Travel’s in Quebec Eastern Townships - Part 5

Whether dining on tasty delicacies that are artistically presented on the plate, or soaking in one of the outdoor hot tubs, a visit to the contemporary Balnea Spa and its restaurant, Lumami, is a restful retreat.

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Product Review: Spa Treatment from Northern Europe

Typically, when I choose a product for a gear review, it’s not a skin care product. I’m making an exception this time because it does involve a product I heard about when I had traveled to the Northern European Baltic countries, especially Estonia. Recently, someone sent me a sample of this product, which I admit not having thought about in a long while. This is peat mud, which is sourced from bogs in these countries – though it’s found elsewhere in the world. Peat mud comes from decomposed plant life, typically that means shrubs, mosses and sedges, and it’s long been espoused for its rejuvenating and therapeutic properties. It’s used in Nordic spas who claim it improves metabolism, stimulates blood flow in the skin, smooths wrinkles and much more. While I’m all about scientific-based evidence, when I was sent a sample of a peat mud mask (from Sphagnum Botanicals), I decided to try it as part of a staycation spa treatment that might help my skin condition. (I’ve long been plagued with facial seborrheic dermatitis.) The pitch black mud has a neutral aroma and a thick, creamy texture. I applied it all over my face that I had already rinsed and allowed to remain wet, and then I Ieft the mud on my face for five minutes until it was quite dry, then rinsing it off thoroughly. I was surprised to find my facial itching, scaling and redness was dramatically diminished after even one use and this relief lasted for a few days. Additional skin benefits: my skin felt moist and any blackheads were easily removed. Clearly, this is no scientific study. It’s simply my experience. But I’ve used it once a week since for its moisturizing and skin cleansing properties as well as for some relief from my dermatitis symptoms.

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Photos: Southern India

In India, two properties, the Neeleshwar Hermitage in Northern Kerala and Evolve Back in the adjacent province of Coorg, together offer travelers numerous opportunities to connect with nature. While the Neeleshwar Hermitage is on the Arabian Sea, Evolve Back in Coorg is at altitude, set among acres of lush coffee plantations. But, both are eco-oriented properties, offering numerous opportunities for bird watching and educational naturalist treks. And, of course, the culinary delights and spa treatments are stellar.

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Spa Hiking in Vermont

Many of us associate the word "spa" with pampering in the form of water treatments, facials, body wraps, hot stone massages and other pleasant, but sedentary, activities. What I love about the New Life Hiking Spa in Vermont -- and there's much to love -- is that its got my idea of pampering via fitness. Sure, they've got those typical spa treatments we've all come to expect. But I don't go to New Life for a body exfoliation -- though they offered a relaxing one using Chinese herbs, creams and oils. I went to indulge my joy in being fit. And New Life is the right place for fitness. Every day after breakfast they offer hikes for all levels: nature walks, intermediate treks from low-grade to more strenuous, and advanced hikes where you'll be scaling peaks. But the fitness starts before breakfast with a stretch class.

The hikes couldn't have been more idyllic. My friend and I chose an advanced intermediate hike every morning, not because we weren't fit enough for the advanced jaunt but because I don't like precipices nor navigating over scree or boulder fields, something that's always a possibility when summiting. On the intermediate journeys we tackled, we hiked through dense pine forests with the most energizing aromas, strolled beside crystal clear ponds and lakes, and enjoyed numerous scenic panoramas over the state's generous green spaces.

The afternoon was also fitness oriented, with different classes offered every hour, from 2PM through 5PM. Qi Gong, different sorts of yoga practices, outdoor fitness, and circuit training are just a few of the many offerings that change daily and are taught by a cadre of professional, personable and skilled trainers. (Characteristics of the hiking guides as well.) My favorite activities included the latter two classes. Rather than relying on machines (not fun for me), circuit training used Bosu balls for balance, mats to do a plank, sit ups or other exercises, and exercise bands of all sorts for strength training. In the outdoor fitness, we took advantage of the pleasant weather, heading to a spacious lawn for a fun boot camp of sorts. It included high-kneed skipping, tossing medicine-type balls, negotiating an agility ladder and engaging in some of the side-to-side motion typically used to train football players. We felt like children and that is what fitness should all be about.

