A Lithuanian SeaScape

Imagine a ribbon of land that's a mere 1,300 feet wide at its narrowest. A land that stretches some 60 miles (one half in Lithuania and the other half in Russia). with a sandy shore where tall dunes are topped with sea grass, roses and sea sicily, while the interior is thick with pine forests. No hotels cluster along the beachfront where development is banned. Welcome to the Curonian Spit that's cradled between an eponymous lagoon and the Baltic Sea. This wild landscape -- it's a national park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site -- makes for an idyllic venue for bicycling, which is why I stepped ashore with bike in tow.

A ferry regularly runs back and forth between Klaipeda, Lithuania's port city, and Smiltyne, one of the handful of settlements on the Lithuanian side. From there, a network of bike paths thread along the shore and the interior where bird sounds from blackbirds, chat finches and other species are abundant. In fact, bird whistles, chirps and tweets are about the only sounds ringing through the forests. Beyond the towering sycamore, willow, birch and aleppo pine trees, a white tent comes into view; it's a snack bar for the nearby beach. From here, I climb the steps that course over the dunes and down to the wide stretch of white sand. I'm alone because it's only 11 am. This beach bears the sign Bendras, which means it's a general (non-nudist) beach. But the spit has nudist beaches as well that are signed Vyru (male), Moteru (female), or nudism for everyone (Nudista).

It's quite common for Lithuanians who crave nature to cycle the Curonian Spit after work or to bring a blanket and picnic and settle on one of the beaches even in the fall. But it also makes for a relaxing weekend -- there are a number of accommodations available, including Hotel Viesbutis, which is sited very close to the ferry.

Imagine sands sweeping across the villages on this strip of land to the point that they bury the houses. That's what happened in the 18th century -- the villagers were, obviously, forced to relocate. And this is why dense conifer forests now dominate this landscape. (The locals planted them to make up for the rampant deforestation and to reduce the land erosion.)

Sure, cars do roll down the roads, but I see few of them as I peddle past myriad side trails leading, of course, to more tempting sands. I stop at another beach where I spy three local men along the shore with large nets. If you think they're fishing you'd be wrong. They're sifting for chunks of amber, the fossilized resin of conifers and a valuable commodity that this area has long been known for. As I stroll the beachfront, I stop and check out the sand, finding a handful of amber grains. (I'm told that a violent storm the night before is the reason why the amber is especially plentiful.)

But the ferry waits so it's back on the bicycle, passing the Sea Museum and Dolphinarium, several old fishing boats from the mid-1900s as well as a collection of traditional 19th century farm structures. Once on board, I gaze at the receeding shore and imagine what my next trip will reveal. I plan to spend the weekend, traversing the bike paths from village to village, visiting the museums, and maybe collecting some larger chunks of amber.

 

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Luxembourg: 15 Myths

What do you know about Luxembourg? If you're like most of the people I recently spoke with, you probably haven't ever visited this petite country (it's barely the size of Rhode Island) that's bordered by France, Germany and Belgium. And, also like most everyone I polled recently, not only have you not thought about visiting Luxembourg, but you probably haven't given this country a second thought. And, yet, everyone I asked about Luxembourg City's night life, culinary scene, topography and more had an opinion, that just wasn't based on facts. Many thought that this center of finance was plenty boring. (It's not.) That it's a wide expanse of flat land. (Hardly.) And that the cuisine is so dominated by rich, meat-laden meals that it's a vegetarian's nightmare. (Wrong, again.)

Check out my article on 15 Myths About Luxembourg that just appeared in the Huffington Post. It'll give you a whole new perspective on this vibrant country. So much so, that you might want to just jump on the next plane bound for Luxembourg City. Just remember, even three days -- the number of days I spent in the capital -- isn't long enough.

