New York City's Pod Hotel

The name Pod Hotel says it all. Or does it? My expectation when checking into the brand new Pod 39 Hotel in the upmarket Murray Hill neighborhood in Manhattan is that my night would be similar to falling asleep -- or nervously trying to -- while having a CAT scan.  Instead I found a minimalist room with brightly hued accents that, though wee, was sun filled. thanks to three windows, including one in the bathroom with its translucent walls and rain shower. (The amenities are the organic Red Flower line which come in colorful cardboard containers.)

The flat screen TV, complementary WiFi as well as wireless media center and iPod docking station all assure that you're connected and distracted from the small room dimensions. (My suggestion is to book a queen room on a high floor.)

The only oddity of the room. which comes with plenty of fluffy towels, is the lack of cups. (You have to call the front desk for those.)

On the ground floor, guests lounge in sleek chairs. Others check one of several iPads that are mounted on the wall and call up Google maps or search for restaurant reviews on Yelp. The concierge desk is piled with the latest issue of Time Out New York to assure that you'll have access to the latest information on pop-up shops, gallery openings, literary readings and street fairs.

The hotel is still a work in progress: a restaurant is set to open as well as a spacious lounge that'll be equipped with a ping pong and pool table.

But the highlight of this property,which is a landmarked building, is the original Neoclassical rooftop that's been repurposed into a scenic terrace with archways, antique-tiled tables, a copper-topped terra cotta-faced bar as well as tall terra cotta columns and benches. From this airy perch, you can sit and take in the panoramic views of the city, including the Empire State Building, while sipping one of their many exotic and well-crafted cocktails. (The bar is open to the public and, since my stay here a few weeks ago, I've stopped by for drinks several times.) Even the virgin drinks were memorable: I lingered over a refreshing cocktail concocted of watermelon juice, ginger syrup and citrus.

For such a spare room, however, the price isn't cheap. My room went for $155. But, how much time do you spend in the room anyway? And, considering hotels in New York City can run in the hundreds, especially given this prime locale, the Pod 39 is worth it. You'll be in a quiet, tony  East Side neighborhood that accessible to the Lexington line subway. You'll feel like you're in the land of hipness. And, then, there's always that rooftop retreat to look forward to at the end of the day.

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Radio Show: Why I Love Sardinia + More

When I travel slowly, whether its peddling on old farm roads in northern Spain or walking on cliff top paths mostly used by fishermen in Portugal's Alentejo region, I have the time to sense minute changes in the landscape.  The different species of wildflowers or nesting birds. The changes in geologic formations. The shifting sands along the dunes where the sands mingle with wild roses or lavender. I truly believe that this mode of travel is the way to connect with the land and its people.

I bring this up because Anthony Capozzoli recently interviewed me for his show: How To Tour Italy.  We discussed how I chose to bicycle the entire West Coast of Sardinia, an more unexpected way to traverse this country where many vacations seek the overdeveloped East Coast.

Listen to the spot and you'll also find out:

1. how I went from scientist to travel writer
2. my favorite dish in Sardinia
3. how I manage to never check luggage
4. my top security tip when staying at a hotel
5. how to find hidden treasures in your own backyard

Listen to internet radio with How to Tour Italy on Blog Talk Radio

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A Super Smart Cruise To The Baltics

I'm very much about what I call the "Who Knew" factor. Whether I'm strolling the streets in my hometown of New York City or bicycling in Denmark, I'm always on the lookout for surprises so that I might exclaim, "Who knew?" And this sensibility carries through to cruise trips as well, where I want to land in smaller ports, engage with a staff that provides a lot of interesting and, hopefully, surprising historical context, and have the opportunity to participate in three of my favorite activities: walking through parks and gardens, as well as hiking and bicycling. Zegrahm Expeditions is an adventure travel company with cruises that fit the bill for me. They are very much all about the "Who Knew" factor.

 

Check out my article that appears in the Huffington Post about my cruise through the Baltics with Zegrahm. I traveled with such a smart staff that I'm sure my IQ got a boost.

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Dominica, Where Sea Turtles Nest

Stay at the Rosalie Bay Resort in Dominica and, depending on the season, you might come away with photos that are beyond the usual postcard-perfect pics that we all take when we vacation at a Caribbean locale. This eco resort is at the center stage of the life cycle of several species of endangered sea turtles. Green, hawksbill and leatherback turtles each creep across the black sands to dig a wide pit and then a deep chamber to deposit dozens of eggs. Visitors can request a wake-up call -- no matter the hour of the night -- to experience this memorable event.

I recently wrote about my leatherback nesting experience for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel. It probably was the only time I was delighted to receive a phone call in the middle of the night.