The New Life Hiking Spa is only open part of the year, using the spaces at Killington's Cortina Inn and Resort. Expect an informal, a bit rustic and completely unpretentious environment. In other words, leave the glittery evening clothes and pearls at home. In speaking with the array of guests who have a wide range of ages, many have returned time and again sometimes for 11+ years, for many reasons, including the camaraderie and the hiking.  New Life has been around for almost 40 years. They obviously have the recipe for success. After all, one of the best ways to help people lose the weight they desire is to just get them moving in fun activities. I can't think of anything more fun than hiking in forest land.

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An Eco-Conscious Coffee Plantation in Mexico

Whenever I walk into a Starbucks - which is as infrequent as possible - I often wonder why they can't make a good cup of coffee. (Obviously, I'm in the minority considering their huge sales figures and the number of stores that pop up on every other corner in Manhattan where customers flock to the counter for high-fat frappuccinos and overly sweet caramel macchiatos.) But, as a coffee lover, I'm always determined to find the perfect cup. So, it was to my delight when I spent several days at the Argovia Finca Resort, a sustainable and organic coffee plantation in the mountains of Mexico's Chiapas province.

I just wrote about my stay at Argovia for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel. After reading this, you'll never wonder again what makes a great cup of coffee. (It takes a lot of care, work, knowledge, and thoughtfulness, qualities that are in abundance at this coffee plantation.)

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Chilling Out in Tel Aviv

I promised more postings about my recent trip to Israel. These are some of the venues where I chilled out from my usual high-adrenalin wanderings:

• The restaurant at the boutique Hotel Montefiore is a must dinner stop. After all, this is the place to see and be seen. It seems all of the top designers and architects and others I spoke with had dined here. During my one-week visit, I visited here twice and I saw that the liveliest spot to dine is the bar, rather than the adjacent dining room. Here I sat alone beside a couple celebrating the wife's 30th birthday. But I didn't feel alone for long. After ordering several appetizers -- the shrimp salad with cellophane noodles, and the Four Nams, small egg rolls that you wrap in lettuce and mint leaves -- they soon ordered vodka shots, poured some for me and invited me in several toasts. You gotta love Israel -- this never happened to me in New York City. The restaurant offers a fusion Vietnamese menu and, though I didn't find every dish memorable, the atmosphere definitely was.

• Down the street from Hotel Montefiore, a new wine bar, referred to simply as The Wine Bar, is set on a corner of Nachalat Binyamin Street at 15 Montefiore Street. This two-floor glass ensemble provides an intimate venue on the top floor where you can snuggle with your date at the solo table while looking out at the large glass windows. I sat at the bar on the ground floor sipping a wonderful Chardonnay from the Golan Heights -- an area known for its wines. Though most of the varieties are from Israel, you can also find wines from Chile, France, Australia and Spain. They also serve food: I vote for the ravioli stuffed with lamb and garlic and the excellent creme brulee with pomegranate.

• On the old Tel Aviv Port waterfront which has been renovated into a shopping, dining, nightlife venue. Among the many options, I chose to hang out at ultra-laid back Shalvata. This restaurant/bar is most noted for its outdoor patio complete with thatch umbrellas and sofas with plenty of colorful throw pillows. I wish the weather was cooperative because I would've hung out staring at the sea. But with the cool weather, I retreated to the spacious interior where a palm tree pierces the reed ceiling, a wood burning stove sits in the middle of the space and the bartenders are plenty willing to chat.

• Also on the old Tel Aviv Port, the Coola Spa is a hidden gem for women. This women's only day spa is so much more. It's a place where they offer everything from belly dancing classes to movement therapy. Sited on the waterfront, coming here on a sunny day allows you to sit outside on a lounge chair and enjoy the sea views. Their treatments are plenty varied, including Japanese, Chinese, Hawaiian and Indian massages as well as a even a Tibetan treatment. Chocolate lovers, like myself, can opt for a chocolate treatment. They're really got something for every woman, including those who are pregnant. It's really more like a regenerative day retreat.
• In Jaffa, just south of Tel Aviv's center, I found a restaurant with the most wonderful location. Babai is set right on a windswept seafront with nothing to impede the ocean-front views. Sitting beside the tall windows, I wanted something light so I asked if I could just have a mix of dishes, a little humus, baba ganoush, that sort of thing. Wonderfully, 15 small individual plates arrived, each with a tasty salad: baba ganoush, lentils with onions, curried cabbage, tomatoes with garlic, tabouli and much more. Plus, warm pita bread. These simple but varied dishes and a view that can't be beat makes this a winning locale.