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A Vibrant Restaurant (and Restaurant Owner) In Luxembourg

Even if you're not a committed vegetarian, you'll be seduced by the riot of color on the walls, the ceiling and on your plate at Mesa Verde in Luxembourg City. (The menu includes salmon teriyaki, curried tofu, and a mixed salad with tempura prawns) Almost every surface of the interior is adorned with colorful murals, including one displaying myriad fanciful sea creatures. Many hued butterflies flit across the ceiling and paper lanterns in all shapes and sizes glow from their lofty perches. One resembles a hot air balloon, another a pumpkin. In the back of the restaurant, a mosaic sculpture with a likeness to tree roots stands near a lantern shaped like an insect pupa with wings.

Quite a curious décor, but no more curious than the owner's resume. Lucien Elsen is a world traveler, trained chef, party planner and professional clown. And I was lucky to spend an hour with him one morning at his favorite cafe in Luxembourg City where we sipped lattes and nibbled on warm croissants.

It seems that you're a major multitasker. You have a lot going on. How do you get inspired?

I was born on a beautiful farm and I would go out into the forest to discover things. Now, every day I go into the forest. It's like brushing my teeth. I camp, I get ideas, and I ground myself.

How did you become interested in cooking?

Cooking was my first passion.  I wanted to be a macrobiotic chef. So I traveled the world. I'd hitchhike around and worked for room and board. I was a dishwasher for a year in Japan but you learn by watching.

Your staff has been with you for awhile. Why are they so dedicated?

At Mesa Verde, I was originally the cook and I trained everyone there. The people who work there feel it's our restaurant. I met the manager in India. And when I go back there, I see his family's house, which is there because of my restaurant. It's all connected.

I'm told that you organize some amazing parties, including street parties. How did that come about?

I had lived in San Francisco where I did food styling. But I couldn't continue to do that job. It was so fake. They threw away so much food. (I would give it to the homeless.) But, when I returned to Luxembourg City, I found it a bit boring. I had a club because I wanted to bring people together. (It was one of the best clubs in town.) I also like street life – open air events – because I like when energy comes together. So I also organized an outdoor party, and 100 people showed up. The police said I couldn't do that. But I held it again the following year and this time 1,500 people showed up. And the mayor liked it. Each year it grew. It was a way for me to do something for everyone. Four times a year I hold a big party in Mesa Verde, including on New Years and National Day. Every Saturday next to Mesa Verde I have outdoor music. It's free. It becomes a meeting place with good music. I'm a connector.

You certainly have a diverse background. But how does being a clown figure into this whole picture?

I went to Berlin to learn script writing but someone told me about a clown school in Ibiza. That's where I also studied to be a healer. A clown is about truth. People are afraid of clowns because the clown goes to the truth and people don't want to hear that. My current play is about an apocalypse. At the end of it, kids are laughing, the women are crying, and the men say what the f*** just happened. Cooking is something you do with your heart and you transmit those feelings to people. A cook touches them with emotions. But so does a clown, and that's the connection.

Mesa Verde radiates an appealing sense of vibrancy. How do you achieve that?

At Mesa Verde, I bring my energy to the restaurant, which is a micro-cosmos.  Aside from making love, cooking is the most intimate experience you can have with a person. I can look at a sandwich somewhere and I see that there's no love in that sandwich. I believe you should treat a salad like a flower you would offer a loved one. You care for it. Every leaf has a different texture. It's like painting. You're making a picture.

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My Love Affair With Reykjavik

Sure, Iceland is plenty exotic but I don't think most of my friends quite understand why I have long fallen in love with its petite capital city, Reykjavik. Maybe it's because in this land of fire and ice I can hang out at the beach in July and plop into a hot tub that's set just offshore. Or maybe it's because their eclectic designers satisfy my desire for wild, wacky, yet stylish, accoutrements, such as a handbag fashioned from dried codfish skin. It might have something to do with the fact that I enjoy strolling into coffee shops that have a sense of character, unlike the cookie-cutter Starbucks that have blossomed all over most major cities. Or perhaps it's because even their new concert hall, Harpa, allows me to have an intimate connection with the mountain and sea scapes beyond.

