My Favorite Car-Free Islands in Europe

Who doesn't love islands? But I'm quite particular, favoring those that harken to an earlier time, when cars didn't exist as the primary means of transportation. Yes, I search out car-free islands because it's these landscapes where I can feel free to explore in a pollution free environment, without the squealing of brakes or the honking of horns, where I can depend on human-powered locomotion to visit historic sites or just peacefully prowl around coves, hamlets and green spaces. You never know what you'll discover when you're not in a rush.

I recently wrote an article for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Traveler  on my favorite car-free islands in Europe.

Comino Island - Photo by Bill Kasman, Flickr

These are some of my finds on my top five:

• Buyukada, Turkey Grand villas, some with gingerbread detailing, line the lanes that weave down to the south end of the island, which is largely draped in emerald hues from dense pine forests.
•  Hydra, Greece - A two-hour climb brings hikers to the Monastery of Prophet Elias that hovers above the capital. A much shorter jaunt is the coastal walk to Vlychos Beach, an ideal destination for families.

•  Veliki Brijun, Brijuni National Park, Croatia - Dinosaur footprints, such as the imprint of large carnivores similar to Theropods, have been discovered all over the island.

•  Ile d'aix, France - The northeast portion is especially lovely, blanketed with thick pinewoods and rimmed with two jewels: Baby Beach and Yellow Sands Beach. 

•  Comino Island, Malta - Hiking through the wildflower-speckled landscape, a path courses to an isolated, rubble-ridden area, a perfect setting for the 17th century St. Mary's Tower that withstood sieges far beyond what the archipelago's other towers tolerated.

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European Cemeteries That Resemble Botanical Gardens

It's a shame that cemeteries are typically associated with the macabre, where supernatural influences are ever present. On many of my travels, I've come to appreciate cemeteries as open-air museums and botanical gardens. I chose to visit one treasured cemetery in Lisbon, Reykjavik, Valletta, Zagreb and Helsinki for what they each could tell me about indigenous plants, renowned artists, notable politicians, and much more. Find out what I discovered about botany, architecture, and sociology in this article on the loveliest European cemeteries that I recently wrote for National Geographic Traveler - Intelligent Travel.

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Unique Treks in Malta

When I am traveling to a destination for the first time, in order to really get a feel for the land and its people, I like to hit the road. That means taking it slowly, often by walking the urban streets and taking to the nearby trails in the surrounding landscapes.



That's what I did on my trip to Malta where I explored the capital city of Valletta, a UNESCO World Heritage site as well as the greener and more laid-back island of Gozo, the second of the three inhabited isles in this archipelago. And, thanks to the insights of Culture3Sixty, a bespoke travel company, I was able to avoid all the usual well-trodden sights, in favor of the hidden treasures I crave.

I recently wrote about my unique walking adventures in Malta for National Geographic Traveler's Intelligent Travel blog. Among my three treks, I checked out a tour that put me in touch with the ghostly inhabitants of Valletta, walked through a verdant landscape to see some unique works of art thanks to Art Walks led by artist Hermine Sammut and wandered along a golden moonscape to discover how the locals still gather sea salt.

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Tracking Birds in Malta

I wouldn't call myself a hardcore bird watcher, but I'm definitely a tree hugger. So when I found out that hunters in Malta target song birds and endangered feathered creatures, I couldn't have been more shocked. Nonetheless, on my recent trip to Malta, not only did I get a chance to interview the intrepid campaign coordinator at the conservation group BirdLife Malta, but I also took a guided stroll through one of the country's leafy reserves that goes out of its way to protect migratory birds as well as a host of endangered plants.

I recently wrote about my bird-related adventures in Malta for National Geographic Traveler's Intelligent Travel blog.

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Making the Most in Malta

As far as travel styles go, I'm the compulsive and meticulous planner who likes to pack in as many --usually off-the-beaten-track or, at least, less touristy -- experiences as possible into each and every day of my trip. And finding a bespoke tour operator who listens to the needs of the client and has an insider knowledge of the destination makes the planning all the easier.

I don't always seek out this help, but, for a number of logistic reasons, I did in the case of Malta, where I wanted to go beyond the many historic monuments that occupy so much tourist attention. I was lucky when Jessica Colley contacted me on twitter and gave me a heads up on Trevor Zahar and Natasha Borg, co-owners of Culture3Sixty. No matter your interest, whether it’s focused on diving, sailing or other sports; luxury oriented with visits to spas; or more nature based, they can dig up the perfect locales, as they did for me.


