Gear Review: A Cool Icelandic Company

Most anyone who visits Reykjavik ends up buying some piece of high-tech outwear or other clothing item from 66°NORTH, a well respected company that produces, everything from shells and parkas to thermal underwear, scarves and hats. But, my favorite Icelandic high-tech company is Cintamani. It started with finding their website before my first trip to Iceland several years ago and noting it had a bit of a sense of fancy. Then, once I visited the store, I found that I was captured not just by their icon, which, resembling a sun with solar flares, seemed to embody this land of fire and ice, but also by the clothing that was light, comfortable, warm and well designed.

Oddly enough, I've asked several people recently who are very gear savvy about Cintamani and none of them have heard of it. Unlike 66°NORTH, which can be found in stores across the U.S., I've only found Cintamani in Iceland or online. Too bad because this is a high performance product that looks great.

 

I opted to test out the Embla, an ultra-light, zippered jacket. It's constructed of Technopile, which is a synthetic fleece that wicks away sweat, is breathable, dries quickly and feels very plush. It doesn't pill with use. And, even better, I wear this not only on the trail but also during the day by pairing it with a dress or skirt. It's comfortable in the winter when layered over a Merino wool (which I prefer) sweater, but I'm also wearing it in the spring now as my sole jacket over a T-shirt or blouse. If the day becomes too warm, I just tie it around my waist or roll it up into my small bag -- it takes up little room and the weight in my bag is barely noticeable. Plus, if I end up in a super air-conditioned store or movie theater, the Embla comes to the rescue.

 It's got two zippered side pockets that come in handy for a wallet or just keys and loose change.  The neck comes up relatively high to keep me warm if there's a cold breeze. The price, though, is hardly for the budget minded. The Embla retains for upwards of $140 or so. In my view, though, it's well worth it. And, like with the Nau product I just reviewed, the Embla is coming with me on my trip to Portugal and Luxembourg. In fact, I'll be wearing it on the plane too. (It looks like it might also double as a nice pillow or lumbar support.)

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Gear Review: Eco-Friendly + Stylish Clothing

Yes, I'm a gear head, especially when it concerns clothing. I'm always on the lookout for very wearable, practical, yet stylish clothing that packs well, dries quickly and is eco-friendly on top of it.  I just found such a clothing manufacturer, Nau, when I was browsing recently in REI in New York City.  Nau's high-tech, performance-based products are minimalist, light and fashionable. That's a lot to expect from a dress that I tested out, the Chrysalis, aptly named considering it transforms from a light, water-repellent, mid-thigh-length shell (that I wore as a long-sleeve dress in cool weather atop a black SmartWool sweater and black leggings) to a sleeveless dress with a hoodie.

 The Chrysalis is feather light and, though it looks quite simple, when I wore it all over New York City, it elicited comments from fashion-conscious and fellow gear heads alike. The craftsmanship is apparent as is the appealing silhouette. No matter if it was a breezy, chilly, rainy or sun-filled day (or all of these weather conditions in a single day as Spring in New York City tends to be quite fickle), the Chrysalis was oh-so-comfortable and adaptable.

This dress is made of 100% recycled polyester with an added water repellent finish. It's got two cute ties on the waist that you can cinch, as well as two deep front pockets, and a flattering back pleat. Plus, the hoodie converts to a lovely shawl collar. The construction easily allows the Chrysalis to go from day to night, from the bike path to the bar.

One day, I sat down to a meeting with a colleague who brought along her toddler. Within moments, her three-year-old proceeded to spill an entire glass of chocolate milk on my Chrysalis. I was unfazed, as I watched the milk bead up and blotted up the remaining liquid with a paper towel, leaving the Chrysalis fresh and unstained.

On top of all this, Nau's eco-credentials are coherent with my sensibilities: the company has a respect for nature, is a proponent of bicycle advocacy and hugs trees as much as I do. The organizations they've partnered with include Mercy Corps that delivers relief to communities affected by disaster or civil unrest; Ashoka that brings together investors, entrepreneurs and governments to initiate social change; and The Bikes Belong Foundation that has the goal of making the U.S. are more bike-friendly country.

I'm off to Portugal and Luxembourg this week and I'm wearing the Nau Chrysalis on the plane. Since I don't check luggage and I need clothing items that does double or triple duty, this will be my new favorite piece.

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Colombia Beyond the Myths

When I tell friends I'm about to take off on a new adventure, if I happen to be traveling to Hawaii, the Caribbean, Spain, Chile or dozens of other places around the world, often the response is, "Oh, can you take me in your backpack?" That's not the response I got when I told friends and colleagues that I was venturing to Colombia. Instead, I heard, "Oh, be careful." "Don't go out at night." "You're not going alone, are you?" "Wow. Colombia. Well, email me that you're safe."