If you're interested in why I have a love affair with Reykjavik, check out the interview I did with Maria and Anthony Russo, founders of the online magazine, The Culture-Ist. You'll find plenty of travel tips that might surprise even those of you who are Reykjavik savvy.

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Turtles & Tranquility in Dominica

As a native New Yorker, I'm as Type A as they come.  So, when I select a resort, I'm content when I'm got a mass of activities to choose from. And, as a committed tree hugger, I'm also on the lookout for venues that are eco-oriented and laden with verdant foliage. Oh, and I forgot to mention, that I'm also a foodie, so the cuisine should be tempting and healthy. There should be some fine wines available as well as a spa (even a small one) that offers vigorous massages to help me recoup from strenuous hikes and a salt-water, chlorine-free swimming pool.  But, I prefer a a resort that doesn't exude attitude, if you know what I mean. The pretension factor should be low or non-existent. Yes, I've got a lot of criteria when judging a great resort.  And, I found that at the Rosalie Bay Resort in Dominica that had the unique advantage of offering guests the ability to watch endangered sea turltes migrating from the sea, preparing a nest and laying dozens of perfectly round white eggs.

My article for the Huffington Post describes why this resort will satisfy tree huggers, vegetarians, adventure seekers, oenophiles, foodies or those just seeking a tranquil, easy-going resort alike but also where attitude just doesn't come into play.

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Radio Show: Colombia: Who Said It's All About Crime?

Why would I venture to Colombia? Because everyone told me not to go. And, after I recently published an article in the Huffington Post on 20 reasons to visit Colombia -- there were actually many more but I decided to limit it to 20 -- my friends are now rethinking whether Colombia should be on their list of top places to go. In fact, many of the comments reflect a delight in finally being able to read an article that shows off the country's first-rate side.

Below is my interview with Terry Boyd at KPAM 860 radio in Portland, Oregon, where I discuss why we need to look at Colombia beyond the activities we typically associate with this country, namely drug trafficking, kidnapping, and terrorism. If you love coffee, you'll definitely want to listen in.



   

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Gear Review: A Cool Icelandic Company

Most anyone who visits Reykjavik ends up buying some piece of high-tech outwear or other clothing item from 66°NORTH, a well respected company that produces, everything from shells and parkas to thermal underwear, scarves and hats. But, my favorite Icelandic high-tech company is Cintamani. It started with finding their website before my first trip to Iceland several years ago and noting it had a bit of a sense of fancy. Then, once I visited the store, I found that I was captured not just by their icon, which, resembling a sun with solar flares, seemed to embody this land of fire and ice, but also by the clothing that was light, comfortable, warm and well designed.

Oddly enough, I've asked several people recently who are very gear savvy about Cintamani and none of them have heard of it. Unlike 66°NORTH, which can be found in stores across the U.S., I've only found Cintamani in Iceland or online. Too bad because this is a high performance product that looks great.

 

I opted to test out the Embla, an ultra-light, zippered jacket. It's constructed of Technopile, which is a synthetic fleece that wicks away sweat, is breathable, dries quickly and feels very plush. It doesn't pill with use. And, even better, I wear this not only on the trail but also during the day by pairing it with a dress or skirt. It's comfortable in the winter when layered over a Merino wool (which I prefer) sweater, but I'm also wearing it in the spring now as my sole jacket over a T-shirt or blouse. If the day becomes too warm, I just tie it around my waist or roll it up into my small bag -- it takes up little room and the weight in my bag is barely noticeable. Plus, if I end up in a super air-conditioned store or movie theater, the Embla comes to the rescue.

 It's got two zippered side pockets that come in handy for a wallet or just keys and loose change.  The neck comes up relatively high to keep me warm if there's a cold breeze. The price, though, is hardly for the budget minded. The Embla retains for upwards of $140 or so. In my view, though, it's well worth it. And, like with the Nau product I just reviewed, the Embla is coming with me on my trip to Portugal and Luxembourg. In fact, I'll be wearing it on the plane too. (It looks like it might also double as a nice pillow or lumbar support.)