All three photos below are by http://www.marinecreaturesstockphoto.com

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A Lithuanian SeaScape

Imagine a ribbon of land that's a mere 1,300 feet wide at its narrowest. A land that stretches some 60 miles (one half in Lithuania and the other half in Russia). with a sandy shore where tall dunes are topped with sea grass, roses and sea sicily, while the interior is thick with pine forests. No hotels cluster along the beachfront where development is banned. Welcome to the Curonian Spit that's cradled between an eponymous lagoon and the Baltic Sea. This wild landscape -- it's a national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site -- makes for an idyllic venue for bicycling, which is why I stepped ashore with bike in tow.

A ferry regularly runs back and forth between Klaipeda, Lithuania's port city, and Smiltyne, one of the handful of settlements on the Lithuanian side. From there, a network of bike paths thread along the shore and the interior where bird sounds from blackbirds, chat finches and other species are abundant. In fact, bird whistles, chirps and tweets are about the only sounds ringing through the forests. Beyond the towering sycamore, willow, birch and aleppo pine trees, a white tent comes into view; it's a snack bar for the nearby beach. From here, I climb the steps that course over the dunes and down to the wide stretch of white sand. I'm alone because it's only 11 am. This beach bears the sign Bendras, which means it's a general (non-nudist) beach. But the spit has nudist beaches as well that are signed Vyru (male), Moteru (female), or nudism for everyone (Nudista).

It's quite common for Lithuanians who crave nature to cycle the Curonian Spit after work or to bring a blanket and picnic and settle on one of the beaches even in the fall. But it also makes for a relaxing weekend -- there are a number of accommodations available, including Hotel Viesbutis, which is sited very close to the ferry.

Imagine sands sweeping across the villages on this strip of land to the point that they bury the houses. That's what happened in the 18th century -- the villagers were, obviously, forced to relocate. And this is why dense conifer forests now dominate this landscape. (The locals planted them to make up for the rampant deforestation and to reduce the land erosion.)

Sure, cars do roll down the roads, but I see few of them as I peddle past myriad side trails leading, of course, to more tempting sands. I stop at another beach where I spy three local men along the shore with large nets. If you think they're fishing you'd be wrong. They're sifting for chunks of amber, the fossilized resin of conifers and a valuable commodity that this area has long been known for. As I stroll the beachfront, I stop and check out the sand, finding a handful of amber grains. (I'm told that a violent storm the night before is the reason why the amber is especially plentiful.)

But the ferry waits so it's back on the bicycle, passing the Sea Museum and Dolphinarium, several old fishing boats from the mid-1900s as well as a collection of traditional 19th century farm structures. Once on board, I gaze at the receeding shore and imagine what my next trip will reveal. I plan to spend the weekend, traversing the bike paths from village to village, visiting the museums, and maybe collecting some larger chunks of amber.

 

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Luxembourg: 15 Myths

What do you know about Luxembourg? If you're like most of the people I recently spoke with, you probably haven't ever visited this petite country (it's barely the size of Rhode Island) that's bordered by France, Germany and Belgium. And, also like most everyone I polled recently, not only have you not thought about visiting Luxembourg, but you probably haven't given this country a second thought. And, yet, everyone I asked about Luxembourg City's night life, culinary scene, topography and more had an opinion, that just wasn't based on facts. Many thought that this center of finance was plenty boring. (It's not.) That it's a wide expanse of flat land. (Hardly.) And that the cuisine is so dominated by rich, meat-laden meals that it's a vegetarian's nightmare. (Wrong, again.)

Check out my article on 15 Myths About Luxembourg that just appeared in the Huffington Post. It'll give you a whole new perspective on this vibrant country. So much so, that you might want to just jump on the next plane bound for Luxembourg City. Just remember, even three days -- the number of days I spent in the capital -- isn't long enough.

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A Vibrant Restaurant (and Restaurant Owner) In Luxembourg

Even if you're not a committed vegetarian, you'll be seduced by the riot of color on the walls, the ceiling and on your plate at Mesa Verde in Luxembourg City. (The menu includes salmon teriyaki, curried tofu, and a mixed salad with tempura prawns) Almost every surface of the interior is adorned with colorful murals, including one displaying myriad fanciful sea creatures. Many hued butterflies flit across the ceiling and paper lanterns in all shapes and sizes glow from their lofty perches. One resembles a hot air balloon, another a pumpkin. In the back of the restaurant, a mosaic sculpture with a likeness to tree roots stands near a lantern shaped like an insect pupa with wings.

Quite a curious décor, but no more curious than the owner's resume. Lucien Elsen is a world traveler, trained chef, party planner and professional clown. And I was lucky to spend an hour with him one morning at his favorite cafe in Luxembourg City where we sipped lattes and nibbled on warm croissants.