Even when I returned and told of the expansive nature preserves, the hot nightlife in Bogota, the fine restaurants with wines from around the world, the boutique hotels with spas, and quaint colonial villages paved with cobblestones, the responses were, "Sounds nice. Glad you didn't get kidnapped." Poor Colombia. There's so much beauty and culture that most people are missing because they continue to believe that terrorists, thieves, drug lords and kidnappers are lurking around every corner.

 My article for the Huffington Post describes 20 of the treasures I found on my recent trip to Colombia. And, as we all know, it's the people you encounter that can make or break a trip. In Colombia, I was surprised to find so many people who were delighted that someone from New York came all the way to their country.

And, if you don't feel like visiting Colombia alone, then check out Voyage Colombia, a company I used to help me plan this trip. They'll set up your itinerary based on your interests, whether it's the culinary scene or more nature based, and also provide an English-speaking guide and/or a driver that will be flexible, informative, helpful and absolutely interested that you enjoy your stay in Colombia.

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Adventurous Hiking in Dominica

How does a peaceful walk in the woods become one of the most strenuous (and scary) hikes on the island of Dominica? That's what I'm still asking myself as I wait for my sprained knee to recover and the blisters and wounds on my hands to heal.

It starts innocently enough. I'm lounging beside the saltwater pool at the eco-friendly, ultra informal Rosalie Bay Resort when I mention to someone that I'd love to hike a low-key trail. Nothing with treacherous river crossings or knife edges that drop precipitously to points unknown. Nothing that lasts more than four hours round-trip. It's not that I'm an aerobic weakling. Quite the contrary, I'm a long distance cyclist, hiker and cross country skier. I'm just not someone with a Type T personality; aka, I'm not a thrill seeker. I'm not interested in ending up on one of those legendary Dominican hikes, such as Morne Diabloton, which translates to Devil's Mountain. Enough said. Or Boiling Lakes, a hike with scalding sink holes lurking about and one that just about everyone who visits Dominica tackles. As a volcanic island coated with jungle-like foliage that climbs to over 4,000 feet above sea level, Dominica isn't necessarily for the faint of heart. Instead, I'm seeking a trail that was scenic, full of botanical wonders, under the radar (of course), and nothing that would land me in the hospital. After all, I have a 2 pm lunch date at the Riverside Cafe that's said to serve amazing coffee beverages as well as smoked fish pie and a homemade lime sorbet.

Oscar, the older gentleman who becomes my guide, mentions Boli (or Bolive, as it's also called) Falls. "It's perfect for you," he says. "No river crossings. No knife edges. No one knows about it. And it's an easy three-hour round trip." Sounds like a no brainer.

Though it isn't the rainy season, which doesn't start for another two months, the day starts off with tumultuous showers. (A bad sign.) And it turns out that Oscar hasn't done the hike in seven years. (Turns out it's more like 10 years.) He feels it's safer -- hmmm, wonder what that means -- with a local who knows the trail well. In the nearby hamlet of Casgory in La Plaine, we meet someone who is referred to us. This bare chested younger man doesn't seem anxious to do this trail, however. Haggling ensues in the middle of the petite lane framed by boldly hued wood framed houses encircled with crotons, ornamental ginger and heliconia. "It's bad weather," says Augustus. "What's bad about it? It's rain," says Oscar. "Bad weather," replies Augustus. This goes back and forth. Somehow an agreement is struck and we drive through the bush to a flat "parking spot" rimmed in vine-like plants. Oscar confides in me. "I don't know how our Dominican men have gotten so soft."

Augustus doesn't look happy. He looks at the now drizzle. "We have to cross a river." I'm sure I've misheard. River, what river? Oscar says, "When I did this trail seven years ago, I didn't cross a river." "There's a river," says Augustus who takes off through the grass.

What starts off as a perfectly flat, pasture-like trail quickly slopes to 70 degrees of slick mud, gnarled roots and thick vines. But, since I know it would only be 1.5 hours of this Stairmaster exercise and a gorgeous waterfall (actually three) awaits, I keep climbing. I must admit that, in the back of my head -- at least it's in the back for the first 1.5 hours -- I'm thinking how I'm going to get back down. This is, by far, the steepest trail I've ever hiked. (And I hike all over the world.)