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10 Don't Miss Activities in Madeira

With it's rugged volcanic peaks, exotic flowers, a network of levadas or level walking paths and a wild virgin forest dating back millions of years, it's no wonder that visitors to Madeira, a small archipelago far out in the Atlantic, describe it as a tiny piece of paradise. Here are 10 of my favorite activities:

1. Take the cable car that sweeps above Funchal's ravine-like valley to the Monte Palace Tropical Garden where the wooded paths are lined with elaborate Portuguese tile work, 17^th century coats of arms, ancient stone window frames and many other surprises.

2. In Monte, visitors, seated in a wicker sofa atop wood runners, experience a hair-raising toboggan ride down hairpin turns along steep, narrow cobblestone streets with two men steering and braking using their thick boots

3. The scenic road that twists and turns to the summit of Pico do Areeiro runs through a volcanic land covered in rare flora and provides unparalleled views of valleys laced with streams. It's also a jumping off point for short walks to see the central mountain range rising from a thick cloud cover.

4. Madeira is most noted for its levadas, a network of almost 1,000 miles of irrigation channels that are bordered by a level but often precipitous walking path. Nonetheless, though the reputation of the island's levadas often turn away acrophobic visitors, there are plenty of lovely levada walks coursing through Madeira's unique environment without the fear factor. The walk from Ribeira Frio to Portelo takes walkers through a protected laurisilva forest, Madeira's native woodland that's so precious it's designated a UNESCO World Heritage site

5. Drive to Curral das Freiras, a village isolated by deep abysses and thick woodland has been a haven for 16^th century nuns who fled a local convent when pirates ransacked Funchal. At the Nuns's Valley restaurant you can sample the homemade chestnut or almond cakes.

6. Try a glass of poncha -- considered a popular Madeira drink made of sugar cane brandy plus honey and lemon -- at Victor's Bar, a rural restaurant near a trout hatchery with basalt stone pools.

7. Once you've checked out the cozy A-frame thatched cottages in the village of Santana you can have lunch at Quinta do Furao where a wrap-around porch provides views of rugged sea cliffs and giant offshore rocks. When I dined here for lunch, I enjoyed grilled limpets, fresh cheese and bread baked in a wood oven.

8. Visit Funchal's fish market where you can check out the scabbard fish, an island delicacy that looks fierce with a large eel-like body, bulbous eyes and sharp jagged teeth.

9. Whether it's the English-style and tropical gardens, 18-hole par 72 golf course (Perched at 500 feet above sea level, the clubhouse provides panoramic views of the Bay of Funchal), or Casa Velha Do Palheiro, a five-star country house, you’ll find plenty to do at the Palheiro Estate that dates back to the 1800s. This former hunting lodge provides guests with the use of the private yacht. Plus you won’t want to miss a meal at their restaurant, considered one of the island’s best with some select Portuguese wines available. When I was there, they served: pigeon and foie gras with gingered sweet potato puree; blue lobster and avocado with mango in a rice paper wrap. You can have high tea with scones in the afternoon or stop by the teahouse for homemade pastries.

10. Treat yourself at the hilltop Zen-inspired Choupana Hills Resort and Spa. Here, guests are pampered in a tranquil property with almost three dozen bungalows made of teak and basalt stone. (The suites are my preference with their canopy beds and wraparound terraces.) Light streams into the interior, thanks to walls of windows overlooking the lush gardens or the Bay of Funchal far below. Here, you can have aromatherapy, hot stone massage or an algae wrap and soon Reiki treatments.