This is a micro sampling of what Culture3Sixty arranged for me:

• tours of wineries for tastings and tours, such as the Meridiana Wine Estate, which is planted on the original British military airfield. In fact the original control tower still stands, but now it houses a laboratory. Designed as an old Malta country residence, the winery allowed me to taste a crisp 2009 Chardonnay, and a bright berry Cabernet and Merlot blend with just a hint of oak.

• visits to gardens, such as the San Anton Gardens that were originally laid out by Grand Master Antoine de Paule of the Knights of Malta as his private residence. (As I mentioned in a previous post, so much for the vows of poverty.) These gardens are so lavish and they were such the talk of the town at that time that they’re said to have inspired Versailles. With tinkling fountains, elegant statuary, foliage from around the world and peacocks strutting about, San Anton is a must-see for garden lovers.

• restaurant reservations, such as Fra Giuseppe in the town of Balzan. Housed in an 18th century building, the restaurant stocks some 200 bottles of wine from all over the world. Sitting in a wee stone room where the walls are hung with contemporary paintings, I sampled ftira, a ring-shaped Maltese bread that’s somewhat crunchy with a soft interior and filled with sun-dried tomatoes, olives and capers.

Whether venturing down narrow cobbled lanes in the capital city of Valletta or wandering around the less visited locales in the central part of the country, you'll find Malta restaurants that radiate authenticity.

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A Palatial Garden in Malta

I didn't have the chance to stay in a palace on my recent trip to Malta. But I had the next best thing: an afternoon in the expansive Baroque gardens of Palazzo Parisio. In the town of Naxxar with its atmospheric narrow lanes, many decorated with potted plants and flowers, the palace dates from the time of the Knights of Malta. In fact, it was their holiday house. (So much for the vows of poverty that they were required to take.) And, though the ultra-ornate rooms lined with Carrera marble and hung with Caravaggio paintings are plenty striking, I was most struck by the serenity and natural beauty of the well-tended gardens. (I am a huge park and garden buff, as you all know.) And, though checking out gardens in the heat of August hardly sounds delightful, it is in Malta and especially in the gardens of the palace where I relished in the sight of colorful oleander, bougainvillea and hibiscus blooms as well as roses and the numerous species of palms -- a couple are said to be some 200 years old -- as well as citrus trees and many others. (There are also some private side gardens where the restaurant grows herbs and vegetables for items on the menu.)

But even if you're hardly the garden lover, you'll enjoy just hanging out pre- or post-lunch on one of the many lounge chairs set on the grassy lawn or in a comfy sofa with a drink in hand in the canopied gazebo. I spent hours just doing this.

My video shows some of the tempting garden lounge possibilities.



Anyone who's planning a wedding should take note. This is a most romantic venue for the ceremony.

And, because I couldn't tear myself away from this verdancy, I lunched outdoors under a canopy at the palace's restaurant, Caffe Luna. The mostly Mediterranean menu includes local ingredients, especially at the lunch hour. I found the best choice was the assorted tea sandwiches that included chicken with chutney, and cream cheese with arugula and chives. And though these were most flavorful and filling, the desserts were a high point. I chose the signature cake: a slice of carrot with pineaplle and walnuts plus a dish of lemon granita. What could be more refreshing?

The only thing I missed was High Tea in the garden -- it's considered too hot in August for this service . Ah, another reason to return.

Romantic Vacation

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Surprising Finds on Comino Island in Malta

I’m always a little skeptical when I plan a trip and people, whether friends or locals, tell me that I should reconsider going or staying there. That’s what happened recently when I planned to stay two nights on Comino Island, the smallest of the three Maltese Islands.


I was told that the Comino Hotel -- the only accommodation on the wee island that measures about 3.5 square km -- is falling apart, literally. That this car-free island is a complete snore with basically nothing to do. In fact, locals on the main island of Malta and the middle-sized greener island of Gozo said I could walk the entire circumference of Comino in two hours. After that and a swim in the pristine waters of the Blue Lagoon, I should take the next ferry back to Gozo.(Comino is snuggled in the channel between Malta and Gozo.)