Somehow, while desperately grasping at vines and using the roots as steps on a ladder to nowhere, I spy the verdant La Plaine Valley through the trees. Massive Sloanea trees with impressive buttress roots pierce our path that becomes increasingly flooded. The air is filled with the sounds of the mountain whistler and other bird squawking and twittering. Amazingly, through this dark canopy, a small window opens, revealing the Atlantic. I manage to take a micro break and ask Oscar what's up ahead. "The worst is over," he says. Though it becomes less steep, it's only for the briefest time. Soon, we're back on the 70-degree slope where, at times, I feel like I'll fall backwards, perhaps all the way to the pastoral trail head. Clearly, Oscar misremembers this hike.

And yet, there's much beauty. We pass a bois diable tree that's considered one of the hardest woods around. (It's commonly referred to as the Devil's Wood.) Gommier trees with their sticky sap dripping down their trunks are around every corner. The pungent resin is used to start a fire while the wood is traditionally carved into boats. All the baskets I saw in the nearby Carib villages the other day were made from the fiber of the Larouma tree that stands in front of me. The fronds of tree ferns flutter above our heads -- Oscar tells me the island is home to 65+ fern species -- and somehow despite the thick shade, an orange tree manages to bear small fruits.

The views of the ocean become better and better while my anxiety grows with each new toe or hand hold. Now I dread the return journey even though the iced latte beckons. When Oscar points out a White Wood tree that the economically disadvantaged use to fashion a coffin, I wonder if this is an omen.

It's not all about climbing, however, We have stretches of the path that plummet down, making it difficult to remain upright.  (This portends what I can expect on the return journey.)

Though Oscar is the strong, silent type, I know he's also worried when he asks Augustus if we could take the fork to the right, to cut off some of the climbing. "It's a steep downhill," he warns. "Steeper than we've already done?" asks Oscar. Augustus nods. "We're not doing anything steeper than what we did." We plod on and Augustus, who says little, reveals that it was his father who cut this trail a long time ago.

Suddenly the air is filled with the crashing of water -- it's the Sari Sari River, I'm later told. (Hopefully it won't be crashing much when I have to fjord it.) A green Sisserou Parrot, the national bird, flits by.

More than 1.5 hours has passed and, yet, each time we ask Augustus how far, he says "Man, we got to climb a mountain and then straight." He demonstrates our trajectory with an arm gesture depicting a slope of a hill and then a beeline for the waterfall. The only problem is that this is what he's now told us three times over the past hour or so. Clearly, his idea of one mountain to climb isn't the same as ours.

Once we hit the two-hour point, I'm very worried. But, I have to put aside these ruminations in favor of the immediate task: crossing the tumbling river. We plant our feet on some precariously placed rocks and still have to step into the icy waters to get across. And the climbing begins afresh.

Oscar pulls me aside and says that Augustus doesn't seem confident as to the trail, which is now difficult to follow. Plus, the 3 hour round trip has ballooned to almost 5 hours!

Finally, I spy a waterfall cascading dramatically down a cliff in the distance. Actually this is the third (and the one with the steepest drop) in the triad of what makes up the Bolive Falls. When you follow the trail that terminates at the emerald transparent pool of Bolive, you'll only be able to see the top two cascades, and not this third one. But it would take another 30 minutes or so to reach the refreshing pool. And, again, Augustus does his little arm gesture of another mountain we have to navigate and then the straight-away.

Suddenly the sky darkens and Oscar says "The weather is changing. We have to turn back now." He's worried about the river rising. How prescient, considering in an instant, we're hit with torrential rains that don't let up for over an hour. This is when the trek becomes decidedly a hike on the wilder side of wild. No, not the river re-crossing which, though it's much higher than before, is very manageable. No, it's the descent with slippery roots, thick mud, no place to get a toe or heel hold, and nothing to hold me upright. So, faced with falling on my face either straight down or careening over the edge, I opt for sitting on my butt. (That doesn't work great either, which is why my hands become lacerated,  my legs and arms are stained with the odoriferous sap and I sprain my knee.)

Just as suddenly, the thunderous rains halt and the sun blazes through the trees. A light mist settles over the forest, which is now soundless. Finally, the birds reappear and the trail reverts to the flat pastoral landscape where we started so many hours ago.

Thankfully, Oscar did regular weight training because he managed to get a death grip on my arm during each of the many treacherous descents, making sure I made it safely back to the car, and my much needed latte. Though I'm covered in mud, and limping and bleeding, I head to the Riverfront Cafe for a very late lunch. Since I didn't eat or drink anything on the entire 5+ hour hike, I end up having two iced lattes at the Riverfront Cafe, smoked fish pie, a piece of onion pie, chocolate cake and the lime sorbet. 