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10 Cool, New Shops in Reykjavik

I promised you more on Reykjavik and here it is. 2008 has seen a lot of new, renovated or relocated restaurants, shops and other venues. And, I'm crossing my fingers that, despite the economic crash, they all survive and thrive. Here's what I found on my recent trip: 1. O The former Siggi Hall restaurant has a new life as O, an upscale restaurant in Hotel Odinsve with chef Eythor Runarsson -- he's on the Icelandic Culinary team -- at the helm. They're serving a menu that's focused on new Nordic cuisine. Among the delicacies on the menu: arctic char with pistachios, and salted cod with sugared cabbage. 2. Lykkjufall — They're not new but they just relocated to a new space. Specializing in unique clothing designed for women who are breast-feeding, the store attracts plenty of women (including myself) who are not breast-feeding yet who clamor for these stylish items. 3. Hemmi and Valdi — Where else can you work on your laptop at 10 p.m. beside people casually drinking a glass of wine, sipping a cappuccino or strumming a guitar while the kids are using crayons to sketch? This is a cosy bar -- though I use the term loosely -- with card games and crayons scattered about and decorated with second-hand furniture that's all for sale. Once I settled in, I didn't want to leave. 4. Emm — Combining a designer clothing store and a cosmetics shop, Emm is oriented to satisfying the needs of the strong, independent women. The fashionable, wearable, trendy items (e-label) all revolve around a sophisticated black color palette, perfect for New Yorkers like myself. Women owned and designed, the store also is home to MM, a cosmetics shop where you can reserve a girl's afternoon of make-up, hair and cocktails. 5. Kryddlegin Hjorta — In my opinion, this new restaurant -- the name is the Icelandic equivalent of the movie title: Like Water for Chocolate -- has one of the best views of the waterfront with the majestic peaks in the distance. Don't expect a menu here. The owner cooks whatever suits her mood at the moment. But it's all great. Everything is organic -- at least it is right now but who knows; that could change with the economic downturn. Lunch is soup, bread and salad but it's something not to miss. I had one of the four soups, the Thai chicken soup with peanuts and chili and, if I had room, I would've had seconds. She also bakes all the thick, healthy breads, like spelt with barley. They only serve dinner on weekends when you also might be treated to drumming night -- her husband is a drummer who has traveled the world. 6. Blue Lagoon Spa — This is not the famous Blue Lagoon not far from the airport. It's a very convenient, new downtown spa with Blue Lagoon treatments. You can soak in a jacuzzi that sits under a small waterfall, sign up for a algae, silica and lava mud scrub or an algae wrap. They also have a very reasonable day-pass so you have full use of the health club. This is a place where you could spend an entire day, or at least the afternoon. 7. Boston Bar — Though the bar isn't new the menu they're serving is. Plus, they now have Bjork's chef, Numi Thomasson, cooking up some simple but tasty options. Only five dishes are served, including citrus garlic herb chicken leg with brown curry rice, and spotted catfish with warm pear and blue cheese sauce. Even if you're not hungry, Boston is one of Reykjavik's loveliest bars, without all the crazy frenzy you see in so many nightspots. (Plus it's also open for lunch.) 8. Aftur — Not new but just expanded its quarters and also it's now open every day of the week. All the clothes are made from recycled clothes and no two are alike. They're all fun and function. I especially coveted the hooded wool capes. Perfect for snowy days in New York when I also need to look fashionable. 9. Kaffi Hljomalind — This non-profit coop just moved to a new location on the main shopping street. It's an amazing social spot considering it's a vegetarian cafe that also houses an art gallery, political library and much more. When I was there, they had a calendar on the wall listing yoga classes, tango lesson, live music performances and independent films. It's another quaint spot to hang out for several hours. The grilled cheese with sundried tomatoes is particularly yummy. 10. Fotografi — This photo gallery and retail shop opened a year ago but the walls are now hung with more of the work of the three owner/photographers. They've got some very avant garde images as well as gorgeous Iceland/Reykjavik-related scenes. If you love anything to do with photography, you must visit this friendly and creative venue. I stopped by twice during one weekend because I felt I missed some treasure. They also host some nice temporary exhibitions in the rear gallery.

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