Travel’s in Quebec Eastern Townships - Part 5

Whether dining on tasty delicacies that are artistically presented on the plate, or soaking in one of the outdoor hot tubs, a visit to the contemporary Balnea Spa and its restaurant, Lumami, is a restful retreat.

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Travels in Quebec’s Eastern Townships - Part 4

Strolling along the trails in this expansive wetland (Marais de la Riviere-aux-Cerises) is a treasure for bird watchers and eco-focused visitors alike.

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Travels in Quebec’s Eastern Townships - Part 3

Picturesque Lake Memphremagog in downtown Magog is bordered by a lovely more-than-a-mile ice skating path.

In my travels, I’m often attracted to colors and shapes. This is inside the contemporary interpretive center at the Marais de la Rivière-aux-Cerises, a stellar protected ecosystem in Quebec’s Eastern Townships that provides visitors with insights into the life of this expansive wetland.

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Travels in Quebec’s Eastern Townships - Part 2

Whether you ski Quebec’s Mount Bromont or just take the gondola to the 1,800 foot summit, it’s worth hanging out at the ultra contemporary Summit Lodge for the stellar sunsets.

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Travels in Quebec’s Eastern Townships - Part 1

In Quebec’s Eastern Townships, a visit to the Abbey of St. Benoit du Lac is a must-do, for the overwhelming sense of tranquility, the scenic vistas, eclectic architecture, and insights into the monastic life. This is an image of the St. Benoit Chapel.

A tour inside the Abbey of St. Benoit du Lac in Quebec’s Eastern Townships is especially a must-see for architecture buffs.

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Adventures on Prince Edward Island - Part 3

On the North Lake area, I found the clouds to be mesmerizing.

There were no bad views when I bicycled from the East Point Lighthouse to Souris Beach.

It’s worth spending several days in the charming capital city of Charlottetown that’s peppered with vibrant public art.

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Adventures on Prince Edward Island - Part 2

A walk along the Greenwich Dunes Trail is a must-do when visiting Prince Edward Island. The setting that includes serpentine boardwalks (including a floating boardwalk) and tall sand dunes couldn’t be more bucolic.

Even in cloudy weather, strolling along the floating boardwalk is an enthralling experience.

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Adventures on Prince Edward Island - Part 1

Bicycling around Prince Edward Island is an idyllic experience, full of picturesque views and great seafood. (I fell in love with the abundance of boldly-hued lupines lining the roads.)

Along the north shore, I discovered scenic North Lake, known as the World’s Tuna Capital, with its pristine oceanfront beaches and some blustery headwinds.

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Creative Wanderings in Toronto

Even biking the Toronto Islands off-season is a delight. Taking a guided tour with Toronto Bicycle Tours, I discovered a pristine, undeveloped stretch of sand.

Sculptor Duane Linklater created this series of concrete gargoyles that are replicas of those found around Toronto. This series that’s set in a green space populated with box elder, maple and hickory is referred to as Monsters for Permanence, Beauty and Individuality. It’s along a section of the Lower Don Valley Trail that’s well used by everyone from walkers to cyclists.

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Toronto’s Street Art Scene

Parts of downtown Toronto, such as the Queen Street West area, are awash with exciting street art. These creations can be found at the condos that border the well known nexus of graffiti and street art, Graffiti Alley (aka Rush Lane). I got the low-down on the scene, thanks to Tour Guys Canada. 

This work was created by Toronto natives Nick Sweetman, Poser and others in the Montreal-based artist collective called En Masse.

The vivid boar in this work that’s found along Graffiti Alley (aka Rush Lane) was created by Nick Sweetman.

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A Toronto Sculpture Garden in an Unexpected Location

At the Max Tanenbaum Sculpture Garden, some two dozen colorful pieces of art bedeck a terrace outside a hospital in Toronto. Created by William Lishman, each one reflects a vibrant, active human, something that’s inspirational for all.

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The Scenic Toronto Islands

Bicycling the Toronto Islands (with Toronto Bicycle Tours) in the off-season couldn’t be more idyllic. This scenic chain is a short ferry ride from downtown and is car-free. 

Among the many discoveries I made: 19th century St. Andrew’s Anglican Church. The stained glass, visible also from the exterior, is quite impressive. Interestingly, it was moved to this current scenic location without anything breaking!

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Travels Around Prince Edward Island - Part 2

 Walking along the Black Marsh Trail in western Prince Edward Island couldn’t be more idyllic. You’ll see dramatic cliffs, curious botanicals, numerous bird species and this signature rock that’s red, like much of the land on PEI, because of iron oxide. 

Whether in the forests with their dense canopy or the red rock cliff tops with stunted foliage and towering wind turbines, I ambled this trail, feeling like I was wandering through a wonderful dreamscape with butterflies fluttering about, delicate orchids growing near my feet, the azure sea crashing far below, and the occasional eagle soaring overhead.

The clouds swell and the sea churns as a prelude to the arrival of Hurricane Fiona in Prince Edward Island. Here, I notice the rustling of the tall grasses, and the  humming of a wind turbine that rises in the distance.