Back at Rosalie Bay, whenever I tell anyone where I trekked, they exclaim, "Bolive! You did Bolive?" And then they proceed to relate how they would never do this hike. Someone says there are three things he knows about Bolive: It's long, it's beautiful and it's challenging. Only when I check online do I find out that Bolive is considered one of Dominica's most difficult and adventurous hike.

At least now I can stand confidently in front of all my friends who've visited Dominica and regalted me with tales of their testosterone-laden hike to Boiling Lakes. They'll know that I didn't wimp out. I did Bolive.

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Luxury in Atlantic City Without Breaking The Bank

How did a non-gambler like myself -- well, not exactly non-gambler; I do play craps every once in awhile -- who thrives on nature end up staying in (and enjoying!) Atlantic City, New Jersey? After all, I was seeking out a budget destination with peace and quiet where I could sit in a sun-filled environ -- a perfect ambiance for me to finish writing Act 1 of my second feature-length script.

I set some difficult-to-fulfill criteria: I needed a four-night getaway that was close to New York City and accessible by bus or train. The accommodations couldn't cost more than $100 a night. There should be an array of restaurants with cuisine that would satisfy the foodie in me but with menus that also fit a budget-minded trip. And, because, I'm not like writers who gravitate to dark, brooking enclaves, I needed an abundance of natural light and venues that provided access to botanical views. The Borgata and the Water Club at the Borgata to the rescue. These connected properties fit all my criteria. So much so that I'm hoping to return in a couple of months to work on Act 2.

I didn't want to battle traffic and deal with parking fees by driving to Atlantic City. So instead, I took the bus and spent a relaxing 2.5 hours reading the Sunday New York Times. The Greyhound Lucky Streak buses run almost every hour or so (depending on the time of the day and whether it's a weekend or weekday departure) directly from New York City's Port Authority to several different Atlantic City casinos, including Bally's or the Trump Taj Mahal. (The round-trip ticket is a mere $35.) Supposedly the buses are equipped with WiFi, but my buses were not equipped with it.

Once we arrived, rather than hopping in an expensive taxi for the short, 20 minute ride to the Borgata and The Water Club at the Borgata, we jumped in the Atlantic City Jitney - the fare is a mere $2.25. (The Route 2 or Route 3 Jitney serves the Borgata.) Sure, it makes a multitude of stops, but it's still better than the $15+ for the cab.

Both the Borgata and the Water Club have midweek specials (not during high season, of course) that hover around $99. And for this highly inexpensive price, we had a spacious contemporary room with massive windows overlooking the nearby marina as well as the adjacent protected salt marshes that is along a bird migratory path. (You're probably wondering could this really be Atlantic City?)

One of the highlights of a stay at the Borgata or The Water Club is the Borgata's Spa Toccare along with the adjacent health club, the Pump Room. We plunked down $40 a day and had full access to the spa facilities as well as the health club. (The gym by itself is $12 a day.) It's easy to spend the entire morning or afternoon here luxuriating in the various hot tubs, sauna and steam bath. The lighting is subdued as I snuggled in a thick robe, sipped a fresh juice, nibbled on Granny Smith apples and lounged about. (A perfect de-stresser before starting work on my script each day.) The health club, that stocked copies of the New York Times as well as bracing cold towels, was relaxed and hardly crowded. Among the multitude of machines, the one that became my favorite, the Wave by TechnoGym,  simulates a skating action, whether on roller blades or Nordic skis. I was told that no one ever uses it so I always had it to myself.

I spent every day at the Water Club's heated indoor pool (actually pools) since, in a sun-saturated room that looks out to a foliage-laden garden, there is the main heated pool as well as a smaller infinity, plunge pool and a couple of hot tubs. This was my "office" over three days where I settled in on one of the chaise lounges for hours with my laptop. No one under 18 is allowed in the pool area -- it's only available to Water Club guests -- so the quiet atmosphere was conducive to hours of creativity.

My only break during the day was for lunch where I ordered from the poolside service: the Mediterranean platter (with humus, baba ganoush, tabouleh and pita), or the tuna salad (made with olive oil rather than loaded with mayonnaise, plus red onions, anchovies and roasted peppers) and a glass of Gramona Cava from Spain. (These were splurge options since the salads ran $17 to $20 and the wine another $13.) The food is all prepared in the nearby Sunroom, an appropriately named bar/restaurant that resembles a greenhouse with plants, including bamboo, draped in clusters, and a wall of cascading water. And, given that celebrity chef Geoffrey Zakarian is the culinary consultant, it's no wonder the menu is highly focused on modern American cuisine. When I was seeking a low-key spot to hang out at night, I also chose to sip a glass of wine at the Sunroom beside a blazing fireplace.

