Active Wales

To truly experience a country, I need to get intimate with the land. Taking in the aroma of blossoms and pine needles. Listening to the soft crunch of leaves underfoot, and the wild roar of the ocean. Touching craggy boulders strewn along my path or rough bark in dense forests. Tasting the salt spray from a turbulent surf on my lips. Here's are some activities that will bring you up close with the varied landscapes found in Wales.

Surfing
        Along the Gower Peninsula with its soaring cliffs and its sweeping sandy bays, you'll find fine quality waves, especially and consistently along the beaches of Llangennith. Beginners will be comfortable here as well as skillful surfers. But, either way, you can rent all your equipment from PJ's Surf Shop.

Whitewater Rafting and Kayaking
      Thrill seekers will find plenty to get their adrenalin levels skyrocketing in the north of the country at the National WhiteWater Centre along the River Tryweryn, which is a dam-release waterway. Here you'll be able to negotiate Class III rapids whether via kayak, canoe or inflatable raft. Or sit it out and watch one of several competitions regularly held here.

Mountain Biking
     The network of trails networking the conifer-laden forests of Coed-y-Brenin Forest Park make for a premium mountain biking venue. They're graded similar to ski trails, with the green ideal for novices and the black reserved for those who are fit and fearless. (A trail named the Beast of Brenin is self explanatory.) Bike rental is available at Beics Brenin.


Road Cycling
       Wales is plenty bicycle friendly with many traffic-free trails (whether rails-to-trails or forest paths) linked together as part of the National Cycle Network. On one of these, the Lon Geltaidd Celtic Trail East, you'll be able to pedal almost 200 miles from Fishguard, a town on a scenic headland that's noted for its music festivals, to the Severn Bridge in the south of Wales. And the vast majority of the time, you'll be on paths that are car free.


Walking and Hiking
        The Pembrokeshire Coast Path, in the eponymous national park, sticks mostly to the clifftops along its sea-hugging route for most of its 185-some-mile length. Whether spotting seabirds or sunbathing seals, you'll be traversing a path that you can stroll for an afternoon or a couple of weeks. If you're in Fishguard, you'll be able to access the path that runs through old ports; or the precipitous section of the path where seabirds may be your only companions above St. Davids Head.

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Portugal's Other Algarve-Surfing & Yoga

Despite visiting Portugal once or twice a year for quite some time, I've always avoided the Algarve because, as you know, I'm interested in what I call "hidden treasures." And things just didn't seem so hidden there. But having visited the Southwest Algarve, I discovered what is referred to as the "other Algarve."

The base for my visit was the Monte Velho Nature Resort, a true hideaway with plenty of comfort and no attitude. In fact, the vibe here is so mellow and welcoming, that I wished I had at least a week to more fully enjoy the property. If any place would turn me from a type A New Yorker to a tranquil type B, this would be it.
The owner, Henrique Balsemao, is a former publisher and TV producer who sets the tone for the low-key vibe here. He's a committed surfer and yoga aficionado who's in love with barnacles -- catching them and eating them. You can't get more interesting than this. (If you've never eaten barnacles, by the way, you'll find these odd looking creatures to be both succulent and sweet.)

Both the public rooms and guest suites are decorated with artifacts and furnishings from around the world: bold art from Brazil, rugs and couches from Guatemala and Morocco, creative sculpture and paintings (all those in the lounge are for sale) from local artists, even a sculpture of a Hindu god in the dining room. It's an eclectic mix that works.

During my stay I enjoyed one of the best sports massages from a German physical therapist who studied Ayurvedic massage in India. (He used some "secret" oils and Indian herbs on my overuse injuries.)

The next day began early with a relaxing yoga session in a gazebo facing the rising sun high on a hilltop above the sea. Then, it was a leisurely breakfast while sitting under a pergola draped with colorful bougainvillea and watching the horses graze. (Henrique also has several donkeys that children can ride.)
The outdoor hammocks and rattan deck chairs from the Philippines were certainly seductive. But, since I'm all about being active, instead I did a five-mile hike along the coast that also wandered through a shady pine forest, all not far from Carrapateira. During my trek, I walked past Henrique's favorite beach, Bordeira) where he surfs. Interestingly, he finds it better than being in Bali where it's hard to be alone on the sand or in the surf.
If you want to try out the surf board, Henrique will set you up with lessons at the surf school. Or you can mountain bike on off-road trails. They've also got a one-week yoga retreat and on Saturdays in the summer you'll be able to enjoy a Moroccan buffet in the evening or even belly dancing.

This is the Algarve I never knew.

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