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Gear Review: Eco-Friendly + Stylish Clothing

Yes, I'm a gear head, especially when it concerns clothing. I'm always on the lookout for very wearable, practical, yet stylish clothing that packs well, dries quickly and is eco-friendly on top of it.  I just found such a clothing manufacturer, Nau, when I was browsing recently in REI in New York City.  Nau's high-tech, performance-based products are minimalist, light and fashionable. That's a lot to expect from a dress that I tested out, the Chrysalis, aptly named considering it transforms from a light, water-repellent, mid-thigh-length shell (that I wore as a long-sleeve dress in cool weather atop a black SmartWool sweater and black leggings) to a sleeveless dress with a hoodie.

 The Chrysalis is feather light and, though it looks quite simple, when I wore it all over New York City, it elicited comments from fashion-conscious and fellow gear heads alike. The craftsmanship is apparent as is the appealing silhouette. No matter if it was a breezy, chilly, rainy or sun-filled day (or all of these weather conditions in a single day as Spring in New York City tends to be quite fickle), the Chrysalis was oh-so-comfortable and adaptable.

This dress is made of 100% recycled polyester with an added water repellent finish. It's got two cute ties on the waist that you can cinch, as well as two deep front pockets, and a flattering back pleat. Plus, the hoodie converts to a lovely shawl collar. The construction easily allows the Chrysalis to go from day to night, from the bike path to the bar.

One day, I sat down to a meeting with a colleague who brought along her toddler. Within moments, her three-year-old proceeded to spill an entire glass of chocolate milk on my Chrysalis. I was unfazed, as I watched the milk bead up and blotted up the remaining liquid with a paper towel, leaving the Chrysalis fresh and unstained.

On top of all this, Nau's eco-credentials are coherent with my sensibilities: the company has a respect for nature, is a proponent of bicycle advocacy and hugs trees as much as I do. The organizations they've partnered with include Mercy Corps that delivers relief to communities affected by disaster or civil unrest; Ashoka that brings together investors, entrepreneurs and governments to initiate social change; and The Bikes Belong Foundation that has the goal of making the U.S. are more bike-friendly country.

I'm off to Portugal and Luxembourg this week and I'm wearing the Nau Chrysalis on the plane. Since I don't check luggage and I need clothing items that does double or triple duty, this will be my new favorite piece.

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Colombia Beyond the Myths

When I tell friends I'm about to take off on a new adventure, if I happen to be traveling to Hawaii, the Caribbean, Spain, Chile or dozens of other places around the world, often the response is, "Oh, can you take me in your backpack?" That's not the response I got when I told friends and colleagues that I was venturing to Colombia. Instead, I heard, "Oh, be careful." "Don't go out at night." "You're not going alone, are you?" "Wow. Colombia. Well, email me that you're safe."

Even when I returned and told of the expansive nature preserves, the hot nightlife in Bogota, the fine restaurants with wines from around the world, the boutique hotels with spas, and quaint colonial villages paved with cobblestones, the responses were, "Sounds nice. Glad you didn't get kidnapped." Poor Colombia. There's so much beauty and culture that most people are missing because they continue to believe that terrorists, thieves, drug lords and kidnappers are lurking around every corner.

 My article for the Huffington Post describes 20 of the treasures I found on my recent trip to Colombia. And, as we all know, it's the people you encounter that can make or break a trip. In Colombia, I was surprised to find so many people who were delighted that someone from New York came all the way to their country.

And, if you don't feel like visiting Colombia alone, then check out Voyage Colombia, a company I used to help me plan this trip. They'll set up your itinerary based on your interests, whether it's the culinary scene or more nature based, and also provide an English-speaking guide and/or a driver that will be flexible, informative, helpful and absolutely interested that you enjoy your stay in Colombia.

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