Another tasty lunch option is Roma, a casual Italian spot serving thin-crust individual pizzas ($13 plus extra for additional toppings), such as the San Remo with anchovies, mozzarella, olives and arugula.

My breakfast choice was The Metropolitan. Though the prices are not cheap by any means – oatmeal is more than $6 and pancakes are $9 -- I found that the huevos rancheros ($11) were well worth it. They were filling, the salsa provided the right balance of heat and the easy-over eggs were not overcooked, making this the one of the best huevos rancheros dishes I've ever eaten. (I just had them go light on the monterey jack.)

For dinner, each night I found a different budget-minded menu at myriad restaurants. But, when I think about eating on a budget, upscale dining hardly comes to mind. But, at the Borgata,  it's de rigueur.

SeaBlue –  As part of their Social Hour, every Sunday night a half-price menu is in effect until 7:00pm. The setting, with its blue palette including a blue-hued marble bar, conveys an ocean motif. Among the items on the Michael Mina-designed bar menu are the fritto misto with shrimp, calamari, snapper and smelt; and deviled eggs with white anchovies and shallots.

Izakaya – Every item at this contemporary Japanese eatery is just $7 all night on Mondays. Among the most well-crafted dishes are the duck meatballs with foie gras, terikayki skewers atop soba noodles, and crispy chicken bao bun with mint and shallots. Don't miss the dessert: a rich trio of milk shakes with smores.

N.O.W (aka Noodles of the World) – Tuesday is a good night to dine at this Asian-focused restaurant that's a bit hard to find. (It's on the casino floor adjacent to the Asian gaming table gaming area.) Most of the dishes, including the broth noodles and creations from the wok, are under $15. Two of us shared the Kyoto Udon which consists of udon noodles with shrimp, chicken and roast pork; and the Hong Kong shrimp wanton that's accompanied by egg noodles and shrimp dumplings. The seating options are at the sushi bar or at long communal tables.

Fornelleto – During Wine Down Wednesdays, this upscale Italian restaurant offers small plates and Napolitana pizzas for just $10. Even the paired wines – and their selection is extensive – starts at $10. Popcorn shrimp with  spicy aioli, grilled beef sliders topped with gorgonzola cheese and dried tomatoes, and an oyster mushroom pizza sprinkled with goat cheese are some of their flavorful options.

Among the many surprises I discovered during my stay was a lovely pedestrian walkway that's saturated with the sounds of nature. It extends some two miles from the back of the Borgata to Harrah's and then on to the Golden Nugget. Interestingly, I found that few people who knew anyting about this path which hugs a protected salt marsh that's along a migratory bird path. All along the trail, which is lighted at night, are benches and placards documenting the many birds and other natural phenomena that can be viewed along the way. It's not unusual to spy peregrin falcons, brants and other birds. For the most bird sightings and sounds, walk, jog or bike this path early in the morning.

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Gear Reviews: Keeping Valuables Safe While Traveling

Even though I'm a very savvy traveler, skillful pickpockets -- they're pretty much all skillful if they want to survive on the streets -- managed to get into my backpack when I visited Madrid several years ago. Within seconds, while I was engaged in conversation with a stranger, the second member of what was a team took all my valuables: passport, driver's license, all my credit and bank cards, and my money (luckily there was only about 50 Euros). Since then, I altered the way I carry my gear but a number of theft-proof items are also now available.

Below are my reviews of two of these products: Adam Rapp of http://clothingarts.com/ offered me a pair of his Pick-Pocket Proof Pants (the Adventure Traveler Pants model), and Alex Ivory, the founder of Dovetail Travel in Peace, sent me a small zippered black pouch containing two of her body bands. While the latter is a women's product, the Adventure Traveler Pants are currently only available for men -- though Clothing Arts will soon be manufacturing women's pants. (My friend tested out the pants and provided detailed feedback while I also tried them on to check out the multitude of features.)