It seems that you're a major multitasker. You have a lot going on. How do you get inspired?

I was born on a beautiful farm and I would go out into the forest to discover things. Now, every day I go into the forest. It's like brushing my teeth. I camp, I get ideas, and I ground myself.

How did you become interested in cooking?

Cooking was my first passion.  I wanted to be a macrobiotic chef. So I traveled the world. I'd hitchhike around and worked for room and board. I was a dishwasher for a year in Japan but you learn by watching.

Your staff has been with you for awhile. Why are they so dedicated?

At Mesa Verde, I was originally the cook and I trained everyone there. The people who work there feel it's our restaurant. I met the manager in India. And when I go back there, I see his family's house, which is there because of my restaurant. It's all connected.

I'm told that you organize some amazing parties, including street parties. How did that come about?

I had lived in San Francisco where I did food styling. But I couldn't continue to do that job. It was so fake. They threw away so much food. (I would give it to the homeless.) But, when I returned to Luxembourg City, I found it a bit boring. I had a club because I wanted to bring people together. (It was one of the best clubs in town.) I also like street life – open air events – because I like when energy comes together. So I also organized an outdoor party, and 100 people showed up. The police said I couldn't do that. But I held it again the following year and this time 1,500 people showed up. And the mayor liked it. Each year it grew. It was a way for me to do something for everyone. Four times a year I hold a big party in Mesa Verde, including on New Years and National Day. Every Saturday next to Mesa Verde I have outdoor music. It's free. It becomes a meeting place with good music. I'm a connector.

You certainly have a diverse background. But how does being a clown figure into this whole picture?

I went to Berlin to learn script writing but someone told me about a clown school in Ibiza. That's where I also studied to be a healer. A clown is about truth. People are afraid of clowns because the clown goes to the truth and people don't want to hear that. My current play is about an apocalypse. At the end of it, kids are laughing, the women are crying, and the men say what the f*** just happened. Cooking is something you do with your heart and you transmit those feelings to people. A cook touches them with emotions. But so does a clown, and that's the connection.

Mesa Verde radiates an appealing sense of vibrancy. How do you achieve that?

At Mesa Verde, I bring my energy to the restaurant, which is a micro-cosmos.  Aside from making love, cooking is the most intimate experience you can have with a person. I can look at a sandwich somewhere and I see that there's no love in that sandwich. I believe you should treat a salad like a flower you would offer a loved one. You care for it. Every leaf has a different texture. It's like painting. You're making a picture.

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My Love Affair With Reykjavik

Sure, Iceland is plenty exotic but I don't think most of my friends quite understand why I have long fallen in love with its petite capital city, Reykjavik. Maybe it's because in this land of fire and ice I can hang out at the beach in July and plop into a hot tub that's set just offshore. Or maybe it's because their eclectic designers satisfy my desire for wild, wacky, yet stylish, accoutrements, such as a handbag fashioned from dried codfish skin. It might have something to do with the fact that I enjoy strolling into coffee shops that have a sense of character, unlike the cookie-cutter Starbucks that have blossomed all over most major cities. Or perhaps it's because even their new concert hall, Harpa, allows me to have an intimate connection with the mountain and sea scapes beyond.

If you're interested in why I have a love affair with Reykjavik, check out the interview I did with Maria and Anthony Russo, founders of the online magazine, The Culture-Ist. You'll find plenty of travel tips that might surprise even those of you who are Reykjavik savvy.

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Turtles & Tranquility in Dominica

As a native New Yorker, I'm as Type A as they come.  So, when I select a resort, I'm content when I'm got a mass of activities to choose from. And, as a committed tree hugger, I'm also on the lookout for venues that are eco-oriented and laden with verdant foliage. Oh, and I forgot to mention, that I'm also a foodie, so the cuisine should be tempting and healthy. There should be some fine wines available as well as a spa (even a small one) that offers vigorous massages to help me recoup from strenuous hikes and a salt-water, chlorine-free swimming pool.  But, I prefer a a resort that doesn't exude attitude, if you know what I mean. The pretension factor should be low or non-existent. Yes, I've got a lot of criteria when judging a great resort.  And, I found that at the Rosalie Bay Resort in Dominica that had the unique advantage of offering guests the ability to watch endangered sea turltes migrating from the sea, preparing a nest and laying dozens of perfectly round white eggs.

My article for the Huffington Post describes why this resort will satisfy tree huggers, vegetarians, adventure seekers, oenophiles, foodies or those just seeking a tranquil, easy-going resort alike but also where attitude just doesn't come into play.

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