Needless to say, after a week of hearing these comments, I was reconsidering my two night stay on Comino that has a year-round population of four people. Good thing I didn’t change my plans because neither the friendly, charming, comfortable hotel nor the unspoiled island lived up to the bad reputation I was prepared for. In fact, quite the opposite. After spending two activity-laden days and eating some very yummie food at the hotel, I wished I had a third day just to relax, reading a book while gazing at the waterways or sitting beside a tidal pool or cove.

Here’s what I found on Comino, an island that’s definitely worth a two and maybe a three-day visit if you really want to get caught up in nature and history while living the very low-key, laid-back life.

1. Yes, the Comino Hotel does feel stuck in the 1960s and the interior does need some work. But it’s not falling apart, by any means. In fact, my room #297 had perfect views of San Nicklaw Bay where I could sit on the tiny balcony and watch the sunrise every morning. And given that this hotel is an amazing deal considering the seaside location and that the staff couldn't do enough for its guests, I overlooked the tired and sometimes tattered interior.

2. There are no restaurants on the island -- we’re talking a desolate island, remember -- except for the one at the Comino Hotel and the truck kiosks that sell burgers and such beside the tourist laden Blue Lagoon. But that worked out great because the hotel’s extensive dinner buffet was fresh with something for all palates. For dinner, these were some of my favorite buffet items: salads, including cucumber and mint, octopus, and baby shrimp with cauliflower; fried calamari; roast turkey with mustard/sage gravy; vegetable quiche, cream of pumpkin soup, a cheese platter that included the local gbejniet cheese that’s either served fresh or coated in black pepper, fresh fruits, and some scrumptious desserts: lemon mousse and a chocolate layer cake. (It’s a good thing I was walking five hours a day to burn off all these calories.)

3. The first day I walked almost five hours along the island’s network of dirt roads and paths passing fragrant wild thyme, blooming oleander and caper bushes, clumps of pines and a scattering of orchards. Walking along the clifftops and headlands, I spied curious offshore islets with odd erosion holes that gave you a glimpse of the sea on the other side.
4. St. Mary’s Tower, a 17th century watchtower build by the Knights of St. James, makes for an interesting visit where you can spot the well where the knights would gather their water and the basement that was once accessed by a long rope ladder. Once I crossed the footbridge, I prowled around this tower that that was built to protect the channel from ship piracy. The rooftop provides panoramic views of the island from this almost 300-foot-tall perch.

5. Carrying lunch from the hotel that consisted of a sandwich made of thick Maltese ftira bread filled with tuna, olives, onions, capers and tomatoes, I found a perfect place for a much-needed shady picnic: the patio of the island’s old isolation hospital. (This sprawling building is where the island's four residents live, but one of them saw me approaching and gave me the go ahead to lunch in the shade.)

6. I checked out the iridescent azure-toned Blue Lagoon at 7:30 am knowing that it would become packed with lounge chairs and umbrellas, starting at 8 am. The lazy atmosphere with nary a sound beyond the crashing waves, completely transforms to a chaotic atmosphere the rest of the day until the last boats depart late in the day. Each morning, I took the short walk here before breakfast to enjoy the solitude.

7. Instead of the Blue Lagoon, I visited a cove that sees few if any visitors: Smuggler’s Cove on the South Channel. It requires a longer walk and there are no kiosks, boats or lounge chairs to rent. What you do find are pristine tidal pools where you could sit and watch crustaceans and fish swim around your toes. Good swimmers can also enjoy the deep cool waters offshore.

8. The only kiosk at the Blue Lagoon that’s worth visiting is a small stand selling fresh fruits, including prickly pear cactus. One day I lunched here on nectarines, watermelon, prickly pear and yogurt while sitting under the kiosk’s expansive umbrella.

9. Two people told me about St. Mary’s Caves that are accessible not just by sea but also by foot. It took three tries wandering down several paths along the cliff front to find the massive cave complex that you can simply walk into and swim in a calm pool of seawater. (I’m told that the Count of Monte Cristo was filmed here.)

10. On my second full day on the island, I walked all the paths I missed the first day and found an old hilltop cemetery, St. Mary’s Bay that’s much more relaxed than the Blue Lagoon, lush valleys that are still verdant despite the tempertures, and a small chapel ringed by a stone wall and tall conifer trees that also provide some much needed shade and a bit of a breeze.

11. Other activities available from the hotel include aromatherapy massages, canoe or windsurf rental, diving -- and even mountain bike rental. The hotel also offers two outdoor swimming pools (one is for children) and two small strips of golden sand.

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