1. Clothing Arts - Pick-Pocket Proof Pants - Adventure Traveler Pants

Sure, these cargo-type pants are expensive at $110, but they're absolutely worth it. After all, if a pair of pants could positively protect you from theft of your passport, money, credit cards, cell phone and more, how much would you be willing to pay? My friend at first was shocked at the price. But he found these pants to be nicely tailored with a perfect fit. He noted the high quality production, whether the zippers, stain-resistant material, and thick, slash-resistant pockets. Though he doesn't travel anywhere near the amount I do, he admitted that he'd definitely wear these if pickpockets were a threat. Sometimes he has to do business in some not great neighborhoods here in New York City and these pants would come in handy. He'd put his most valuable items (such as a wallet) in one of the zippered pockets that are covered by buttoned flaps. (There are also flaps over the vertical zippered pockets.) The flaps on the rear pockets, he added, were so hard for him to unbutton that he thought it would definitely stymie a thief who, after fiddling with buttons would then have to also undo the zipper. (It took my friend 10 to 15 seconds to undo the buttons and the zipper on a pocket.) Plus, one pocket has a hidden -- so hidden that we both had difficulty finding it -- inner zippered pocket that fits your most valuable item: your passport. It's hard to imagine how a pickpocket would navigate inside that pocket. In my opinion, you'd have to be unconscious for a thief to get into these pants pockets.

These pants have so many pockets, including one that's attachable to hold a small water bottle, that you could skip carrying a tote bag. (The pants can easily accommodate a guidebook, small camera, cell phone, note book and more.) You don't even have to wear a belt since there is a buttoned waist cinch system.

My friend said he'd wear these pants if theft were an issue, which it is in many cities around the world. If you are placing valuables in the rear zippered and buttoned down pockets, choose items that you won't need to access frequently during the day. (It'll just take too long with the buttons.) He decided that around town here in New York City, he'll just forgo the double layer of security and use just the zippers. That's an option here, of course. But it's nice to know that so much thought went into the construction of these pants. I can't wait until the woman's version is available.


2. Dovetail Travel in Peace

I've been in plenty of situations, such as an overnight train to Sicily and the souks in Morocco, where I wished I could really hide valuables so no prying hands can get to them for the entire day or night. These two super slim body bands -- the Travel Band and the Travel Wing -- to the rescue.  When I opened the petite zippered bag, I found two black items that resemble lingerie of sorts. Both items (and they can be worn separately over your underwear: the wing goes over your bra and the band slips over your panties and sits on your hips) are mostly black nylon with a little spandex. The idea is that the stretchy pocket in each band is supposed to accommodate a plastic portfolio where you can slip your passport, money and credit cards.

 I found that the portfolio (stuffed with my passport and credit cards) was a snug but good fit in the Wing, which you wear with the pocket along your upper back. However, I just didn't like what appeared to be the plastic odor off-gassing from the portfolio so I dumped it in favor of simply placing my passport in the Wing. That worked out fine. Then I donned my ExOfficio shirt and my Horny Toad jacket or I wore the Wing under one of my Icebreaker dresses, and I felt perfectly comfortable and secure. (The Wing has a very low profile so it was not visible under my clothing.)

I also tried out the Band which has a stretchable inner pocket that's also supposed to accommodate the portfolio with your passport and valuables. However, no matter how much I stretched and tugged, I couldn't get the portfolio or the passport by itself into the narrow pocket. The portfolio just is too wide to fit into this pocket. No worries, though, because I simply put my rolled up bills and credit cards in a small zip lock and easily folded it into the pocket of the Body Band, which you wear with the pocket towards the back of your hips. It was plenty comfortable with its one-size fits all, up to size 10 for both bands. (At this time, these only comes in black but other colors probably will be available down the road.)

Of course, both the Band and the Wing are meant to hold items that you won't have to access during the day. They're for close-to-the-body safe keeping. It's not like you're going to peel back your shirt to access your passport at customs, or lift up your skirt every time you need money to make a purchase.

I think Dovetail Travel in Peace is a great idea for female travelers who need to keep valuables secure no matter what. And, at the price of $48 for the set, it's definitely worth it.

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An Eco-Conscious Coffee Plantation in Mexico

Whenever I walk into a Starbucks - which is as infrequent as possible - I often wonder why they can't make a good cup of coffee. (Obviously, I'm in the minority considering their huge sales figures and the number of stores that pop up on every other corner in Manhattan where customers flock to the counter for high-fat frappuccinos and overly sweet caramel macchiatos.) But, as a coffee lover, I'm always determined to find the perfect cup. So, it was to my delight when I spent several days at the Argovia Finca Resort, a sustainable and organic coffee plantation in the mountains of Mexico's Chiapas province.

I just wrote about my stay at Argovia for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel. After reading this, you'll never wonder again what makes a great cup of coffee. (It takes a lot of care, work, knowledge, and thoughtfulness, qualities that are in abundance at this coffee plantation.)