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Travels around Prince Edward Island, Canada - Part 1

 On Prince Edward Island, sunrises can be quite dramatic, as seen here behind the 19th century Tignish Church.

The deep water harbor of Miminegash appears relatively calm.

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A Spectacular Garden in Canada's Quebec Maritime Region

The Gaspesie Peninsula in Canada’s Quebec Maritime region is a year-round gem, whether you desire undeveloped sandy beaches, networks of hiking trails or an abundance of cross-country ski options in the winter when a thick blanket of snow coats the landscape. But horticulture fans will also want to visit this area that’s home to the unique and historic Jardins de Métis/Reford Gardens. Here, it’s not just the thousands of botanical specimens that will delight, but also the avant-garde installations that are part of the annual International Garden Festival as well as the numerous sculptures dotting the property. I recently interviewed Alexander Reford, the director as well as great-grandson of the horticulturist and Reford Gardens' creator, Elsie Reford. Here’s my article for Forbes Life. 

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Quebec Maritime Photo - 4

In Quebec Maritime in the village of Sainte-Flavie, some 100 wooden human-like sculptures pepper the shore of the Saint Lawrence River. The sculptures traverse the landscape from the water to the land, with some appearing and disappearing with the tide.

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Another Great Reason to visit New Brunswick, Canada

The little-visited Canadian province of New Brunswick is chock full of treasures waiting to be experiences. And, while most visitors tend to gravitate here only in the summer for the beach and water sport opportunities, New Brunswick is a year-round destination. In the winter, for example, numerous Nordic ski centers beckon with trails that provide plenty of solitude in woodlands. Whether you're coming in out of the cold after a day of skiing or looking for interesting sensory experiences any time of the year, you may want to drive to the tiny town of Petit-Paquetville. That's where you'll find a family-owned distillery and brewery that relies on locally-sourced ingredients. This is my recent article for Forbes on the award-winning Distillerie Fils du Roy in New Brunswick, Canada.

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Photos: New Brunswick, Canada

Many travelers already know about New Brunswick, Canada as a summer destination. But I recently ventured there to check out the cross country ski venues, which are abundant. Each area had a different personality but brought the Nordic skier in close proximity to expansive bays and dense forest lands. And the accommodations are equally varied, ranging from the unique to the charming. Cielo-Glamping Maritime, for example, has five domes with some beside the scenic Bay of St. Simon in Shippagan. On this bay where the most amazing oysters around are raised one can find ice fishing sheds set along the frozen expanse. Fredericton, the capital of Canada's New Brunswick province, is a real treasure with a vibrant art community. This is one of many avant-garde works found at the Beaverbrook Art Gallery. The capital is also home to the Quartermain House B&B, a house that dates to 1840 but one that has taken on a new life as a five-star property with three plush guest rooms.

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Toronto - What I Found Out From The Locals

When two of my friends relocated from New York City to Toronto, I thought it was time to revisit the city and see it the way a local would. They've been living in the city now for just over a year and they shared with me a wealth of information reflecting on their perceptions of a host of social and cultural differences between Canadians (or at least Torontonians or Ontarians as a whole) and Americans -- including Toronto etiquette. Here's what they told me:

• Talking about religion is generally frowned upon. That includes avoiding putting up the office Christmas tree. Even saying "god bless you" when someone sneezes is not done. Certainly a curious finding given the large number of churches in Toronto. But the idea is that they don't wear their religion on their sleeve.

•  Many office workers can expect three-day-weekends 10 months out of the year. That includes Family Day in February, Good Friday, Easter Monday, Victoria Day in May, Canada Day in July and a civic holiday in August.

• Even the most high pressure jobs generally don't have their workers putting in more than 60-hour work weeks. And, it's generally a lot less than that. In Ontario, the average hours worked per week is just about 36.

• On the roads, Torontonians tend to be a more courteous lot, allowing drivers to almost painlessly merge into traffic when you have your signal on. (Of course, there are always exceptions and, remember that my friends are comparing Torontonians with New Yorkers.)

• Just as Torontonians don't like to discuss religion, they also tend to steer conversations away from discussing mental health issues. So, while in New York City it would be very normal to discuss visiting a psychotherapist or filling your prescription for an anti-depressant, not so in Toronto.

• The Toronto courteousness seems to extend to customer service departments as well. My friends had to deal with the fact that their cable and then cell phone were both turned off because of late payments. (Because they hadn't gotten a Canadian-based credit card yet.) Imagine their surprise when,  after they simply said they intend to make a payment, their services were turned right back on.

• Toronto is very much a bike-friendly city with a large network of bike paths strung throughout the city. In a fashion, and certainly, much more than in New York City, bicycles rule.  Businesses try to promote cycling and the city gives out awards to businesses that encourage their people to cycle.

• The city is gung-ho about recycling. You'll find a myriad of different recycle bins all over the city. Even the lovely Leslie Street Spit, an urban wilderness, is built of recycled materials. (Plus, on weekends, it becomes a bicycle-only thoroughfare.)

