (You have to remember to do this every time you switch among the four book volumes.) Then you're all set. Simply point the pen on any of the Chinese words or phrases and you'll hear the correct pronunciation in Mandarin (or you can switch to English). So, if I was feeling ill when I’m in Beijing, I'd pick up Volume 1, turn to the section on Travel Essentials and point the scanner to the phrase: wo xu yao yi sheng (you’ll note that I’ve left off all the diacritical marks) or “I need a doctor”. But the phrase was said so quickly, I couldn't determine how to say it myself. (Though I was able to slow down the speed dramatically, I still found it difficult if not impossible to mimic the spoken phrase. (I tested out my language skills in my neighborhood in Queens with native Mandarin speakers and the people I approached in the shops had no idea what I was attempting to say.) Instead, I resorted to having the pen do the talking, which it does very well.  

My opinion on using the audio pen and books to learn the language? I'd rather use Rosetta Stone. Sure, the pen is small but if I'm studying at home before heading off to a far-flung land, I don't care about small. I need something that has the kind of flexibility to deal with the myriad ways different people learn languages. I don't have a good ear and can't hear what vowels or consonants, let alone the different tones used to speak Mandarin correctly.

Yes, this system has many problems:

When someone responded to my inquiry, I was clueless as to what they were uttering. Of course, there are sections in the volumes labeled “Listening” where, if you point the scanner pen, you'll hopefully hear a phrase that matches what the person just said, such as dui bu qi, wo bu zhi dao or “Sorry I don't know”; or wo bang bu liao ni or “I can't help you”. Again, testing this out in my local shops didn’t banish my confusion when I tried to order lunch. The waitress said something that I couldn’t match with anything in the book’s restaurant section. Plus, I don’t see how using this audio pen and the accompanying books will assist you in having a real conversation, even a rudimentary one.

The only good use I see for this is to have the pen do the talking for you. But with four volumes to thumb through, you'd have to be fairly well organized before you approach someone or enter a store or hotel to be ready with the appropriate words/phrases. I'd probably have to use a set of color-coded Post-It notes to single out phrases such as “Can you fix the hot water in the bathroom” if I'm in my hotel, or “What is the price for a round-trip ticket” if I'm in the train station, and so forth. Once you've made your initial inquiry, you're on your own to carry on a dialogue after that.

And, as to these switches that have several functions, maybe Parrot Learning thought this was being economical, but what it's done is confuse things. I ended up pushing a button and thinking it will speak in Mandarin but all it does is change the volume. Then I wanted to boost the volume and, instead, I ended up repeating the last phrase.

Additionally, you have to carry not just the pen but all the books. So, those you don't check luggage like myself may not be happy about this added load. You’ll have to decide for yourself whether carrying around the pen and books for the sole purpose of having it speak for you is worth the $120 price.

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Art Glass Discoveries in the Czech Republic

Sure, I knew that the Czech Republic had a long and illustrious tradition in art glass. But as I wandered into museums, boutiques, factories and studios, I certainly didn't expect to find a playfulness to the works on display.

 In fact, while inspecting the myriad pieces of stemware, goblets and bowls, I found something so curious that I burst out loud giggling in the middle of this staid museum. I was face to face with contemporary glass Eve that was anatomically correct.

My article for the Huffington Post is accompanied by a slide show of my images of everything from craftsmen handcrafting bowls in a hot shop to table centerpieces that seem mythological.

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Walking Spain's Less-Visited Camino de Santiago Route

Every day presented an idyllic landscape: an abundance of orchards, ruins of pre-Romanesque churches, golden sand beaches and always a surprise or two, including a sign that tempted me with berry picking and, what turned out to be, heaps of handmade ice cream packed with the farm's berries.

This is what I experienced by walking part of a less visited Camino de Santiago in the Asturias region of Northern Spain. This area certainly has its moody side, thanks to the mist and showers that blanket the landscape, weather that assures the lushness of the foliage. You can follow my journey in my article appearing online at TravelSquire.

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New York City's Pod Hotel

The name Pod Hotel says it all. Or does it? My expectation when checking into the brand new Pod 39 Hotel in the upmarket Murray Hill neighborhood in Manhattan is that my night would be similar to falling asleep -- or nervously trying to -- while having a CAT scan.  Instead I found a minimalist room with brightly hued accents that, though wee, was sun filled. thanks to three windows, including one in the bathroom with its translucent walls and rain shower. (The amenities are the organic Red Flower line which come in colorful cardboard containers.)

The flat screen TV, complementary WiFi as well as wireless media center and iPod docking station all assure that you're connected and distracted from the small room dimensions. (My suggestion is to book a queen room on a high floor.)

The only oddity of the room. which comes with plenty of fluffy towels, is the lack of cups. (You have to call the front desk for those.)

On the ground floor, guests lounge in sleek chairs. Others check one of several iPads that are mounted on the wall and call up Google maps or search for restaurant reviews on Yelp. The concierge desk is piled with the latest issue of Time Out New York to assure that you'll have access to the latest information on pop-up shops, gallery openings, literary readings and street fairs.

The hotel is still a work in progress: a restaurant is set to open as well as a spacious lounge that'll be equipped with a ping pong and pool table.

But the highlight of this property,which is a landmarked building, is the original Neoclassical rooftop that's been repurposed into a scenic terrace with archways, antique-tiled tables, a copper-topped terra cotta-faced bar as well as tall terra cotta columns and benches. From this airy perch, you can sit and take in the panoramic views of the city, including the Empire State Building, while sipping one of their many exotic and well-crafted cocktails. (The bar is open to the public and, since my stay here a few weeks ago, I've stopped by for drinks several times.) Even the virgin drinks were memorable: I lingered over a refreshing cocktail concocted of watermelon juice, ginger syrup and citrus.

For such a spare room, however, the price isn't cheap. My room went for $155. But, how much time do you spend in the room anyway? And, considering hotels in New York City can run in the hundreds, especially given this prime locale, the Pod 39 is worth it. You'll be in a quiet, tony  East Side neighborhood that accessible to the Lexington line subway. You'll feel like you're in the land of hipness. And, then, there's always that rooftop retreat to look forward to at the end of the day.

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