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A Penthouse Stay in New York City

As I writer, I'm fairly particular about what venues spur my creativity. My biggest necessity is natural light, and lots of it. In the summer, when I work outside on the waterfront in Battery Park City, light clearly isn't a problem. But, the rest of the year, abundant sunlight streaming into my writing venues, whether coffee shops or public atria, is a precious commodity in New York City. Since I live in a small and, I might add, dark dwelling in Queens, a NYC suburb, I'm not one to work at home. Plus, sometimes I prefer to work into the wee hours of the morning while remaining free of the normal house-bound distractions. That's why I recently chose a  mid-week getaway in the Penthouse Suite at the Gracie Inn Hotel on the Upper East Side.

Housed in a century-old building, the five-floor Gracie Inn offers guests a choice of 13 different rooms. And, though a penthouse sounds like it would come with an astronomical price tag, interestingly, this duplex suite accommodates six people. And, with nightly rates of $300 to $400, that's fairly economical, given that it's in Manhattan where ordinary rooms can go for at least that price; it's got a prime Upper East Side location that's way more tranquil than New York's prime tourist neighborhoods; and, most importantly for me, my duplex is designed with a sun room and the outdoor terrace on the upper floor.  Light poured in through the sun room's immense window that looked out to the terrace, the two venues where I spent most of my time. I chose the perfect time for my writer's retreat: the winter weather was unseasonably mild at 67°F. (I also made good use of the teal-hued hot tub set just below another window that provided light galore.) Though the lower level was equipped with a kitchenette, living room and bedroom, I found the low natural light conditions on that floor not to my liking. 

I checked out some of the other rooms in the inn and found that those facing the street also had some acceptable natural light, while those accommodations looking out to the rear were quite dark. Of course, many people are unaffected by somber lighting conditions, some even prefer it.

Though I took some creative breaks to explore my Upper East Side neighborhood, if you preferred to avoid leaving your room, the Gracie Inn makes it easy given that breakfast is served in bed. Each guest can choose four items from the menu, which includes juices, toast, yogurt, bagels, croissants, fruit and cereal. However, because I try to eat healthfully, which means opting for low-fat dining, I would've preferred if non-fat yogurt, skim milk and whole grain muffins were on the menu. 

Another caveat worth mentioning is that, during my stay, I found a number of maintenance issues, including the on again-off again (more off than on) WiFi, the ultra-loose shower head, the blinds that fell off the window in the bedroom on the lower level when I attempted to raise them, the satellite TV connection that also was on again-off again (though there are two plasma screen TVs and only the one on the lower floor was on the fritz), and some curious sooty substance in the hot tub (which didn't stop me from luxuriating in it after I flooded it with running water and soap).

In my book, the Gracie Inn Hotel is a laid-back, low-key bargain. Don't expect luxe furnishings or amenities. The shampoo and soaps are all basic brands and many of the furnishings are antiques from the original apartments in this building. But, because of this sun-filled penthouse and the inn's location in a trendy Manhattan neighborhood, I would gladly stay here again.

When I dragged myself away from my perch in the late afternoon, I walked one block to the East River Greenway. Paralleling the water, the paved path attracts walkers, runners, and bladers or those who just want to lounge on the myriad riverfront benches. The most refreshing section passes Carl Schurz Park, a sprawling green space with winding paths, dense patches of woodland, stone stairways leading to peaceful alcoves and spacious lawns. After jogging north, I retraced my path, cutting into the park that's home to the Mayor's official residence, Gracie Mansion. Mayor Michael Bloomberg never moved into Gracie Mansion -- though he lives on the Upper East Side -- but it's open for tours of the canary-yellow-painted building on most Wednesdays.

On my way back to the Gracie Inn, I found a new spot for wine tasting, Vino-Versity. Part wine shop, part wine school, it's set up to educate the consumer on the intricacies of viticulture in a fun, light and approachable way. They usually offer up to five wines to taste. (I sampled the Santa Julia Chardonnay from Argentina, which had melon notes and another Argentinean variety, Cuma Torrontes, that had a hint of citrus and is said to go well with guacamole.) Every day of the week they hold classes and tasting events with a different theme. Saturday is Bubbles, Bubbles Everywhere. In other words, you'll learn the difference between Prosecco and Cava, while Fridays is The Spiritual Experience where you'll compare artisan liquors.

My next stop was for take-out dinner at Chennai, an Indian restaurant where, for $15, you get a choice of appetizers (I opted for the vegetable samosa) and an entree (I chose the mangalorean, a spicy chicken with green chilies, ginger and fresh curry leaves). Back at the inn, my terrace made for a perfect venue for dining on this flavorful cuisine as the sun slowly set.