• There are a litany of Canadianisms, including that all candy bars are referred to as chocolate bars -- whether they contain chocolate or not. 

• It seems that the city has gotten comfortable with the medical marijuana issue, whereby people who suffer from various conditions are legally allowed to smoke, including in certain cafes. But the curious thing is that other people, who are not violating any other law, are also allowed to smoke pot in these venues. (They can't be (or aren't) arrested for simply smoking pot, so I'm told, unless they bring in marijuana or try to sell it or try to smoke tobacco.) Plus, curiously, no one calls it pot. It's referred to as cannabis.

• Toronto is a beach town. Who knew? Bordering Lake Ontario, Toronto has numerous sandy beaches, including the community referred to as The Beaches on the east side of the city, where many take advantage of the long boardwalks and promenades.

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Food & Fitness in Canada's Charlevoix Region

Sixty miles from Quebec City, in a land of rounded wooded hills, small villages nestle in pastoral valleys and steep-sided cliffs plunge precipitously to the St. Lawrence River. Some 350 million years ago, a meteor crashed in this area, shaping the dramatic landscape of Canada's Charlevoix, a World Biosphere Reserve.


The culinary front is the real draw here. So pick up a brochure (or print out the map), hop in your car and drive around. You'll soon see why this region is known for its Flavor Trail (Les Route des Savaeurs), a culinary route with farms, restaurants, hotels and artisanal food producers all focused on promoting, growing and serving local food.

As the chocoholic that you know I am, I couldn't resist Chocolaterie Cynthia. Their spicy Aztec hot chocolate strikes a perfect spicy note. And I spent quite some time browsing their individual chocolate delicacies.

I'm also a cheese fan so a stop at Laiterie Charlevoix is a must. Here you'll find an ecomuseum with plenty of information on cheese production. Spend time sampling their products. My favorite was the velvety Fleumier as well as the raw -- yes, raw -- cheddar.


More fine cheeses are to be had at La Maison d'Affinage. The master cheese maker, Maurice Dufour, has been churning out his award winning Migneran for more than a decade. For those who enjoy strong cheeses, I'd also try the La Ciel de Charlevoix, a mild blue. If you've got the time, hang out and enjoy a cheese plate with fruit and a glass of wine. Can you think of a better way to relax?


One reason you'll want to spend at least four days in the region is to have the time to dine at the many locavore-friendly eateries, such as Auberge La Muse. (If you want to stay right in the town of Baie-Saint-Paul, I'd stay in this 19th century upscale accommodation and maybe indulge in one of their stone massages.) Hank Suzuki, the Japanese chef, has designed a menu that has an Asian influence -- you'll find sushi is on the menu, for example. Since I often order several appetizers for dinner (rather than an entree) when I'm checking out restaurants, that's what I did here as well: emu tartare, and salmon prepared two ways: one marinated with chives and another was gravlax with walnuts and olives.

A grand place to stay (and dine in style) is the Fairmont's Le Manoir Richelieu. You can't get a better venue: the castle-like edifice is huddled on a windswept cliff that towers over the St. Lawrence River. Walk in the door and you'll be transported to another era: with French mirrors and iron balustrades. Of their several restaurants, I'd make a reservation at the luxe Le Charlevoix where I ordered these two appetizers: lobster cappuccino and ginger duck with a foie gras risotto.


After all of this high calorie dining, don't even think about feeling guilty. After all, loads of outdoor activities beckon:

• The Fairmont is graced with a 27-hole golf course with drop-dead gorgeous views of the St. Lawrence River. You can also rent a bicycle, play tennis, walk a network of trails on the property or ask about guided sea or river kayaking.



• The 15-mile road encircling Isle aux Coudres attracts many a road cyclist. Renowned for its apple orchards, this tidy island is a short ferry ride from the mainland. Though small, I wouldn't miss it if I were visiting this area again. Here, you'll find a placid land where you'll delight in apple picking (depending on the season), sipping homemade apple cider, sampling apple butters and checking out a an ecomuseum where you can watch grains being milled in a 19th century watermill.


• In Parc National des Grands-Jardins, you'll be plenty impressed by the sheer rocky peaks that rise to about 3,000 feet. Here you'll find plenty of trails that are perfect for hiking or snowshoeing. When I snowshoed here in the winter, I tackled the short and easy Le Gros Pin Trail, which wanders through a dense spruce and white birch forest. It takes its name for the grand old pine tree that stands at trail's end. Cross country skiers who delight in backcountry terrain will enjoy the park's ungroomed trails that meander through some hilly terrain.

• Dotted with half a dozen lakes, Mont Grand Fonds is popular for its small downhill runs. But, since I often prefer cross-country skiing, I found the almost 100 miles of trails -- some perfect for skating -- quite enticing. On my short five-mile loop I was surprised to find two log chalets -- actually warming huts -- with complimentary hot cocoa. Here I took a short break, lunching on the fixings in my fanny pack: fresh bread, proscuitto and cheddar cheese.

It's certainly not a rough life in Charlevoix.

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