I still had the whole night ahead of me to work on some creative brainstorming while sipping wine and lounging in the hot tub.

continue reading "A Penthouse Stay in New York City"

Denmark: A Cyclist's Paradise

When I travel the world, I have a preference for active travel, whether hiking, walking, bicycling or Nordic skiing, to name a few. It's not only a way to acquire an intimate contact with the land and its people, but I can stay in shape while having fun doing it. So, with the rising obesity rates in the U.S. -- among children, the obesity rates have tripled; and among adults, almost 40% are considered obese -- I wonder how some countries get their citizens to work out. Most notably I'm thinking about Denmark. Sure, when we think bicycle-friendly countries, The Netherlands always come to mind. But, in fact, after Holland, Denmark has the next highest rates of cycling in the world. I've bicycled all over Denmark and have found it a pleasure to ride in a country where the bike is king. I had little worry that a car would slam into me from the rear or cut in front of me as it made a right turn. I had no problems taking my bike on the trains nor any problem navigating Copenhagen's city center. Dedicated bike trails network across the country that has the most cyclists in not just Copenhagen but also Denmark's two other big cities: Odense and Aarhus. For example, Denmark is networked with over 6,000 miles of cycle routes and the city of Odense is covered with some 300 miles of bike paths. In Copenhagen, some 36% of people get to work by bicycle, compared with 29% by car and 28% by public transportation.

So what is Denmark doing right and what are we doing wrong? Some would say that Denmark has such a small population that it's easier to get people to bicycle. Yet, even in cities, like New York City where I live, cycling is not all the rage. And, it's hardly safe. In fact, I have long stopped biking in Manhattan because of near collisions with cars, trucks and taxis. The bike lanes are not separated from traffic, which means anything goes. (Cars typically park or disgorge their passengers in bike lanes.) It's not easy to park your bike safely should you want to shop, nor can you easily find a place to pump up your tires, grab a drink of water from a fountain or find a bathroom that a cyclist can easily drop by.

Then there's the problem with the out-of-control cyclists, most notably bike messengers or delivery people who ride on sidewalks or the wrong way on streets, or run the red lights (just as many cars do) which has resulted in a significant number of pedestrian accidents.

And, of course, there are plenty of cities in the U.S. -- Tampa, Florida, for one -- where cars rule and where even pedestrians take a risk crossing the street. No wonder it's hard to get people bicycling.

In Denmark, it's not just kids; people in all age groups cycle, from young to old. And they don't just cycle for pleasure. It's a way of life, whether they're going shopping or heading to work. And, the Danes don't cycle just because it's healthy or because it's good for the environment. Rather, getting somewhere by bicycle is faster and more fun than doing so by another method.  Denmark has realized that cities that are bicycle friendly are people friendly and infrastructure that encourages this also encourages social interaction among its citizens, benefits the economy because workers are not stuck in traffic jams, and makes for a more attractive urban environment.

 Here are some things you'll find in Copenhagen, Odense, and/or Aarhus, in particular, that encourage cycling:

1. Bicycle parking facilities are conveniently located near shops/main train stations; are covered; well lighted; have video surveillance cameras as well as bathrooms, water fountains and air pumps.

2. Bicycle racks are also conveniently located, with some installed beside kindergartens. 

3. At intersections, bike lanes are painted with a bright blue bike icon to alert motorists.

4. Children not only learn how to ride a bike before first grade but safe cycling is part of some school curricula.

5. Bike lanes are preferentially de-iced and cleared of snow so that the citizens can bicycle in the winter.

6. Trouble-shooters are employed to traverse bike lanes and determine and report if there are potholes or other surface problems.

7. Cycling marketing/promotional campaigns are not just about print and television ads, but rather are quite innovative involving bike touring programs for seniors, having parents test out bike trails to haul their kids, partnering with businesses by giving them a fleet of bicycles their employees can use during the day for short business treks, giving out complementary bicycle lights that don't use batteries as well as seat covers and water bottles.

8. Copenhagen has an interesting way of dealing with people who illegally park their bicycle: The city employs what's referred to as Bike Butlers who pump up the tires and oil the chain of the offending bicycle. (It's seems to have been more successful than other punitive actions.)

9. Some traffic lights are timed to coordinate with the speed of cyclists, rather than cars, and there may be a special bike traffic light.

10. A GPS system is being utilized so that a stolen bicycle can be tracked.

11. Copenhagen has plans for bike-through shopping facilities; a new bike sharing program; more and wider cycle paths, including those where the car stop white line is way behind the cyclist which is favored when the light turns green.

12. Denmark promotes cycling by integrating the cooperation of governmental and non-governmental agencies and organizations as well as private companies. It works because everyone knows that a city that  respects their cyclists and where cyclists respect other citizens is a city that's more livable for all.

continue reading "Denmark: A Cyclist's Paradise"